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#16
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So I ended up buying the JTC coil spring compressor off eBay.
Actually, first what I did is try both the hook-type coil spring compressor and the strut spring compressor (comes in pairs for one spring). And of course, neither would fit onto the spring. I then found someone on Kijiji selling an old Moog plate-type coil spring compressor for $25. It came with four different sizes of plates so I figured there would be a set in there that would work. Unfortunately, when I tried it, the plates were too thick. So that's going up for sale soon. So I got the JTC compressor from eBay, got the first spring out, and changed my driver's side strut with no problems. The control arm is not coming loose and I busted a 3/8" ratchet (the only size I had) trying to break the nuts. Rather than buy a breaker bar and hope it works, I'm going to take it to a shop to have them do the control arms. Or I would, except... When compressing the spring on the passenger side, the spring sheared and broke. I have one-plus-a-bit of coil sitting broken on the control arm pushing up against the rest of the spring in the compressor. I finished changing the strut, but I can't loosen that spring with the broken piece sitting right in there. Does anyone have any suggestions? Should I try to compress the spring a little more (there's a little slack left), then tap the broken piece out? Should I push the compressed spring up into the spring "tower" to loosen the tension on the broken coil? I'm ordering new springs online right now and I think I'll have to put them in myself, just so I can get the car to the shop to have them do the control arms (and the alignment).
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1995 E300D, 253000+ km - babied by PO, let's hope I do the same... 1989 190D 2.5, 450000+km - first MB I've owned. Bought at 396000km, and now parked. |
#17
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I had to remove a broken spring last summer (Front coil spring snapped while driving...). It sounds like it broke in the same place as yours.
To remove the broken bit, I had to compress the spring as much as possible, shift it a bit, release it, reposition the tool, and repeat about 5 or 6 times. It was a pain but it worked... Initially it wasn't possible to get the tool in the right place to compress the spring enough to remove it, but after getting the broken bit out and letting the spring expand back into its original location (centered on the hole in the control arm), it could be done. If you're still in the mood to do some further suspension repairs once you get the spring fixed, I found that two big sources of annoying rattles were the rear sway bar links and the front sway bar bushings. They're cheap and easy to replace. If you get a breaker bar (or an impact wrench; princess auto has one on for $64.99 right now, SKU 8130288) then you should be able to get those stuck bolts undone and finish the project. I've borrowed that particular model of impact wrench from a friend before and it worked well. Good luck!
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1989 250TD Wagon 5-speed, 160,000mi ::: Dark gray metallic / black cloth 1984 190D-2.2 5-speed, 287,000mi ::: Silver-blue metallic / black MB-tex ::: SOLD |
#18
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Awesome advice. Thanks very much.
I think I'll replace the springs first, then worry about whether I want to continue doing the control arms. I wanted to do the work myself at least *once*, just so I'd know how much work it was. As for the sway bar bushings, *thank you*. I had no idea that the sway bar was called a sway bar (I figured it was just a big metal pole of some sort and couldn't figure out its actual name). I'll get some bushings for that too, since they're pretty beaten up.
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1995 E300D, 253000+ km - babied by PO, let's hope I do the same... 1989 190D 2.5, 450000+km - first MB I've owned. Bought at 396000km, and now parked. |
#19
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OK, received my new springs and sway bar bushings. It took three minutes to remove the broken spring, I just had to tighten the compressor a little more, then rotate, rotate, rotate until it came loose.
Getting it back on was a bit more of a trick. Apparently, the trick is to put the bottom plate about 1.5 coil from the bottom, then put the top plate about 8 coils up from it. Slide it in place, rotate, rotate, rotate, and we're in! It took about 45 minutes to get right (after wasting three hours of trying to find the right coils to put the compressor on. The sway bar was easy enough to get off, but more tricky to get on. The old bushings came off easily, but took a lot of twisting to get on properly. Since I only had three new ones, I used the best of the old ones on one end of the sway bar. About 1.5 hours of messing around and getting the bushings in the right spot. Wheels back on, and I went for a spin. Sensational. I also purchased a big electric impact wrench and impact sockets cheap at Canadian Tire ($50 for each this week), but I couldn't get a good angle on the rear-facing nuts on each side of the control arms (I still had the springs off at this point). I'm just going to take it to a shop, have them do the control arms and alignment (and a rear wheel bushing), and be done with it. The rear shocks will wait for another day - maybe in a few months. I'll probably do the rear control arms too and then get *another* alignment. Apparently, Firestone in the USA will do lifetime alignments - pay once and get alignments whenever you want. Anyone heard of a company offering that in Canada? EDIT: The shop replaced my control arms and did the alignment. It feels pretty good - better than before - but I still have a little clunk under the LF wheel when I rotate the steering to full lock turning left (and only then). Not sure why this is. When there's no snow, I'll take a better look at it.
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1995 E300D, 253000+ km - babied by PO, let's hope I do the same... 1989 190D 2.5, 450000+km - first MB I've owned. Bought at 396000km, and now parked. Last edited by tuxbeej; 12-01-2009 at 10:54 PM. |
#20
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question about your suspension work
Hi
I have a 1984 190d - just replaced the struts, dampeners, control arms (w ball joints and new dampeners) center link, tracking arms. trying to do a comprehensive job. I used monroe sensa track struts. all done - but now the front ends is noticible higher (!) by about 2" does it "settle down in time" or some thing? - I didn't replace the springs but had them out and inspected them. Is there an adjustment on the struts to make the push less? it looks odd to be up higher - followed instructions on the refit very carefully and now I'm getting ready to do the back end suspension (project car) any advice notes are sure appreciated thanks gordon |
#21
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Greetings, eh?
I used Bilstein's 'Comfort' struts when I did my rebuild and I didn't notice that my stance was higher. I also replaced my springs and my strut mounts at the same time. Put together, all of that should've made the car sit higher in the front, but I'm not really seeing it. I would doubt that the Monroes are roughly 2" longer than OEM, but I don't know what else would affect the geometry that much (especially if you haven't changed your springs). Could it be that the previous struts were so worn out that the car was sitting lower? Good luck with it. Hope someone else can chime in. Maybe try starting another topic and see if anyone can contribute.
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1995 E300D, 253000+ km - babied by PO, let's hope I do the same... 1989 190D 2.5, 450000+km - first MB I've owned. Bought at 396000km, and now parked. |
#22
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Hi Thanks . . .
I set the new struts next to the old ones and they sure looked the same (but much cleaner!) I'm wondering if the hex wrench fitting on top of the strut (that shows through the top of the dampener) can be turned in and out to adjust the "length" or something . . . I'll keep poking around - hate to pull them off the car - it's actually more like 3.5 inches higher thanks gordon |
#23
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Sorry I can't be of any help. I don't think Monroe Sensa-tracs are adjustable at all.
You may just want to start another topic for advice on this one.
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1995 E300D, 253000+ km - babied by PO, let's hope I do the same... 1989 190D 2.5, 450000+km - first MB I've owned. Bought at 396000km, and now parked. |
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