Hi, I know this has been discussed somewhere before but I cannot seem to find the answer I need. I have an 87 300TDT and have been having trouble starting infrequently. I discovered a pattern which if I park on an incline nose up it will not start, if level or nose down, no problem. I assume this is the lift pump. Can anyone tell me if the lift pump can be rebuilt or is it a replacement only item? Is there a check valve in the system? I read in a post that there was a spring that if stretched would increase lift or pressure but not sure if that refered to the lift pump. Any answers appreciated.

that sounds like a simple air leak.
odds are good that your delivery valve seals are shot. do you have any diesel residue on the IP after a drive?
aside from that, you may have leaking fuel lines letting the fuel drain back into the tank, and filling the lines with air.
before you go to start the car, see if there is fuel in the primary (clear) filter... hope this helps!

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

They have lift pump repair kits for the Older Models. They most likely have them for the newer ones too.
Sounds like a job for Phil or your local Fuel Injection Shop that handles Bosch parts.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Well it is a diesel, there is always crude over it from something. I do not see any fuel leaks anywhere. Not sure how I could track one down in the cluster of lines on the car. The primary filter has fuel in it and it only does it when parked on a hill so that suggests fuel leaking by a seal in the lift pump rather than air wouldn't you think? Could a low pressure electric be used instead of the mechanical one on it?

I have another question, where is the lift pump? There is what I assume a pump on the side of the inj pump with lines going directly to the fuel filter. There is also something else with lines down by the engine mount. What would this be? There are 4-5 lines comming in and out of this thing. I doubt this is the pump as there is no mechanical or electric to run it.
Also I found small fuel leak around the inj pump where the lines go into the pump. There are splines on the nut and the lines go into the top of this. Are there seals that I can change myself or is that something that is trouble to get in to.

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

It's the pump hanging off the driver side of the IP. It's the only pump between the fuel tank and IP.

Fuel thermostat. It routes fuel to a loop exposed to engine coolant. The setpoint is something like 80*C.

Those are the delivery valve holders vstech is talking about. You need a special splined socket to remove the delivery valve holders to replace the delivery valve seals. Not a complicated job but a lot can go wrong if you're not meticulously clean. The delivery valve holder tightening sequence is a critical step. Could also be the injector line fittings are leaking.

Sixto
87 300D

Seems to be coming from under the splined nuts. Could a very, small leak there cause her to loose prime? Doesn't seem possible to me but I guess stranger things have happened.

Where could I get one of those wrenches?

The splined socket can be obtained from Phil @ fastlane,a dealer, Hazet, Baum, Etc.There may even be one in the tool rental program.

First, you must clean the outside of the Injection Pump -Surgically Clean-
(AND observe the same cleanliness throughout the procedure) If you do get
ANY Dust,Dirt,assorted grit,Etc. inside the IP You Will Be Very Sorry.

The leak (If you have a delivery valve seal leak) is the rubber O-ring...If you're
"Going in There" might as well get a set of Viton seals from member JA Davis
and never have to mess with a leaky seal again.

The FSM orders you to replace #s 11,14 and 17
( O-ring ,spring and metal crush seal washer)
Do Not Go Any further into the Delivery Valve Than Part Number 17 !

This is Parrot of Doom's excellent DIY of the whole procedure...Study It
Completely before Attempting this Repair! :
OM606 engine (W210 E300D/TD) delivery valve seals

You must be cautioned to MAKE SURE that #20 Does Not Rotate on top of #23 as a result of your endeavors. Those two parts have a "Lapped" aspect
to the mating surfaces of each other...Change that aspect and you change the Delivery Valve's operation.

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Is it necessary to change the spring? This is the first time this was mentioned.