Not long ago I scored this really nice '83 240D with relatively low (117K) miles. Everything has been going OK until tonight.

The car came with only one slightly curved key, so when I found a locksmith/keyshop with the right (I thought) blanks I got a couple of duplicates made. The original key I had and the new ones were of a brass type alloy.

When I first used the new key it was a little stiff in the ignition, and after several weeks I noticed some very fine brass powder by the ignition. I figured the key was just fitting itself to the ignition, as it was working easier in the lock.

Until tonight! I jumped in the car to run down the hill for some Thai dinner and the ignition would not (still will not) unlock. Has anybody had this problem and could point me in the right direction? If push comes to shove I am sure a locksmith (working in conjunction with the MB Stealer , no doubt) can rectify this situation. I would rather fix it myself if this is do-able. Please advise. Humbly submitted by a probie in the 123 business Mahalo Nui Loa (thanks very much) Haole

Some people have had luck spraying a graphite lube in there. Whatever you do, don't put any WD-40 or anything like that in there. I would try that first.

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My Primary Driver - '85 300CD - 4-speed conversion, 2.47 rear, lowered, euro headlights, rebuilding (not restoring so much)

Wife's - '08 Saab Sportcombi Aero

Riding a '03 Yamaha Warrior

Okay, you're going to get conflicting advice.
Do not use graphite.
Do use a spray lube.
This comes from a friend who was a locksmith, that's his recommendation.
With the key in the ignition, turn the wheel SLIGHTLY left and right, it may unlock.
If the switch is still useable, have a new key cut, go to the dealer and provide proof of ownership.
Do not have a locksmith make a duplicate, after the key being worn down a bit, a copy will be wrongly cut.
Good luck.

__________________
83 SD

84 CD

First thing is to go to the dealer with your title and VIN. They will order a new steel key that is cut from a master (not your old worn out one)

To unlock the wheel turn it to the left while holding the key with pressure to the right should release the lock. Do not keep using the brass key as it will wear down and the filings can jam the mechanism. If the wheel will not unlock using the method above, get a can of 'air' at a computer store and blow it into the lock. It may blow out some of the brass filings that are jamming the tumblers.

Good Luck!

__________________
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What's the problem with graphite?
I thought a dry lube would not attract grit and such that will eventually gum up the works when mixed with a liquid lube.
I graphited all the cars locks and it freed up my stuck passenger lock and made all the others operate very smoothly
/QUOTE=toomany MBZ;2164319]Okay, you're going to get conflicting advice.
Do not use graphite.
Do use a spray lube.
This comes from a friend who was a locksmith, that's his recommendation.
With the key in the ignition, turn the wheel SLIGHTLY left and right, it may unlock.
If the switch is still useable, have a new key cut, go to the dealer and provide proof of ownership.
Do not have a locksmith make a duplicate, after the key being worn down a bit, a copy will be wrongly cut.
Good luck.[/QUOTE]

__________________
1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

I wish to thank you all for the information and advice. A big Aloha to you all. I talked to a German mechanic I know, Hubert by name, who told me sometimes it is the lock itself (the bar) that is bad, gloom and doom scenario. I am going to operate on the assumption that the key is to blame and go that route (dealer key, try and clear filings). Once again, a big Mahalo for the support!

is it acceptable to drive with a bypassed ignition lock assembly?

the ignition key in my '82 w123 (240d) failed to work. i took dieselgiant.com advice (thank you!!!) on grinding down the pin potruding into the steering column. regardless the key still did not work! i bypassed the system by removing the vacuum lines and plugging them before starting...
glowplugs don't work but a squirt of WD40 does it everytime... I just short connectors on starter ad it comes right up
and unplugging the vacuum lines to kill the car!

my question is will continued use in this state cause any damage to the electrical sys or otherwise???

thank you for any input!
john