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  #16  
Old 05-07-2009, 05:52 PM
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Well I went to the junkyard today and was able to find a nice replacement for just over $50. So now a couple more questions. Is there an easy way to find TDC with the crank off? Is there a way to look at the lobe positions under the oil cap to at least get a ballpark guess.
Also a couple weeks ago I ordered the crank alignment pins for this from the dealer in anticipation of putting the old one on. Well when I got the one from the JY the pins were as I thought they should look like, short drill blanks. The ones I got from the dealer were all tapered up woodruff keys, did they give me the wrong ones or is this a design change? I will be using the round one, I was just curious.

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  #17  
Old 05-07-2009, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by offalot View Post
Well I went to the junkyard today and was able to find a nice replacement for just over $50. So now a couple more questions. Is there an easy way to find TDC with the crank off? Is there a way to look at the lobe positions under the oil cap to at least get a ballpark guess.
Also a couple weeks ago I ordered the crank alignment pins for this from the dealer in anticipation of putting the old one on. Well when I got the one from the JY the pins were as I thought they should look like, short drill blanks. The ones I got from the dealer were all tapered up woodruff keys, did they give me the wrong ones or is this a design change? I will be using the round one, I was just curious.
Sounds like the dealer got you the wrong ones.
Will you be replacing the front crank oil seal too?

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #18  
Old 05-07-2009, 06:05 PM
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$50..? thats plain robbery from a junkyard.


to get a rough estimate of TDC (assuming your engine is timed correctly) - set the lobes so they are both pointing up on the camshaft. Roughly 10 and 2 o'clock.
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  #19  
Old 05-07-2009, 06:07 PM
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I probably should huh? but damnit, that will delay me another day (if not more if the local parts shop doesnt have it) from getting this thing going.
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  #20  
Old 05-07-2009, 06:30 PM
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Pull the seal, check the wear ring for a ridge, if there is one, consider replacing that. I have a puller to do so if you need it.

You'll need to have the replacement balancer matched to the old one. I'd definatelly dicker on the price. I got a replacement 616 engine for 350.
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  #21  
Old 05-08-2009, 11:02 PM
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Can anyone answer my question about how to find TDC?
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  #22  
Old 05-09-2009, 02:03 AM
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line up the mark on your camshaft to the line on the camshaft tower. You should be within 10* of TDC
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  #23  
Old 05-09-2009, 08:19 AM
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line up the mark on your camshaft to the line on the camshaft tower. You should be within 10* of TDC
So I have to remove the valve cover?
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  #24  
Old 05-09-2009, 09:25 AM
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So I have to remove the valve cover?
Unless you can check the position of the #1 cylinder cam-lobes. On my'84 300TD, they're visible through the oil filler hole.
If they're both pointed upwards in approximately a shallow V position, that should indicate #1 cylinder TDC at the end of the compression-stroke.

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  #25  
Old 05-09-2009, 09:48 AM
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You can tell TDC from BDC through the filler hole.
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82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times
It's hard to
more likely to
concentrate on
have an accident
two things
when you're on
at the same time.
a cell phone.


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  #26  
Old 01-19-2010, 10:38 PM
macdoe
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
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There is only one way to properly put the damper hub on the crankshaft. The dowel holes are NOT 180 degrees apart. Close but not quite. If you can see the difference after trying it both ways then you should'nt have to worry about timing marks/dowels.

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