If you want an old atf equivalent for more lubrication without paying $10 a pint, without all the detergent that is in dexron ii, iii etc, get generic hydraulic fluid in 2 gallon jugs from the tractor supply. Buy the fluid that does not meet the specs of all the manufacturers. It is the same as sus 32 hydraulic fluid available in barrels(the flammable kind, do not use military or aircraft non-flammable hydraulic fluid). I'm running some used sus32 hydraulic fluid through a goldenrod filter/water separator on my 240d. Anybody that sees my previous posts about burning used atf, I was burning up Ford type F fluid from my own ford fleet, also a low additive forumula.

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'80 240D biege "Mercey Bird"
'80 240D light blue "Slug"
'80 300SD dark blue "Theodin"

I never find Bio cheaper than Diesel here in the Santa Cruz area. I would use it if it was. I mostly see B5.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

If you want to add oil its best to use an oil made to mix with fuel for lubrication and burn in the engine, like 2-stroke oil.

When adding hydraulic oils like ATF and mineral oil, there is no guarantee it will mix instead of just settling on top or below the fuel.

2 stroke oil was recently suggested to me by a forum member. I will have to experiment with that to be certain. As Forced has pointed out, it will readily mix with fuels and I would like to point out the anti-coking qualities of that fuel additive too...Robert

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Did you just pass my 740 at 200 kmh in a 300SD?????

1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013



100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership

If you go with 2-cycle oil, make sure it's ashless. It's better for your injectors. I had some mixing trouble with it though. The oil is very viscous and it takes time to dissolve properly. I think it's better to use a real diesel additive that also does more than just add some lubricity. Cetane, water dispersion and injector cleaning are useful attributes as well.

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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL

I highly doubt winterized diesel has higher cetane. Certainly judging by engine noise it seems to be the opposite. Also as far as I know kerosene has lower cetane than D2 and that's essentially what they use to winterize diesel fuel.

I remember reading on the Chevron site that the color of diesel fuel varies and it basically means nothing.

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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL

when I use the 2 stroke oil, the engine sounds just like my old blue Homelite
chain saw.

Not really, don`t see any difference, see no smoke like I have see some mention will
happen adding oil to the fuel.

The 2 stroke oil will mix w/o any problem. add the oil, then pump the fuel, it will mix.

charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Maybe I was just confusing myself on that one...

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Dan
2005 E320 CDI - 246k
1987 300SDL TD05-16g, Herlevi pump, Elbe manifold, 2.47 LSD - 213k
Past: 1987 300D - 264k

This is the stupidest post ever, i'm sorry but I have always wondered. What is the difference from Diesel #1 and Diesel #2? I have never in my life seen Diesel #1...

Also why is Cali diesel bad?

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2007 BMW 328XI

I believe Diesel #1 is the same thing as kerosene, but it's usually not served at the pump in its pure form but rather it's mixed with #2 as needed to winterize the fuel (prevent it from gelling). In warm temperatures usually only pure #2 is served. I've noticed regardless of mixing they always just call it #2. Apart from the gelling problem in cold weather, #2 is a better fuel because it contains more energy and seems to have higher cetane.

As To Cali fuel, I don't know either why some think it's bad. I've never had any bad experience with it the few times I tried it.

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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL

Might be the lack of sulphur...all new diesel is ULSD "ultra low sulphr diesel" for cleaner emissions...and new diesel vehicle fuel systems are designed with that ULSD fuel in mind. I believe sulphur was for lubrication of certain parts...and our old diesel engines were designed with sulphur in mind...new ULSD was not chemically designed with our old engines as a primary concern, if any concern at all...

now compare that to gas...old leaded gas had lead for valve train lubrication and such. Unleaded gas caused the "softer" valve seats of older cars to wear out at an accelerated rate. "hardened" valve seats were the buss word on rebuilt heads of your old mucles cars to correct the problem...they also used to sell "lead substitute".

I would say use a lubrication additive of some type to do what the sulphur used to do...probably explains why diesel dries less oily now...

but that all is just my opinion....

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1987 300TDT
1981 VW MKI Caddy 1.6 diesel, waiting on engine swap
1983 D-50 Power Ram 4x4 "Mitsubishi" 2.3 turbo diesel
assorted gas powered crap and motorcycles

RIP: 1984 300TDT, 1982 300TDT, 1984 190D 2.2, 1992 300D 2.5, 1987 300TDT, 1982 Maxima LD28, 1983 Maxima LD28, Isuzu C223 P'ups X3, 1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 Banks turbo diesel, 1984 Winnebago LeSharo 2.1 TD, 1985 Allegro 6.5

No, sulfur itself has nothing to do with lubricity. It is the process that removes sulfur that also lowers lubricity, but that is compensated by lubricity additives that are added by the refinery or gas station to meet the same lubricity standard as before. The only problem older cars have experienced on ULSD to my knowledge is o-ring shrinkage causing fuel leaks, but that's also related to the age of the rubber and usually it's a one-time replacement.

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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL

Sulfur has no useful properties, its just a natural contaminant that comes from the crude. It wasn't removed before because the process is expensive and leaving it in has no negative side effects.

Comparing to leaded gas is apples : oranges. Lead was an additive put into the fuel for specific reasons (octane booster and anti-wear), sulfur is a natural part of diesel that has no use.

DA has it right.

100% of leaking o-rings and injection pump failures blamed on ULSD are a scapegoat from psychological bias introduced by additive marketers. O-rings fail due to age and heat cycling stress. Pumps fail due to wear, contaminated fuel, overheating and abuse. They have always been failing long before ULSD, the commonness of the internet in the early 2000's has only inflated the perceived problem since people far more frequently report problems than anything else. If ULSD really were as bad as some would have you believe then there would be millions of sudden engine deaths across the country starting around late 2006. The fact that most all are still happily humming along without a single problem should be proof there is no actual threat from ULSD.