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  #1  
Old 04-17-2009, 01:58 PM
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New glue bonds Polyethylene for door vapor barrier

After trying Rubber Cement and kids Sticky Glue (with terrible results) I found that Loctite Plastic Bonder works pretty good.

As you may know, almost nothing sticks to polyethylene. This stuff is like super glue with an activator. Here's how I used it.

I cut a new vapor barrier (clear polyethylene, thick as I could find at the home center) using the old one as a pattern . Sharpie marker works good. I chose to only glue it at the top, and then let it hang down and be held in by the screws and fasteners (feedback welcome here).

The activator is like a felt tip pen with clear fluid...you can't see it. So hold up the plastic to the door and draw a line with the sharpie where you are going to glue it. Draw right on top of the sheet. Then flip the sheet over onto the floor and you can see your mark thru the clear plastic.

Draw with the activator pen on top of your line. Wait 60 seconds. Put a thin line of glue on your mark and hold it to the door for another 60 seconds. You're done.


There are other threads on this topic, so read them to get the whole picture. Spray contact adhesive seems to work for some folks...I just didn't want the spray getting all over.

Would be nice to know what the Germans used at the factory.

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  #2  
Old 04-17-2009, 02:07 PM
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This works perfectly:
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New glue bonds Polyethylene for door vapor barrier-double-sided-tape.jpg  
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  #3  
Old 04-17-2009, 05:25 PM
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That's a great idea. Wonder how it holds up?

Also, does anyone know if the glue is just to hold it in place until the interior door panel is attached??.......or, should it be glued all around to actually make an airtight seal?
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  #4  
Old 04-17-2009, 07:57 PM
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My experience is that Scotch tape adhesive is not very durable, and dries out after five or six years. It would not matter here, as the fasteners would hold it in place.

The Loctite would probably still be stuck after the Scotch double sided tape gave out. I used contact cement, which is messy, so I would prefer either of the things you mentioned.

It is a vapor barrier. The purpose is to keep water from weather away from the upholstery and its backing. I don't think it is intended to be a waterproof seal.
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  #5  
Old 04-17-2009, 08:14 PM
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I've always used the 3M spray adhesive.
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  #6  
Old 09-06-2012, 12:39 AM
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I am using 3M Window Weld Butyl Ribbon Sealer. Some say this kind of stuff is reusable, but I just destroyed the OE vapor barrier because it sticks a bit too well. 3/8 is too much material so try to cut if back by stretching it or doing something else.
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  #7  
Old 09-06-2012, 01:09 AM
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Answer

I use M 90 spray adhesive.
Spray both contact surfaces, give it 5 - 10 minutes to fully tack, then apply.


.
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  #8  
Old 09-06-2012, 05:12 AM
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That's not pullable/re-stickable, is it? Do you cut a new barrier each time?
Where do you get M90?

Extra heavy at the bottom to prevent leaks?
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #9  
Old 09-06-2012, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
That's not pullable/re-stickable, is it? Do you cut a new barrier each time?
Where do you get M90?

Extra heavy at the bottom to prevent leaks?
That was what I was thinking too. I want something that will hold PE in place while re-assembling door, but not stick so well that I can't remove it later. I have been using just whatever is handy. Mostly the 3M Super weatherstrip and gasket adhesive 8001
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  #10  
Old 09-06-2012, 09:33 AM
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Elmers kraft bond worked for me
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  #11  
Old 09-06-2012, 10:16 AM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
That's not pullable/re-stickable, is it? Do you cut a new barrier each time?
Where do you get M90?

Extra heavy at the bottom to prevent leaks?
I can re-use the barrier five - ten times before it distorts to much.


.
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  #12  
Old 09-06-2012, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
I can re-use the barrier five - ten times before it distorts to much.


.


But you respray the m90 each time?

Where do you buy it?
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #13  
Old 09-06-2012, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham View Post
That was what I was thinking too. I want something that will hold PE in place while re-assembling door, but not stick so well that I can't remove it later. I have been using just whatever is handy. Mostly the 3M Super weatherstrip and gasket adhesive 8001
Have you ever reused this stuff or unstuck and restock the vb when using this? Does the vb stay in tact or is it stuck too hard? Does it come off clean?

I used 3M window weld butyl ribbon sealer which cleanly comes off, but it sticks enough that pulling the vb essentially wrecks it. But it is good tight sealant...

A bead of something like you link to is easier to work.
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #14  
Old 09-06-2012, 11:30 AM
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PE is often used as a 'tie layer' when manufacturing multi-layer films. It's also used as a heat seal layer because of it's low melting temp. You might be able to iron it onto some thick single sided tape.
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  #15  
Old 09-06-2012, 01:34 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
But you respray the m90 each time?

Where do you buy it?
Auto parts stores.
Body shop supply.
Craft stores.
Marine supply stores.
ETC, etc...

Product Catalog Detail - Industrial Adhesives, Structural, Non-Structural, Bonding Tapes, Fasteners, Custom / Die Cuts - 3M US:*3M


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