Weak battery? or something else?
 

Good Day All,
It sure has been sometime since i've posted last. Well spring is here..FINALLY though what a Horrible winter here in Chicago. The snow started in early Nov. and continued until...last saturday?? haha anyways it's basically finished...I hope:D

So since spring has arrived I have been anticipating bringing the Mercedes out of her winter semi-storage. My "issue" is that the battery will randomly go dead on the car. I experienced this most in the winter time when i'd start her once a week.. or at least attempt. Even though it had ran fine maybe a day or 2 before hand in similar conditions. Well last night I was with a friend, dropping a prescription off at Walgreen's and I turned the car off in the drive threw since It's hard to hear what they are saying. I left the lights, fog lights, stereo, and my foot on the brake pedal (I.e. brake lights) and took maybe 3-4 mins max to complete my order went to re-start it and it was a no go. Was so embaressed the me and my friend did the "flintstone" and each stuck one foot outside the door and pushed it around the corner.

Stupidly, I was cleaning the Lexus out and came across my jumper cables, looked at the Mercedes and thought "nahh, she has never once even thought of stranding me"... I spoke to soon I guess:cool: Had a friend come and jump me, though it seemed like the battery was really drained as it took a while to come up to cranking speed.

So is this just a case of a weak or 'dying' battery? Or some electrical gremlins?



Thanks GUys for the help and sorry If i ramble on.



Thanks Agian!

First, look in the battery and see if it needs water. If so, add distilled water. Don't overfill. Just up to the lowest part of the plastic ring. If you get too much water in there it will boil over when charging. Don't ask me how I know that. :o If one cell is dry you probably have a bad cell. How old is your battery? Expected life is around 4 to 5 years.

Next, charge the battery and then test it to see if it came up to full charge. Also, check each cell with a specific gravity tester to see if the cells differ greatly. If they do, after charging, then you have a bad cell.

I have heard that in an older battery, a corroded piece of the inside plate can suddely fall off and cause a short between the plate and the side of the battery. This could be why you had a sudden failure.

I would recommend that you remove the battery from the car if you are going to charge it. I had a boil-over and was really glad that the battery acid did not run down in my engine compartment. It is really corrosive.

Wear goggles and nitrile gloves as a precaution. And old clothes. I didn't see any battery acid splash but ended up with a pair of jeans with a few holes in them.

While you have the battery out, take the time to clean up your battery tray. It probably has rust on in. I used some WD-40 on mine before I put my battery back in.

Youi may want to have your alternator checked in the process as well.

Good luck. Let us know what you find.

make sure your ground strap isnt loose

Thanks for the information guys! I believe the battery to be about 4-5 years. Also, it's a maintenance free battery which I'm not sure if I could do the procedure you suggest RML but, i will double check to see.

Thats definently on my to do list with the battery tray. Last i checked, it was in need of replacement... Hate to see what it looks like under it now :(

Any suggestions on replacements if everything else checks out? Should I purchase a battery from the dealer? :D Or what about an Interstate?

Thanks everyone!

I had same symptoms, turned out to be a bad starter solenoid. Replaced starter with new Bosch one, never another problem starting Myrtle since.
+1 on the grounding strap. Driver side, from bell housing bolt, to body.

Not only the ground strap, but ALL electrical connections must be clean and tight. Sometimes they can look clean but not be clean as they look.
Steve

I have heard good things about interstate batteries. I would have purchased an Interstate but didn't have time to shop around. I bought an Autocraft. There was a Diehard in my car and the Autocraft and Diehard were the exact same battery, just a different label. Make sure you get a battery with the correct specifications for your car. Diesels need a lot of cranking power in the winter. My battery is 850 amps with 150 reserve amps. And it of course has to fit the battery tray. Getting one with the correct specs will take care of this.

While I was at it, I purchased a quick disconnect cable connector for the negative post. I did this after reading about another forum member's unfortunate electrical fire which totaled his car. I also bought some anti corrosion spray for the positive terminal. I needed this mostly for my 2000 Toyota van which had a lot of corrosion building up at the + post. But I used it when installing the new battery in my 84 300D. Now it looks like a really professional job.

I didn't know what cranking power was before I got this new battery. Wow, what a difference. I wouldn't have know if we had not had some single digit nights this past winter. I forgot to plug in my block heater one night and needed the extra power. In warmer weather, my car starts right up so I never realized what I was missing.

The local autoZoo should be able to check your system. I bought an Advance Auto brand 1000 CCA, the biggest one they have, warranty too.
In your situation, I'll second the quick disconnect connector.

Thanks all for your posts! The starter is about 2 years old I believe and yes, it was a major difference. The old starter was slow at cranking the car (sounded like a farm tractor). Though recently I've noticed the solenoid sticking on occasionally after ive started. THought this only happens in cold weather.

I never drive this car in the Winter, this is more of my Spring threw Fall car, as the road salt here in Chicago would eat it alive. Also, Being a native to Texas and Florida, SHe's a pretty clean car and wouldnt want to start the rust now would I haha. Its funny cause I have a "2 1/2" car garage aparently (according the the mortgage company anyway) But like any suburban family, Only 1 car can fit in it...Guess which one takes it? Yup even though the Mitsubishi and Lexus are both New, something inside me just cannot bare to let my "baby" sit outside and be weathered.

I'll start with replacing the battery. as i have owned the car for 3 or 4 years now and It is the original battery that came with it, which seemed to be in pretty rough condition then as well ;).

Didnt the forum member who's car caught on fire, wasn't that caused by a frozen AUX pump? or... Either way, I rarley Us the climate controll system.. Though I should probably order a MONO valve rebuild Kit from Phil.

How would I go about finding parts/ installing this cut-off for the battery?

On a side note, what was the Original Alternator installed on these cars.... I possibly could have an original..if it's a Bosch..


Thanks GUys

An online place should provide a cut off switch. But I know griotsgarage.com (on line too) has something.
My alt. is a Bosch.
Glad to see your priorities are in place with the garage!

[QUOTE=Glad to see your priorities are in place with the garage![/QUOTE]

Exactly ;)

I have lost too many batteries to count over the years in cars just sitting in seasonal storage. The batteries have little tollerance for it.

The only way to almost guarantee a battery in storage will not deteriorate is to dump the acid and store it dry. Then when you return the acid after the storage period. The battery will be as it was when you dumped the acid.

Of course a full face shield and elbow length rubber gloves are the minumin to do this. With disposible clothes as well just in case. With the above method you can store safely for up to 15 years I understand. The US navy uses this by the way.

Trickle charging does not work nor any other things that we have heard of. They may lessen the damage somewhat but that is all.

Todays battery has to stay in service to do well and reach it's expected lifespan usually. Ideally pulling it and keeping it in service in another vehicle works well too.

Checkout batterytender.com

Try this thread:
CABLES

Also, my philosophy and practice is to act as if there is no such thing as a maintenance-free battery. You can open MOST so-called "Maintenance -free" batteries to add electrolyte or distilled H20 by carefully prying open the cell cover/cap at their vent.

And I use a trickle charger (battery tender) to maintain my stored batteries...after adding electrolite if needed.

I lost a battery in my motorcycle last winter.
This winter I had a Battery Tender Jr. (The small battery model, rather than a non-"Jr." version) on the bike's battery, and it's lit off every time I went out to the garage to crank it up, including having had a 3 month stretch where I wasn't able to do so.

I know Napa auto parts also sells a float charger for storage of vehicles which claims to be safe to leave plugged in the entire time it is on the car.
Using one of those, I had a car parked 2 years while I was out of the area, and other than a couple of connections that were a little oxidized, I was able to fire the car up when I got back.