How I Filled Gear Oil on my Axles
 

After removing the old boots, draining the old oil out, shoving in the new boots and correctly fitting the new boots (trimming unneeded rubber) on the axle, position the axle so it is standing upright on a work surface. Do not clamp the new boots yet. Push it out of the way. Get the large and small clamps ready.

With the axle upright, fill the lower axle with new oil. IIRC, it took 1/2 pint or up to about half an inch filled over the gear. Once filled, reposition the boots on the axle.

Install the large clamp and the small clamp. Do not overtighten so you won't tear the boot. This completes one end.

Repeat the procedure to do the other end. I recall that all 4 axle ends took a total of 1 qt.

you just filled the cand with oil and then put the boot in place. I wonder if you got enough oil in the joints? I was thinking about clamping the large clamp on the boot and then pulling back the small end of the boot and filling it up with oil. It seems that more oil would get in the joint that way.

thanks

Clamp tool
 

Which clamp tool would I need if I were to buy the Flexx boots? I gather that they come with clamps, but are clamps universal in the sense that I might end up with the wrong clamp tool? I don't want to spend a lot on the clamp pliers. Hell, I don't want to by them at all.
Others on this forum have suggested using zip ties (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/205346-axel-cv-boot-made-easy-2.html?highlight=boot+zip+ties - posted by someone self-described as "Crazy mechanic," and that sounds crazy). One or two have suggested using a (radiator) hose clamp would be ok, despite the imbalance (this one might, too: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/251366-cv-joint-removal-all-related-info-300d.html?highlight=boot+hose+clamp, and there was another one where the poster was much more direct and even said he didn't FEEL any problems with balance, but I can't find that one anymore).
- what tool?
- can the flexx boot clamps be crimped (or whatever is done to make them stay) without a special tool?
- anybody in New York City, Western Mass, Western Connecticut, or Albany have a tool I can use?
- is using zip ties as bad an idea as it sounds?
- is using a large worm-drive hose clamp as bad an idea as it sounds?

Some place in the Forum I read that the large end a Member used a clamp similar to a hose clamp but us used on the Ducting/Hose that is in the back of a houshold Clothing Dryer to vent out the hot air.
They are are not has wide and heavy as a hose clamps but they should work fine.
For the smaller end I guess a regular hose clamp would work fine.

However they have different types of CV Boot clamps; one type has some sort of hooks that when you squeeze the clamp get caught in a recess under them.
There is also a CV Boot clamp that came in CV Boot kit I put on a Chevy Cavalier that needed no tool. You grabbed the end sticking out with a vice grips pulled it tight and bent it back the Opposite direction.
Bent back flush in the opposite direction keeps it from slipping; after that there were 2 (or 4 I do not remember) tabs that you bent over on top of the Clamp Band to crimp down and keep it from slipping.

Once the axle is in the car most of the oil is in the can anyways, as its the lowest place unless the car is loaded down a lot. Even when horizontal there's tons of oil sloshing around in there. Due to the physical nature of the spider assembly, it sloshes oil all over the place in there when turning.

Do you call $15 bucks a lot???? :rolleyes: And you can get them "on loan" from Autozone. I just went ahead and purchased them because they were only $15 bucks!! :cool:
Astoria boots come with the clamps, and they are the style that have the small hooks and the "bubble" that you crimp. Very simple, and the cheaper crimping pliers work just fine.
Come on, you have to spend "something".......

Im done. Looks pretty nice to me. Aleast I won't have to worry about them for a long time.

Let me know if anyone need to borrow the clamps pliers.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...Picture300.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...Picture298.jpg

Looks like a very nice job!! That W123 deserves nothing less.....

Than Monroe Shocks?!?!!!! :D J.K.


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1244425384

I know it.... Thats the next project, although they're still good.

Nice job...

I know u r done but in answer to your question about quantity of oil, you should have noticed the amount of oil inside the can b4 you poured it out. The can is NOT filled with oil. Only up to the level I described which came to 1/2 pint.

I think overfilling it may not be good.

