SLS Valve re-Assembly confusion -help!
 

There seems to be some confusion when I have read different instructions on assembly the SLS valve - I had a problem with clearance when I bolted the valve body back together such that the cam was pinched and would not budge. I notice that when I examine the groove that the big bearing rides in, off to the side near the access hole there is an indent that the bearing could sit in, but if this is the case, the bearing would be off center and not make contact with the tiny spring, it would however allow the piston to move further down the bore and allow for more clearance so that cam would not be pinched. On the other hand, it is sensical that the bearing would sit on the end of the tiny spring and center in the groove (not in the indent)which is how I had it the first time . . what's up? I need the SLS valve expert here, thanks!

best -James

i assume you have already been here

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/195914-diy-rebuild-self-leveling-suspension-sls-valve-w123-300td-wagon-sagging-rear.html?highlight=sls+rebuild

from that thread
sounds like your doing something funny with your large bearing.

Yep, been there, I found the below vague

"There is a second larger ball bearing trapped in a passage in the valve body behind the piston." I want to ensure that the orientation of the larger ball bearing is exactly where it is supposed to be this time. I believe that I had it right the first time with the ball bearing dead center in the groove and imprisoned this way by the spring when pushed completely into the bore. Is this right or does the ball bearing roll off to the side without being centered?

maybe try re-posting on the diy thread to get some more responses ?, i know many have done it, i did mine last week. I just dropped the big bearing in the slot and let it roll in toward the center like it says to do in the instructions. haven't reinstalled it on the vehicle yet though, maybe i did it wrong, read pretty clearly to me though.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3333/...8ea702.jpg?v=0

seems to illustrate that the big bearing is not jammed behind the spring

Fixed!
 

I finally, after talking to Andrew realized that the ball bearing actually rolls into the groove center towards the center of the valve body versus the "valve" as stated which is very different from valve body. To all - the large ball bearing does not sit on the end of the small spring when installed so it is entirely unnecessary to place the bearing on the spring and wiggle piston assembly into the bore. As previous instructions mention, just drop the bearing into the groove and tilt valve body so bearing rolls towards the center of the valve body and then push piston assembly into piston bore until flush with bore opening. You can actually hear the bearing if you shake the valve assembly a little -good luck! Oh, just a note, I have had two shops try to sell me new SLS valves (500-600 dollars) and claim that they have never had any luck rebuilding these valves . . . yea right, don't fall for this. Just get Andrews o-ring kit and clean things up nicely. My advice is remove the valve by using a 10mm socket and long extension on the 4 bolts that mount valve bracket to the body of the car -much easier! I bead blasted my valve bracket and the control arm torsion bracket (linkage) and used POR 15 -came out great! I am also going to use a cosmoline type product and spray over installed valve to protect against road grime and future corrosion. Thanks again to all who helped!

Hi

May I ask where you found this diagram? I'd like to see the rest of it explaining the parts.

I'm interested in learning just how these valves work.

Thanks,

Joseph