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#1
04-21-2009, 11:05 AM
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Voltage Dropping 126
So yesterday on a 45 minute drive home my electrical started to malfunction. I first noticed it when I tried to roll up my window as it barely made it up. Then the wipers barely worked. Next my speedometer started fluttering. Eventually all my electrical was barely working. I was going to stop and run some errands but figured I should drive it home since it would likely not start again.
I installed a remote entry system that tells me the voltage on the remote. I checked it out as I was driving and I was getting 7 and 8 volts!  I put a new battery in about 4 months ago and I put a new 150amp alternator from eagleelectronics (here- When I got home I popped the hood and looked at the alternator. I immediately noticed that one of the stock wires had come out of the crimp (ring terminal) and was grounding out on the alternator itself. I fixed it, put the wires back on the alternator, charged the battery and called it a night. Also- the alternator was spinning and the belts were fine. Well this morning same thing. I get about a mile down the road and my electrical starts acting up. I drop my son off at daycare and head back home. Pulled the brushes on the alternator and they looked good. Charged the battery and it held voltage. Started it and checked the voltage on the battery. It started out just shy of 12V and dropped to the 9s while it was running in about a minute. So I shut it off and drove my back up car. Seems to me that there is something wrong with the alternator. I still have my stock 65 amp. Should I resplice the wires and put this one back on to see if the problem goes away? What else can I check on the alternator while it is in? Obviously if something is wrong with the alternator I will be sending it back as there is a 1 year warranty. Thanks! -Ryan
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2009 ML320 Bluetec 1985 300CD 1981 300TD  Past Mercedes 1979 300TD 1982 300TD 2000 E320 4Matic Wagon 1998 E430 1984 300SD 1980 300SD 
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#2
04-21-2009, 11:21 AM
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You could check the wiring to be sure there is no open circuit caued by the wire grounding (and shorting). If all of the wiring is preforming as it is supposed to you could have tha Alternator Tested.
Swapping the new for the Old will depend if you need your car as a daily driver or not. Putting the old Alternator back in (if it was working before) would tell you if it is the Alternator or the wiring. It would not hurt to check and see if your Gound Cable is OK also before removing and testing everthing.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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#3
04-23-2009, 09:31 AM
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UPDATE:
After checking some wires/cables for continuity and not finding anything wrong I decided to remove the alternator for testing. I brought it to the local Autozone along with my stock 65amp. We tested the stock one and all was good. At first we couldn't test the 150amp one. They needed to know exactly what car it came off of for the computer program to run right. I called the guy I got it from and he said they come off of 91-92 300 TE/SE. The Autozone guys put this in and got it to work. It failed. I called the guy back and he said to check it again with a known working voltage regulator. If it is the regulator he will ship me a new one for free. If not he will trade out alternators. I'm going to check the regulator today. I put the 65amp stock one back on and all is working fine. The original reason I upgraded was I added a Webasto heater for winter starts. This was draining my battery and even though it would start after the first use of the Webasto it wouldn't start if I had to drive a short distance, stop and restart it. I put the 150amp on and this probelm was gone. So I'll put the 150amp on sometime before next winter! 
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2009 ML320 Bluetec 1985 300CD 1981 300TD Past Mercedes 1979 300TD 1982 300TD 2000 E320 4Matic Wagon 1998 E430 1984 300SD 1980 300SD
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