- The tool which Astoria also sells is similar to the one AZ sells. The AZ tool looks beefier.
- It may be possible to crimp it without the tool but not effectively IMO.
- I'm in Michigan. The tool is only $15 in AZ
- If u r referring to the plastic zip ties, I would not do it.
- The hose clamp may work as long as it does not loosen up.

I filled up each can until it was about an inch from overflowing.

The oil that was removed was ATF.

Can you get the Astoria style clamps at Auto Zone. I take it the pliers is available there.
Also, is the lubrication of choice Valvoline synthetic ?

---------------------
1984 MB 300SD Turbo

I got the clamps at napa, the clamps that come from autozne suck.

Get the clamps that have the holes in them and 3 hooks.

I have the pliers, let me know and you can borrow them.

NAPA sells the clamp similar to the OE and Astoria. They come 2 sizes - large n small. AZ sells the pliers for these clamps but not the clamps. The clamps that come with the DOrman boots are not MB OE type. They are the ones you pull back and IMO may not get on tite.

The lubrication appeared to be gear oil like 80w90 wt. Its up to you if you use syn or dino. The condition of the old oil that came out of my axles were fairly good actually. And am sure they were not syn.

So, I am probably going to ask my father to help shove the boot on (since I'll be using his garage), and I bet he'll have an objection to soaking the boot in water. I'm sure he'll think getting moisture inside the can is bad - he's just really cautious about stuff, and it seems like water doesn't belong in there.
So, how can I assure him that it's okay? Why isn't it bad?
OR:
Why use water to warm? Why not other methods like a heat gun/hair drier? I bet because those things could dry out the rubber, which isn't a good idea before stretching.

Remember, the boot is inside out. After soaking the boot and placing it on the cone, there is plenty of opportunity to dab it dry with a cloth or paper towel. Also, way b4 you fasten the boot in-place to the can you have plenty of opportunity to dry it.

You are not soaking the can/axle. Just the boot.

I don't think heatin ghte boot does much good, I couldn't tell any difference from it being heated. I just slid them on without heat.

It does help a little, at the very least it will soften the rubber slightly and prevent the possibility of tearing.

I just completed the job today on my 300SD....it was not all that bad, its a close fit getting the axles in and out though, I had to shove the differential up as high as it would go, as well as remove the rear brake calipers.

I put 8oz of the DuraBlend 80w90 gear oil in my boots. Seems to be running nice and quiet/smooth.

I did the job (FB3000) with my father on Saturday. It took a little over an hour, start to finish, including time to trim the lip off the funnel, etc... I did use a heat gun to warm the boot, and it worked fine. We had trouble pulling down the boot while holding the axle since we didn't have a vise (se we couldn't used a fifth hand), but it was fine.

One thing that surprised me when we got the axle out is that the old boot hadn't torn like I thought. Instead, the clamp had just slipped off the lip on the can (the boot did look cracked, though). On this particular axle, which is an annular reman put on two years ago, the lip is very narrow. In other words, there is a groove that the clamp is supposed to sit in, but it's too narrow for the kinds of clamps I've seen. It was also much more narrow than the clamping region on the boot, itself. I understand that it's normal to be a little more narrow, but this was about half the width.

I'll have to keep an eye on this boot and hope for the best. If the clamp slips off, I'll probably have to do it with zip ties (which are just about the right width to fit into the aforementioned groove on the can), at least temporarily.

Further, I did buy the crimpers, but I got them used on Ebay. I paid almost as much as one would pay for a new pair, but I had the satisfaction of not directly contributing to demand for a new product from a first world company using third world labor. I found the crimping fun. I mean, I really liked it. It was so satisfying to squeeze that little thing and watch the band tighten.

My father was concerned about how the boot looked stretched out when we first got it clamped in the right spots, but once I put it on the car, it looked a little better, just as others on the forum have suggested and shown.

In all, I am grateful for this thread (and the dozens of others that have helped me learn to do seemingly scary things to keep my car strong). It's also helped me bond with my father a few times (I was visiting for father's day this time, and it was nice to spend some time on our backs looking at my axle). Thanks.

