Originally Posted by azitizz (Post 2849551)

Does this technique apply to rear axle boots as well. I may be a little dull, but I cant seem to get a clear understanding of how the boots are being handled with the cone in the pictures and description. Are they being shoved in from above and squeezed through the small opening? Or is the cone only used to push them through the can? Or over the can?

I have a replacement FEBI boot kit for a rear axle 85 300TD W123. It also came with a new can. Is it worth replacing it as well? any DIYs that include that process?
Thanks all
EDIT: I just read this persons DIY: Changing CV Boots for your W123 Mercedes-Benz.

Im wondering now about an axle replacement. Ive been driving on a torn boot since last spring at least. I dont notice any noise however and the movement of the joint still seems OK. The other outer boot (left side) looks intact but has lost its oil. I may try a boot replacement on that one and replace the whole axle on the right side.

Is there any way to know by feel or sound (with the car jacked up already and wheels, rotors removed and axle out of the hub) if there is wear? Whats the worst that can happen with a worn CV joint if it were reassembled with a new boot?

Thanks again
Michael

Originally Posted by azitizz (Post 2849551)

Does this technique apply to rear axle boots as well. I may be a little dull, but I cant seem to get a clear understanding of how the boots are being handled with the cone in the pictures and description. Are they being shoved in from above and squeezed through the small opening? Or is the cone only used to push them through the can? Or over the can?

I have a replacement FEBI boot kit for a rear axle 85 300TD W123. It also came with a new can. Is it worth replacing it as well? any DIYs that include that process?
Thanks all
EDIT: I just read this persons DIY: Changing CV Boots for your W123 Mercedes-Benz.

Im wondering now about an axle replacement. Ive been driving on a torn boot since last spring at least. I dont notice any noise however and the movement of the joint still seems OK. The other outer boot (left side) looks intact but has lost its oil. I may try a boot replacement on that one and replace the whole axle on the right side.

Is there any way to know by feel or sound (with the car jacked up already and wheels, rotors removed and axle out of the hub) if there is wear? Whats the worst that can happen with a worn CV joint if it were reassembled with a new boot?

Thanks again
Michael

Originally Posted by tobybul (Post 2850353)

I don't think the FEBI boots will work with the cone. They are much more rigid and will probably not expand to go over the cone.

Originally Posted by azitizz (Post 2853277)

Anyone try the cone method with Febi Boots?
Also, is it necessary to replace the can?
Thanks

Originally Posted by Diesel911 (Post 2853563)

If you have Annular Axles some have said the Stock type Boots can be changed by removing the Annular End. I have had no experience with that.

Otherwise with stock Boots you need to do the below:
AXLE Boot Link cutting the CANS
http://boostnbenz.1baddsm.com/DIY/CVboots/

Only the Astoria Flexx Boots and the similar Dorman Boots are made to be used with an Cone or the Astoria Flexx Boot expanding tool.

Where to Find Axle Boots, Astoria Flexx Boots
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=2341902&highlight=Astoria+Flexx+Boot#post2341902

Originally Posted by gozapper (Post 2867223)

When you fill the can with oil withen 1/2 inch from the top and turn the shaft over to fill the other end, is the oil going to run out of the can into the boot?
So if that happens how does the oil get back into the can to lubricate the joint?
I have to wonder if the spinning axle will act like a centrifuge and the oil work its way beck into the can Does that make sense?
I don't see how you would be able to get your finger inside the can to pack the grease into the joint.
I am doing mine this week. So I am studying all my options here.

A couple weeks ago I installed a set of axles from a parts car. Switched sides as some have suggested. Right side inner joint came apart these were good axles that did have nasty looking cracks on the outer ridges. I did lay a bead of silicone on the top of the ridges. I wonder if I made a mistake by reversing sides.
I do have a 124K parts car. It is showing age cracks on the boots. So I am going to do them before the install.

Thanks to everyone for this thread!


Tom

Originally Posted by gozapper (Post 2867472)

Each axle joint is a sealed container = when you roll a half full coke bottle what happens to the liquid?

The joint needs approximately 50% air space for splash lubrication and cooling.


Yes that is correct, but you are turning the axle shaft upside down
to fill the other end, so then the can you had just filled runs out of the can into the boot!

Tom

Originally Posted by Diesel911 (Post 2473592)

Astro Pneumatic CV Boot Installer Kit.

Astro Pneumatic and Astoria are different companies.

I have one of the Astro Pneumatic CV Boot Installers but have never used it. It is difficult to measure the OD of the Axle when it is on the car but the Inside Diameter of the Cone does appear to be slightly smaller than the Axle so without some mod the Cone is not going to slide over the Axle CAN.
But if I remember correctly the OD of the Cone is slighly larger than the CAN on the Axle.
I got it here
Astro Pneumatic 7831 - CV Boot Installer AST-7831 AST7831 AST 7831