Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-14-2009, 07:27 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tucson
Posts: 3
Center Vent issue 123

I recently bought a 85 300 TD with 128k miles. AC was working fine, but recently the AC air that should be coming through the center vents is coming through the defroster vents. Also, on cool mornings the heat only seems to blow warm when the car is stationary. The vents seem to move to their proper position in the heat mode.

I found an old thread that discusses replacing a vacuum control valve by accessing it via the glove box, but I wondered if the additional problem of the heat blowing cold while moving could indicate a different issue?

Also, in the above mentioned thread, someone referred to propping the flap open allowing the air to enter via the center vents, but did not elaborate on how to do it.

My questions are:

1. Has anyone encountered a similar issue?
2. What was the fix?
3. How do I prop open the flap to get some AC for the center vents in the hot Tucson weather until I can fix it properly?

Thanks,
Dave Newsome

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-14-2009, 08:25 PM
POS's Avatar
POS POS is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 2,506
First, check your coolant level. If you don't have enough coolant, you won't have enough heat.

Second, screwball AC temps can be attributed to the monovalve. It's in a box mounted on the engine firewall, passenger side. Four screws and it's easily replaced - I think it's $60 or so? The seal around the valve deteriorates and it makes the ac temps screwy.

Lastly, remove the center vents (can't remember how, but it was easy), then take the glovebox out and reach around to the center vents. Pull back the rubber sheathing to expose the problem. Through the center vents, you'll see the flap and an arm that control the flap via vacuum. In one of my old w123s, the arm had simply become detached from the flap - one zip tie later and presto it worked. If you find that the arm is still connected to the flap, then the vacuum pod may be dead. You can prop that flap open permanently in any way you see fit. That'll get you through the summer.
__________________
- Brian


1989 500SEL Euro
1966 250SE Cabriolet
1958 BMW Isetta 600
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-14-2009, 11:46 PM
Jeremy5848's Avatar
Registered Biodiesel User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sonoma Wine Country
Posts: 8,402
Remember that the center vent does not get used for heat, only for cooling.
__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-15-2009, 09:07 AM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: central Va
Posts: 7,820
I've heard you can reroute a couple of vac lines behind CCU area, and the center flaps will stay open even with heat. You'll need to pull said unit to gain access, good luck.
__________________
83 SD

84 CD
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-17-2009, 02:24 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tucson
Posts: 3
Ripped off

Thanks for the advice. I enede up taking it to a shop. They diagnosed the problem as the vacuum pod, said it would be a $500 fix, and told them to forget it. (After $95 diagnostic fee) Feeling screwed!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-17-2009, 03:39 PM
UriahT's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 387
Quote:
Originally Posted by dtnewsome View Post
Thanks for the advice. I enede up taking it to a shop. They diagnosed the problem as the vacuum pod, said it would be a $500 fix, and told them to forget it. (After $95 diagnostic fee) Feeling screwed!
WHAT?!? You can buy a used engine for that price...
There's DIY threads detailing fixing the vacuum pods.
Spend a day and replace all of them behind the dash for $100 or less.

__________________
I-------------------------------------1981 300TD, Thistle Green, 140K------------------------------------I
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:25 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page