602.9XX Banana Rail R&R - Remove Crank Pulley?! - Tell me it Ain't so Ma! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

sasquatchgeoff · #1 04-30-2009, 10:41 PM

Preparing to change T/C rails (all) in OM602.911 - while reading the FSM it says T/C cover needs to be removed, OK - go to (01-210) and...

- Preliminary operations:
Engine compartment capsule, bottom section removed (01-006).
Radiator removed (20-420). - check
Magnetic or viscodrive fan clutch removed (20-335, 20-312). - check
Crankshaft pulley and hub removed (03-341). - what!?
Poly-V-belt tensioning device removed (13-345). - check
Piston vacuum pump removed (43-618).
Power steerng pump or tandem pump removed (46-710).
Hydraulic pump on cylinder head removed (05437).
Alternator removed (15-510).
Engine Oil drained.

Any way around this? It looks pretty complicated to get that thing back on and still be able to see where TDC is. I may as well have pulled the engine...

Any help appreciated...

- geoff

mbdoc · #2 05-01-2009, 09:27 AM

Yes that is required on any OM60_series engine.

Hopefully you can remove the lower pin that the rail rides on, OR the head will have to be removed as well!

sasquatchgeoff · #3 05-01-2009, 09:35 AM

Thanks - I am in the process of rebuilding the top end, all brought on by oil in the coolant - so the head is coming off anyway. For a second there I was worried that pulling the engine is mandatory as well, but I think I can manage by just pulling the crank pulley and getting the T/C guide rails out to replace. Hopefully, further inspection will not mandate repairs that require removal of the engine. The Timing case cover and the oil pan gasket junction is a region that I am worried about getting perfect upon re-install.

JonL · #4 05-01-2009, 11:16 AM

Yes, it's true. It's a PITA, and MB could've designed it so the rail could come out without removing the cover first.

I don't know why you are concerned about the crank pulley in particular. There's nothing about timing involved... it only goes on one way. You'll need to keep the engine from turning somehow to get the bolt removed and installed. That's a trick without the special tool.

JonL · #5 05-01-2009, 11:18 AM

PS... I was concerned about the joints between the timing cover and block and pan also. The FSM calls for Hylomar. I would've normally used RTV (silicone), but I followed the manual and used Hylomar. About 5k miles so far, no leaks.

sasquatchgeoff · #6 05-02-2009, 03:43 PM

well, I finally got to my tensioner rail to see wear/tear and here are pics. Bottm line, I don't want to have to replace it if it is not necessary. The engine has 247K. I have determined that I should replace the chain - 3-1/2 degrees out from TDC - because I don't want to have to deal with it in about 70K miles.

Question is, should I pull the timing cover and replace the tensioner rail?

Thanks in advance for any help...