Mike

Great job, Mike.:)

Where can I buy a replacement boot? The Astoria site only has a gun style that I assume I would have to spend 3-400 on the gun to do 1 boot. Where can I get the cone style or even the 2 piece kind?

Answer
 

Use the Astoria boot:
* They are cheaper.
* They use current rubber chemical engineering technology = not antique.
* They work with an installation cone or flexx gun.

If you are only replacing a couple of boots, there is a cheaper alternative to the FLEXX gun.

Dorman 614-030 HELP! Universal Fit CV Boot Air Tool
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-614-030-HELP-Universal-Boot/dp/B000CIV4KA

will the dorman tool fit over the MB axles? it doesnot look like there is room for the axle to fit in...

Answer
 

I am buying one this week to verify.

I still have the Astoria cone... if you read this entire thread, it works well even with a Dorman boot. From my experience, I found the Dorman boot more sturdy. I'm sure the Astoria boot will work just fine. I ended up replacing it with the Dormans that I got from AZ because the Astoria got pinched and tore as I was reinstalling the axle. Its just the way the Astoria accordions. The Dormans do not accordion as much.

The Astoria cone is about $20 IIRC from Astoria. For the frequency the job is done, I can't justify the gun.

Well, Where can I buy boot/cone? I do not want the air tool I have only one to replace.

The Dormans should be available at Advanced Auto .. or just google them.

Astoria boots are available directly from them. Toll free # on their site.

http://www.astoria2000.com/main.html

There are at least 2 Astoria's for rent here with mine being one of them.

Answer
 

http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products/products.cfm?categoryID=5419

http://www.google.com/images?um=1&hl=en&rls=com.microsoft%3Aen-us&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=cv+boot+cone+tool&btnG=Search&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=

Astro Pneumatic CV Boot Installer Kit.

Astro Pneumatic and Astoria are different companies.

I have one of the Astro Pneumatic CV Boot Installers but have never used it. It is difficult to measure the OD of the Axle when it is on the car but the Inside Diameter of the Cone does appear to be slightly smaller than the Axle so without some mod the Cone is not going to slide over the Axle CAN.
But if I remember correctly the OD of the Cone is slighly larger than the CAN on the Axle.
I got it here
http://www.toolrage.com/prodview.asp?sku=AST-7831

Any of these ship to Canada I wonder. Will anyone that rents ship to Canada?

CH, I believe there is only one way to find out..... looks like all the contact info has been spelled out....

The Dorman gun will work with the MB axle.

CV boot replacement video
 

heres a video of replacing a CV boot using a cone:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F17tFS6ofzU

astoria2000video1.avi
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8XNahsND5w

Thanks for this great thread!

I am prepping materials (Im going to use the Dormans) to try to minimize downtime.

Can I get a cone at AutoZone/Advance/Napa? I called Astoria but they said I could just make something up and didn't want me to waste my money paying for shipping.

Got my Dorman boots. Got a cone at autozone.

Can I get better CV boot straps at autozone? The ones that come with Dormans are the solid style that folks in this thread say suck. I dont want to install ones that suck :-)

I used a long funnel that I got from Schucks years ago n it work fine as long as it & the boot r soaked for a few minutes in hot water (I made it hotter than my hand can stand in it more than a few seconds). The troubling area is at that inch or so of the narrow part of the boot so u should fold it in half or so to get a good grip. U also wanna make sure that the cone is well submerged (I submerged 3/4 of the cone in a tall stock pot) n that both the cone & the boot r submerged in plenty of water so they get enough heat transfer to. Don't allow them to contract by submerging them too long(remove it once the heat of the system began to subside). Work quickly while they r still hot & flexible. As long as there will b enough room, 3 people might make this job easier, one hold the axle, one pull on the boot n one help pushing boot down from the top. And of course lots of lube.

One thing I wonder is no one here mention about Doorman's outer boot that will never fit(too big). I ended up using the inner Doorman boot also for the outer joint. I'd say just get Febi, I saw that it has the same original design, 21$ @ Cars Part Discount. I bought 3 or 4 Doorman products and 2 of them didn't fit(the 1st flaw was its upper control arm). No more Doorman for me.

