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  #31  
Old 04-05-2009, 02:51 PM
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Thanks...

Thanks toomanyMBZ - appreciate it...

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  #32  
Old 04-05-2009, 08:55 PM
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Thanks toomanyMBZ - appreciate it...
No prob.
Folks are here to help.
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  #33  
Old 04-05-2009, 09:02 PM
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the rubber mount on that side is easy enough to do. you pull the battery tray, pop off a plastic cover and there it is. soak it w/ your favorite nutbuster and let it soak- you dont want to break one of these bolts off.

you may well want both wheels off the ground for the next step, remove the old, put on new. only tighten the bracket bolts with the front wheels on the ground, though, so they are under load.

consider doing both sides- I think you could do the drivers side w/ out removing the brake booster, but even that is not too hard to do- you do not need to remove the master cyl- only unhook it from the booster.

if you have the fsm, it takes you thru all this.
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  #34  
Old 04-05-2009, 10:26 PM
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Where do I get this pickle fork tool?!
I would stay away from pickle forks. Also, if you don't mind not replacing the UCA and jsut replace the ball joint boot the thread below talks about replacing tie rod end boots which should be similar to the UCA boot.

Tie Rod R&R - whole thing or just the end?

I also use a tool by OTC called a tie rod separator OTC7315. It does not do the damage a pickle fork will do. Thread above shows the tool and where you can get this tool. If you google it you may find a cheaper place.
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  #35  
Old 04-06-2009, 10:05 AM
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If you're going to replace the old UCA with a new assembly, it has a new ball joint installed. So using a pickle fork is fine, but the separator I bout was cheaper. Got both from NAPA.I can not find just an upper ball joint by itself, but didn't look that hard. Said UCA for a 123 is less than $50.
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Replacing upper control arm assemply...-ball-joint-tools-cropped.jpg  
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  #36  
Old 04-06-2009, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
If you're going to replace the old UCA with a new assembly, it has a new ball joint installed. So using a pickle fork is fine...
The pickle fork has a tendency to gouge the top of the steering knuckle, which sentences the new grease boot to a short life. Same concept applies to the lower ball joint and tire rod ends. Pickle forks are best avoided altogether; there are much better options available.
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  #37  
Old 04-06-2009, 12:40 PM
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^^Now that I re-read the question, he's trying to save it anyway, so go with the separator.
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  #38  
Old 04-06-2009, 01:46 PM
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I'll add another endorsement for the separator tool ... not only is it better in terms of saving the boot, but it's a lot friendlier to you back and arms, and your neighbors' ears. When I did the tie rods, I clanged and banged three of the four joints apart with the fork, and it worked OK, but I felt like I was at a carnival trying to win a 3-foot stuffed teddy bear. I couldn't get the fourth joint apart, so I took a breather and went to Pep Boys, where I found a separator for $9.99. POP. That joint came out. Job done.

If you do use a pickle fork, get a good one. Mine deformed against the joint, making it harder to get it apart.
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  #39  
Old 04-17-2009, 11:39 PM
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Finshed UCA replacement...

Just finished replacing the UCAs on both sides of the car. Purchased brand new FEBI replacement parts with new rubber bushings (4) all around. Had no major problems - one of the ball joints was a little hard to separate, but the pickle fork and a sledge hammer soon convinced it to let go...

The rest was real simple. Re-assembled everything putting a dab of anti-seize on every nut and bolt along the way. In the process I've also cleaned out the rusty battery tray, cleaned out the plugged up drain, and rotated the tires. Hopefully they won't wear as much (inside wear) now with the new UCAs in place.

Thanks to all for all the comments, advice and pictorials - all very, very helpful. Much appreciated - a very rewarding experience.

Good motoring -
James
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  #40  
Old 04-18-2009, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MercFan View Post
Just finished replacing the UCAs on both sides of the car. Purchased brand new FEBI replacement parts with new rubber bushings (4) all around. Had no major problems - one of the ball joints was a little hard to separate, but the pickle fork and a sledge hammer soon convinced it to let go...

The rest was real simple. Re-assembled everything putting a dab of anti-seize on every nut and bolt along the way. In the process I've also cleaned out the rusty battery tray, cleaned out the plugged up drain, and rotated the tires. Hopefully they won't wear as much (inside wear) now with the new UCAs in place.

Thanks to all for all the comments, advice and pictorials - all very, very helpful. Much appreciated - a very rewarding experience.

Good motoring -
James
I guess your UCA bolts were friendler than mine. I'm almost done my bushing replacement ... after a major bolt-extraction detour.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #41  
Old 04-18-2009, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
I guess your UCA bolts were friendler than mine. I'm almost done my bushing replacement ... after a major bolt-extraction detour.
Unlike the others I hope you're snapping pics along the way.......
We're all ready to see this "new" 240 become daily driver worthy.
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  #42  
Old 04-18-2009, 12:49 PM
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I posted some pics in my other thread about the bolt ... if they are of any interest ... take a look at the first few to see what a REALLY BAD BUSHING looks like: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/249774-uca-bolt-my-latest-impasse-post2178047.html#post2178047

Also, here's my ball joint ... dusty but no cracks at all and moves cleanly (but not overly loose) ... going to try to install the new bushings today.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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