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  #16  
Old 04-17-2009, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmaq View Post
Ok, so I took the easiest approach first and repositioned the cam. Moved the chain back 1/2 link but still at 15 degrees. Moved back another 1/2 link and I'm about 1 degree (?) before 0. Turned the crank over a couple of times to make sure I'm not binding on a valve. Am I ready to put everything together and fire her up or is there anything else to check.

Thanks,
bigmaq
You're good to go..........with the IP timing in question. If it's out, the engine will start and run..........but with considerably lower power than you had previously.

Good luck.
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  #17  
Old 04-17-2009, 05:17 PM
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You'll probably do this anyway, but I suggest getting a good light and really looking over everything as carefully as you can before you button her up. Check to make sure the chain rails are intact an in place, the tensioner is as it should be, nothing left behind, etc.
Good luck, looking forward to reading about your success!
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  #18  
Old 04-17-2009, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by bigmaq View Post
Ok, I got it to move. The tensioner was pushing it really tight, so I released the tensioner bolts and loosened up the chain.

Thanks,
bigmaq
Something was nagging me about your post earlier this evening. Like I had missed something. Well I had.

You have the ratcheting type tensioner. It is extended for a worn chain. You must push the the centre or tensioner rod out and start it in again from the back.

The rachet will not let it back up to deal with the less sloppy new timing chain. So your tensioner is pressing far too hard. It is perhaps better you never started the engine as you might have damaged something.

Check the archives for a good description of re tensioning the tensioner properly. If you have run the engine make sure to pull that tensioner and fix it. Sorry I did not pick this up earlier. It should have occured to me.
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  #19  
Old 04-18-2009, 12:07 AM
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Did you put the tensioner back on and then lined up the timing marks? IIRC, that makes a big difference. Did I read correctly above that you're having a hard time moving the crank with the tensioner in there? If so, that doesn't sound right. As previously suggested, take at least two or three or more gp's out and try it then. You are turning clockwise, correct? I would go with the 1deg reading--probably where you need to be--lining up the top and bottom timing marks is meant to be an approximation reading. To be precise you need to do the valve lift method (which I've never done).
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  #20  
Old 04-18-2009, 12:29 AM
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Oops, didn't scroll to page 2 when I posted, so these guys have it covered. I think Barry is on to something.
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