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  #16  
Old 04-24-2009, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bustedbenz View Post
Mine exhibits these same symptoms pulling the 2,000 feet up the mountain to school and the radiator's new within the last 3 years (when I crunched the oak tree the first winter we had the car), fan/clutch within the last year (converted to 606 parts).

I can *usually* make mine stop trying to overheat (I certainly never let it hit the red before I do something) by turning the air conditioner off. The spare horsepower this frees up seems to help the problem... the temp then just stops close to where it had climbed to (usually 115-117 degrees) and stays put until I give the car a break again. Turn the air on, and it's pretty much an instant increase on the temp gauge. Have never let it keep climbing to see where it'll stop but it was 115 and climbing when I killed the air last time.

Our Explorer and F-250 both had/have (we don't have the Explorer anymore) aftermarket radiators that had an increased cooling capacity compared to the factory standard original (more cooling loops within the radiator or something, I'm not sure). These extra-capacity radiators were intended for people that did heavy towing and pulling, and it sure showed on the average cruising temperature.

Anybody come out with something like this for the SDL yet? It's certainly a good idea, if you ask me, if somebody could figure out how to do it.
I with the guy that suggested making sure the condensor is cleaned, sure sounds like you're suffering from reduced airflow at the radiator.

I was considering suggesting you add a water-wetter to the coolant but that'll just mask other cooling system issues. Have you tried stuff like a citric acid flush to the cooling system? New pressure cap? Pressure test to ensure that something like the tank isn't cracked and releasing pressure?

The cooling system is a fairly complex deal where all the parts have to work in concert, if one is letting you down the whole system falls apart.
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  #17  
Old 04-24-2009, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by curtludwig View Post
I with the guy that suggested making sure the condensor is cleaned, sure sounds like you're suffering from reduced airflow at the radiator.


PLUS you gain the benefit of cooler AC. Seems like a win/win to me.
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  #18  
Old 04-24-2009, 09:41 PM
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PLUS you gain the benefit of cooler AC. Seems like a win/win to me.
Unless the owner is a complete idiot, the condenser is not the likely culprit. It can attract some debris right on the front face but it's not prone to clogged passages like the radiator. You can easily see right though the fins on the condenser..........it's a basic straight through design that won't easily trap dust and debris.
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  #19  
Old 04-24-2009, 09:44 PM
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Oh I've had some neglected vehicles. I yanked the e-fan(s) and you'd be shocked what falls out! The lower tubes get blocked, not a huge loss but every little bit helps when you only hold 2.9lb to begin with.
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  #20  
Old 04-24-2009, 09:57 PM
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Oh I've had some neglected vehicles.
...........you wouldn't post on here asking what to do..........
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  #21  
Old 04-24-2009, 10:15 PM
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On which? I remember when I bought my SDL it would barely get out of its own way until this board helped.
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  #22  
Old 04-24-2009, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by curtludwig View Post
I with the guy that suggested making sure the condensor is cleaned, sure sounds like you're suffering from reduced airflow at the radiator.

I was considering suggesting you add a water-wetter to the coolant but that'll just mask other cooling system issues. Have you tried stuff like a citric acid flush to the cooling system? New pressure cap? Pressure test to ensure that something like the tank isn't cracked and releasing pressure?

The cooling system is a fairly complex deal where all the parts have to work in concert, if one is letting you down the whole system falls apart.
The expansion tank itself cracked about two years ago and was replaced with a brand new tank and pressure cap at that time. How can a radiator that's less than 3 years old need an acidic flush that normally degunks 20-year accumulations?
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  #23  
Old 04-24-2009, 10:18 PM
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Do you guys have the lower temp fan switch? I think it's red, smart move there too..............
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  #24  
Old 04-24-2009, 10:32 PM
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On which? I remember when I bought my SDL it would barely get out of its own way until this board helped.
It's the most basic of maintenance chores by an owner to ensure that the front of the condenser isn't filled with debris............but, maybe my expectations of ownership is just too high...........
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  #25  
Old 04-24-2009, 10:34 PM
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It's the most basic of maintenance chores by an owner to ensure that the front of the condenser isn't filled with debris............but, maybe my expectations of ownership is just too high...........


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  #26  
Old 04-24-2009, 10:50 PM
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you can follow my thread on here about OM603 running hot, Im about to pull rad and clean it and do a few other things.

lets revisit overheating om603...

Changing the rad is not hard, easy DIY job. Worth it to try to clean fins and reinstall before dropping wad of cash on a new Behr. If you do replace just be sure to get the Rad with metal sleeves on inlet outlet tubes (Behr) not ones without (Nissen). Price difference is over $100 but worth it. I think there was even a service bulletin to install metal sleeves in some that didnt come with it, maybe thats cheapest best way if replacing rad.
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  #27  
Old 04-25-2009, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X View Post
I agree with Brian, sounds like you have a very old cooling system. In Hell here, I don't get much past about 90-95C with the 606 clutch/fan, new radiator, proper coolant
You live in Hell? I bought an instrument cluster for my Harley in Hell about 12 years ago. My buddy plays in a band as a hobby and has played there a few times.
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  #28  
Old 04-25-2009, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
It's the most basic of maintenance chores by an owner to ensure that the front of the condenser isn't filled with debris............but, maybe my expectations of ownership is just too high...........
I agree that your expectations are too high.

I took my aux fan out and cleaned it and the condenser a couple years ago. I'm pretty sure from the amount of dirt and debris that I found, that it had never been done. One of the 3 mounting points on the bracket was broken and I had that welded as well. I'm not sure how long that had been broken.
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  #29  
Old 01-11-2010, 02:15 PM
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just wanted to update this old issue. i had the radiator replaced quite a while ago now, and it seems to be much better. the seven mile stretch of 6% will sometimes get me near 100C but thats the worst the car sees. for the most part, its right around the thermos designated 85C temp, and steady.

also spent a little time cleaning and straightening some of the bent fins on the ac condenser.
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  #30  
Old 01-11-2010, 04:19 PM
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You can get a new Active radiator for as little as $200 if you can't afford a Behr.

I had some overheating issues this winter with my SDL. It came down to the pump or the radiator and it seemed unlikely to be the pump, so I pulled the radiator and took it to a local shop, Redford Radiator, and they cleaned it. They had to boil it three times and reverse flush it before it came clean. They said it was plugged up pretty good. It cost me $58 and was well worth it.

The SDL now runs at 80* on the nose.

I also had a Taurus wagon that was overheating. The cause was material (animal hair, lint, etc) between the a/c condensor and the radiator stopping airflow.
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'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
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