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  #16  
Old 04-14-2009, 08:23 PM
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Nothing left on dipstick. I guess I will hook everything back up and try again soon. I will try to look thru oil cap.

Paul

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  #17  
Old 04-14-2009, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moon161 View Post
Oh. Open the air cleaner, cover the inlet (over the throttle plate) with your hand, press hard to seal. That'll stop it. If it's a manual, put it in gear, let the clutch out.
You'd have to find a 10mm socket to get that cover off. That'd take forever. Best last resort option is a 17mm to get those hard lines loosened. As soon as the fuel pressure to pop the injectors is gone, it will die, cylinder by cylinder. And I bet it won't run on 2....so getting a few loosened is probably enough.

I bet the engine survived, especially since it was only running at idle with no load....its not like it was a run away. There was probably still oil in the bearings and coating things.
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  #18  
Old 04-14-2009, 11:05 PM
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I really expect things will be fine. Based on an idle situation from a cold start. Plus no major external loading.

Oil viscosity is also better when cold and what felt like five minutes in your situation in reality should be far shorter in time. .You where probably moving around faster than if you had injested too much ex lax. Seconds can seem like minutes in certain panic situations.

Compound this senario with the time I ran a raffle for the estimated time an engine at idle with no oil would survive. That thing took what seemed forever before the internal friction became an obvious problem.

It must have been 15 minutes before any lower end noises started. A loaded engine at higher rpms is another story. From your description you should be good to go.

The only unusual thing I might do is roll the engine over without starting it till oil presssure showed. Just a fresh pre lube.
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  #19  
Old 04-15-2009, 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
You'd have to find a 10mm socket to get that cover off. That'd take forever.
Naw man, pop the 2-3 clips nearest the engine and he-man the rest, steel or aluminum, it ain't that strong. Besides, cutting fuel won't stop a runaway where it's feasting on crank oil.
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  #20  
Old 04-15-2009, 06:44 AM
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Putting your hand over the oil filler hole is not a way to stop the engine.

Probably fine though.
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  #21  
Old 04-15-2009, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by moon161 View Post
Naw man, pop the 2-3 clips nearest the engine and he-man the rest, steel or aluminum, it ain't that strong. Besides, cutting fuel won't stop a runaway where it's feasting on crank oil.
while I don't know what a cali air filter hooks to exactly... the standard turbo 617 air filter has a U tube on the front that should yank off fairly easily. WAAAAAY before I attempted to distort the air cleaner cover, or break the center bolt ... what exactly would you cover inside there anyway? I'd find the turbo inlet, and seal it with a book,
FINALLY a good use for all those haynes manuals that come with my cars...
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  #22  
Old 04-15-2009, 09:22 AM
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I'm thinking NA engine, sorry. I tried a few things cause I was curious. It sucks too much by if you just cover the inlet of the air cleaner.
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  #23  
Old 04-15-2009, 10:28 AM
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Tyler's next car

It seems like you are preparing your car for Tyler to buy.
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  #24  
Old 04-15-2009, 11:38 AM
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I meant that i put my hand over the air cleaner hole not the oil cap hole. My mistake. The STOP would have worked fine if the injection line was not in the way. The car was in an hard front crash so maybe things moved a little. I will put it the radiator and new oil cooler on today or tomorrow to test the motor. Thanks to everyone who has posted. General concensus is that it should be ok. Car is one owner 181K. PO was Mercedes Dealership Mechanic. The nicest interior that I have every seen on W123.
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  #25  
Old 04-15-2009, 12:10 PM
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It will usually stop at idle by blocking the oil pan breather hose in about 10 seconds or so. Of course the oil cap has to remain on. What happens is the contained presurized blowby increases pressure. This works on the rear side of the shut off diaphram and kills the engine. Your shut off arm being blocked might have prevented this in your particular case.
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  #26  
Old 04-15-2009, 07:04 PM
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I would have pulled the fresh air flex hose and covered the inlet to the air cleaner.
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #27  
Old 04-15-2009, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry123400 View Post
Compound this senario with the time I ran a raffle for the estimated time an engine at idle with no oil would survive. That thing took what seemed forever before the internal friction became an obvious problem.

It must have been 15 minutes before any lower end noises started. A loaded engine at higher rpms is another story. From your description you should be good to go.
Contrast that to the time where our Honda outboard boat motor ran itself dry. We were cruising right along at about 5000 RPM when a design flaw in the oil pan finally made itself known...the hot exhaust accelerated corrosion in the bottom of the pan and it finally let loose. It probably took about 10 seconds from when first I noticed a funny sound to when it finally seized. The forces were so great in the engine that the camshaft sprocket twisted itself right off the camshaft. The block also ended up cracking...apparent after the first rebuild when it started puking milky cooling water. After much argument with Honda, we finally got them to replace the long block at their expense.

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