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  #16  
Old 04-30-2009, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lietuviai View Post
aaahhh.. I have neglected to see the "A" bolt next to #18... bet that is what I have overlooked.

Hope to report back some success.
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  #17  
Old 04-30-2009, 11:06 AM
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The combination of one ' small ' bolt.... plus the gasket cement can be powerful...
In the past I have too often gone to the larger ' hammer' too fast... which causes a lot of damage when you have 'powerful hammers' ....
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  #18  
Old 04-30-2009, 12:05 PM
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I think after all the effort is made in removing the head without removing all the bolts, the head comes off quite easily after the mysterious bolt is found.
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  #19  
Old 05-01-2009, 06:44 PM
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This should not be that hard....

Ok I have confirmed that all 22 head bolts are out, and the smaller hex key bolt from the timing chain galley area are out, and have been the whole time..

HOW much force is required to break the head gasket seal??? I have been using a 16 oz ball pein hammer, with a block of wood.. split the 2X4, and decided that was enough to have broken it loose. . . which is not yet the case.

is this a case of get a bigger hammer?? or could i be missing something?
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  #20  
Old 05-01-2009, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by JDmills View Post
or could i be missing something?
Yes, you're missing the engine hoist............
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  #21  
Old 05-01-2009, 06:51 PM
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Carefully striking the cylinder head did it for me

Based on removing the cylinder head from my ’83 300CD-T (Calif.) just over two years ago - a job for which Brian Carlton's advice was incredibly helpful:

I had the same problem. After determining conclusively that all bolts were removed and there was nothing whatsoever but a 25 year old head gasket and gunk keeping the cylinder head in place…

I used my engine hoist (bought especially for replacing the cylinder head) and (if memory serves me) attached a sturdy chain from it to three (or was it four?) points on the cylinder head. I applied a *moderate* amount of upward (pulling) pressure using the hoist, took a piece of sturdy lumber and repeatedly used my medium-sized sledge hammer to pop the wood/head from various vantage points. After 20-30 strikes as I recall, the head was released from the block. BE CAREFUL: when the head comes loose, it will pop up due to the tension applied by the chain/hoist. KEEP YOUR HEAD SUFFICIENTLY CLEAR OF THE CYLINDER HEAD AS YOU ARE STRIKING THE LATTER.
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  #22  
Old 05-01-2009, 07:02 PM
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Did you remove exhaust manifold or keeping it on?

If you have the manifold still connected to the head, it's attached to the mounting arm of the engine mount (item #47). There are two bolts that hold this, but I think you'll only need to remove one. They get very rusty though.

If the manifold is off, you may also try to slide the block by taking a pry bar and placing it between the bolt on top of the water pump and the head (iirc there's a slight bump on the head that you can pry against).

Good luck,
bigmaq
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617 head removal... what am I missing?-pic1.jpg  
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  #23  
Old 05-01-2009, 09:25 PM
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B.C.

Yeah.. and I don't have one. Yet your suggestion was right on the mark. lifted streight up, and it came off fairly easy. Thanks for your suggestions, help and support.

Jason
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  #24  
Old 05-01-2009, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by JDmills View Post
B.C.

Yeah.. and I don't have one. Yet your suggestion was right on the mark. lifted streight up, and it came off fairly easy. Thanks for your suggestions, help and support.

Jason
Good job.

When I did it, I knew that my back couldn't manage that task, so I arranged to borrow one. I kept it for the better part of four months while the head was redone.
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  #25  
Old 05-01-2009, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
there was a distinct lip at the point where the rings reach to in the cylinder....is that normal?
Yes, that is how a bore naturally wears... if you can believe it that is actually metal moved from the bore and deposited there.....
When taking the pistons out the top of the block that is typically removed by a ' ridge reamer'... available at most local part shops for loaning or renting out...
If you attempt to take a piston and rings past that ridge you are taking the chance on breaking a land on the piston...
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  #26  
Old 05-02-2009, 07:56 AM
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That ridge also normally has a component of hard carbon, so what looks like a lot sometimes when cleaned is a lot less.

On getting the head off I use a pry bar, but I would NOT pry against the water pump housing since its aluminum and would easly be fractured. If you search around the block you normally can find a good place to pry thats cast into the iron block....prying by pushing on the iron head and iron block is pretty safe.
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