You're good to go..........with the IP timing in question. If it's out, the engine will start and run..........but with considerably lower power than you had previously.

Good luck.

You'll probably do this anyway, but I suggest getting a good light and really looking over everything as carefully as you can before you button her up. Check to make sure the chain rails are intact an in place, the tensioner is as it should be, nothing left behind, etc.
Good luck, looking forward to reading about your success!

Something was nagging me about your post earlier this evening. Like I had missed something. Well I had.

You have the ratcheting type tensioner. It is extended for a worn chain. You must push the the centre or tensioner rod out and start it in again from the back.

The rachet will not let it back up to deal with the less sloppy new timing chain. So your tensioner is pressing far too hard. It is perhaps better you never started the engine as you might have damaged something.

Check the archives for a good description of re tensioning the tensioner properly. If you have run the engine make sure to pull that tensioner and fix it. Sorry I did not pick this up earlier. It should have occured to me.

Did you put the tensioner back on and then lined up the timing marks? IIRC, that makes a big difference. Did I read correctly above that you're having a hard time moving the crank with the tensioner in there? If so, that doesn't sound right. As previously suggested, take at least two or three or more gp's out and try it then. You are turning clockwise, correct? I would go with the 1deg reading--probably where you need to be--lining up the top and bottom timing marks is meant to be an approximation reading. To be precise you need to do the valve lift method (which I've never done).

Oops, didn't scroll to page 2 when I posted, so these guys have it covered. I think Barry is on to something.