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#1
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buy some r12 or convert to 134a?
my car has not been converted yet and i noticed on ebay they sell r12 on there so i was wondering if i should buy the r12 or if i should do a 134a conversion? i have ac manifold gauges and a vac pump to evacuate the system (along with alot of other tools) so i was wondering what would be the best route to take? and if i do convert it what do i need to do on my 85 300td td to properly do so? and where are the ports? i know theres one right in your face when you open the hood but where is the other one?
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1985 mercedes benz 300D turbo diesel 1998 VW GTI VR6 1996 VW GTI 2.0 1999 saab 9-3 turbo 1987 300sdl (sold) |
#2
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I think the most common answer is going to be R-12 if you can get it. The topic of refrigerants gets heated (hehe) here sometimes.
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On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST 1983 300SD - 305000 1984 Toyota Landcruiser - 190000 1994 GMC Jimmy - 203000 https://media.giphy.com/media/X3nnss8PAj5aU/giphy.gif Last edited by cmbdiesel; 04-25-2009 at 04:47 PM. Reason: removed typo |
#3
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Quote:
Quote:
The high side port is located behind the alternator.
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System |
#4
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R-12. Hands down, no question.
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Bob '82 300D Petrol B-G Metallic |
#5
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iv charged many cars with my manifold gauges using 134, what do i have to do to charge the system with r12? is it pretty much the same as doing 134? also does the compressor only kick in if i have the r12 in there? thats how it is on all r134a cars iv done...
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1985 mercedes benz 300D turbo diesel 1998 VW GTI VR6 1996 VW GTI 2.0 1999 saab 9-3 turbo 1987 300sdl (sold) |
#6
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R-12 just ain't that hard to find.
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Palangi 2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz 2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser 2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg 2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE 0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE |
#7
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If it is still R-12 system you just have to have the correct ends on your guage lines..
If your car has the proper low pressure switch on the reciever dryer ( or close to it ) for safety cut off of the compressor in case of refrigerant leak then it will need to be jumped for insertion ( usually how it is done)... and the safer method... It is pretty much the same... but do not overfill..... that is the kiss of death for efficiency. Lots of great threads in the archives.... But the bigger question for the long term happiness with your car is why it is needing any refrigerant... do you really need to check for and fix leaks before you put any R12 in ? That 609 license is an OPEN BOOK test taken over the internet which only costs about $20 the last time I looked.... so that should not be a problem...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#8
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Would a 85 300D have this? Do you have to jumper it out after pulling a vacuum and refilling?
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85 300D Turbo |
#9
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I only pretend to be an expert on the type one MB system...the very simplest....
but that is a normal switch to have for the protection of the compressor... it may or may not be on the actual receiver dryer on your car... someone with one of those cars will probably speak up... Since it works by cutting off electricity to the compressor when the pressure is low you may want to jump it to fill the system... You really have a lot more reading and studying to do before you can do this both safely and efficiently..... based on these basic questions.... you do not want to have to start over... or have a really short compressor life, etc.. Did you answer the question about why your system needs refrigerant ? I.E., do you have a leak that needs to be fixed first... if yes, there are specific procedures for flushing, replacing the orings, checking for leaks, etc...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#10
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R12, cost is only marginally higher and leathermang said it about the test, it's a joke.
I tried Freeze 12 in my 300sel last year and the 560, they cool so-so. At idle they really drop off performance.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#11
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Stick with R12. You won't be satisfied with anything else.
I decided to go ahead and take the test this evening and within 30 minutes I had my certificate. Cost me $19.95. 2 of my cars still have R12 so I'm now legit to buy the good stuff to keep them cool.
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Joe ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1980 300SD - 495k miles - 'The Ambassador' ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Former Family Members 95 C280 73 280SEL 90 300D 87 300SDL (X2) 86 560SEL 84 300D 80 300SD |
#12
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Stay with the R-12 system. The fittings on your car are known as 1/4 inch flare. The cost of converting to R134 far exceeds the price of R-12.
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#13
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In defense of ' the test'....
I have taken a lot of government required tests over the years... Most of them are in the realm of seeing if you are actually able to read and understand the rules and regulations for that particular area of their jurisdiction... You will have those rules available to look at when you are going about your business... and since those things change over the years they just want to know that you have no excuses if they catch you violating the rules... Like " you gave me a license without checking to see if I could read ".....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#14
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Fix the leaks first - R12 is too expensive and too unfriendly to the environment to let it escape. There is a procedure in the archieves to put in 2 oz of R22 and then pressurize with nitrogen to find the leaks.
Q. If you evacuate the system, can't you add the required amount of R12 by weight with the car not running? After the required amount is added, do you still need to jump the switch? I thought it would then kick in with the right charge.
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Charles 1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/296386-fs-1-owner-83-mb-300d-turbo-rebuild-parts.html |
#15
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It is four ounces which is allowed by the EPA of the R22...
You may can add all of it without turning on the compressor... but it might take a long time....and almost certainly would need the help of warm water under the can... if you are up to pressure you do not need to jump the switch....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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