Does this technique apply to rear axle boots as well. I may be a little dull, but I cant seem to get a clear understanding of how the boots are being handled with the cone in the pictures and description. Are they being shoved in from above and squeezed through the small opening? Or is the cone only used to push them through the can? Or over the can?

I have a replacement FEBI boot kit for a rear axle 85 300TD W123. It also came with a new can. Is it worth replacing it as well? any DIYs that include that process?
Thanks all
EDIT: I just read this persons DIY: http://boostnbenz.1baddsm.com/DIY/CVboots/

Im wondering now about an axle replacement. Ive been driving on a torn boot since last spring at least. I dont notice any noise however and the movement of the joint still seems OK. The other outer boot (left side) looks intact but has lost its oil. I may try a boot replacement on that one and replace the whole axle on the right side.

Is there any way to know by feel or sound (with the car jacked up already and wheels, rotors removed and axle out of the hub) if there is wear? Whats the worst that can happen with a worn CV joint if it were reassembled with a new boot?

Thanks again
Michael

Answer
 

CV BOOT MADE EASY - YouTube


.

As just having done this a few days ago on my own 300TD I can help you, although the posted video will probably convey it more clearly.

My method has been:
-soak a boot in close to boiling water for 5+ min
-shake excess water from boot and add the next boot to the water
-apply a small amount of gear oil to cone and spread it around
-take two small paper towel sections, one in each hand and fold a bit of the larger end of the cone around my fingers (imagine putting on nylons, that type of hold.... not that I have ever put on nylons)
-the halfshaft is already held vertically on a bench
-with your third hand put the cone on the axle
-position the boot on the top of the cone
-with one quick motion pull the boot down the cone and over the axle can

DONE.

Pledge on the cone works much better than oil. :D We use mountain fresh.

Also works great for beating subframe bushings and trailing arm bushings into place. :D :eek:

I don't think the FEBI boots will work with the cone. They are much more rigid and will probably not expand to go over the cone.

That bites. I was banking on the slip on method. I already have all the parts and cone.

they are quite rigid boots but I guess i have noting to compare them to so I wouldnt know.

Anyone else have experience with FEBI boots?

So if the cone method is good, I Imagine that would negate the need for replacing the cans?
I think I could have ordered an inner boot without the kit for almost half the price.

Anyone try the cone method with Febi Boots?
Also, is it necessary to replace the can?
Thanks

If you have Annular Axles some have said the Stock type Boots can be changed by removing the Annular End. I have had no experience with that.

Otherwise with stock Boots you need to do the below:
AXLE Boot Link cutting the CANS
http://boostnbenz.1baddsm.com/DIY/CVboots/

Only the Astoria Flexx Boots and the similar Dorman Boots are made to be used with an Cone or the Astoria Flexx Boot expanding tool.

Where to Find Axle Boots, Astoria Flexx Boots
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=2341902&highlight=Astoria+Flexx+Boot#post2341902

Oh, Thats some of the best news I heard in a while. I have annular axles it appears. I only see bolts however on the inner/differential side. My guess is that i would have to remove them from the differential in order to deal with them.

When you fill the can with oil withen 1/2 inch from the top and turn the shaft over to fill the other end, is the oil going to run out of the can into the boot?
So if that happens how does the oil get back into the can to lubricate the joint?
I have to wonder if the spinning axle will act like a centrifuge and the oil work its way beck into the can Does that make sense?
I don't see how you would be able to get your finger inside the can to pack the grease into the joint.
I am doing mine this week. So I am studying all my options here.

A couple weeks ago I installed a set of axles from a parts car. Switched sides as some have suggested. Right side inner joint came apart these were good axles that did have nasty looking cracks on the outer ridges. I did lay a bead of silicone on the top of the ridges. I wonder if I made a mistake by reversing sides.
I do have a 124K parts car. It is showing age cracks on the boots. So I am going to do them before the install.

Thanks to everyone for this thread!


Tom

Answer
 

Each axle joint is a sealed container = when you roll a half full coke bottle what happens to the liquid?

The joint needs approximately 50% air space for splash lubrication and cooling.


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