Electrical Problems - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

bio350 · #1 03-21-2009, 12:44 AM

I have spent hours searching the threads and can not find the exact match.

After doing the engine swap on the 92 300SD (140 type), I can not find the culprit for this electrical problem. The passenger rear window will not go up more than 2 inches. When I turn the headlights on, the right turn signal dash indicator stays lit and the right turn bulbs (front and back) stay on. I have no "high beam flash".
I also have a constant "ticking" (I'm convinced it's a time bomb) coming from the fuse box, when I remove the fuse for "Instrument cluster, turn signal/hazard warn. flasher, ceiling light, (steering angle sensor)", the ticking goes away.
Initially I had no parking lights on the passenger side, but after checking the fuses, I found the fuse for "Parking/tail light, right, license plate illumin. +SML" to be blown, it was replace and now everything listed above works. No other fuses found blown. I also checked the fuses in the trunk.
Any help would be great.

I already spent a day repairing vacuum leaks, so now the turbo works and the transmission actually shifts the way it was supposed to.
I had to replace the TARP, luckily I had a spare. The dealer says "You have to buy the entire Injection Pump for $3,800. Because they are calibrated together". I think this was the same dealer that said I could not do the engine swap because the engine and transmission were incompatible. I found it on "Match.com", I know they're compatible.

sixto · #2 03-21-2009, 06:54 PM

I had a gauge cluster go goofy when the round connector wasn't clocked correctly. I don't remember if a 140 has a round connector with many pins.

Have you reset the windows? 140 windows don't work properly after a power cut until you reset the windows. I don't remember the procedure exactly but it's something like wind all the way down then hold the button down for a couple of seconds then wind all the way up then hold the button up for a couple of seconds. If holding the key in lock doesn't wind all the windows, the windows haven't been reset.

What's a TARP?

Sixto
87 300D

bio350 · #3 03-21-2009, 07:59 PM

I did the window reset by holding the buttons down but I didn't know about holding the key in lock.

I took the lower center console apart and swapped the rear passenger window with the rear driver window. It still would only go up 1".
I just can't figure out what the "ticking" is coming from. Even with the key off and out it still makes the ticking. I'm having trouble getting to the Hazard Switch.

I called it a TARP. I guess it's the Aneroid Capsule. It sits on top of the Injection Pump.

bio350 · #4 03-22-2009, 06:37 PM

Update on the what I have found:

The window problem appears to be mechanical. I took the door panel off and the cable is really binding up for some reason. I pulled it all out of the motor and it had some really bad kinks in it. After getting it all hooked back up and gets almost all the way shut then the cable gets so tight the motor stops.
Is there some sort of adjustment for this?

The electrical problem continues, but I did find the relay that is causing all the rapid ticking. I just don't know what it goes to.

Help me identify this relay - it is a 4 pin (3 on one side and 1 on the other), I guess this is a part #001 542 91 19, there is a diagram on the top with #'s 31, 30, 86 and 15

sixto · #5 03-22-2009, 10:57 PM

That relay sounds pretty generic. Might be more useful to note it's location.

Sixto
87 300D

bio350 · #6 03-23-2009, 12:29 AM

It is behind the fuse box near the firewall. There are about 4 other relays all grouped together. Too close under the hood to be able to see if anything was labeled.
I'm going to call the dealer in the morning and see if they can locate it.

bio350 · #7 03-23-2009, 12:01 PM

Okay, I just determined what relay this is that continues to rapid fire "tick" even with the key out of the ignition.
It is the "diesel engine shutoff relay". Apparently it is only used in this model and year. I don't think it is bad, something is causing it to open and close rapidly.

Any suggestions/wisdom?

sixto · #8 03-24-2009, 01:21 AM

Did you try replacing the relay anyway? There must be others just like it in the car.

This is difficult to diagnose without a wiring diagram but my guess is 86 sees constant +12V and 31 is the ground signal to energize the solenoid. Energizing the solenoid connects 30 to a constant ground through 15. So what I'd do is remove the relay and put an analog ohm meter between pin 31 and ground. Check for +12V from pin 31 first. If you see +12V, don't check for resistance to ground.

Sixto
87 300D