trying to time by the drip method DIY. been trying to get to the 4th bolt on the back of the ip to loosen it for like an hour now. starting to get frustrated. any advice on getting at it good.

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1996 E300 110,000
1985 300TD 212,000
1980 300D 238,000

I used a standard 13mm Craftsman wrench to get at mine. It turns only a fraction of an inch each time due to clearance problems. Just be patient and turn it a little at a time.

Scott

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Scott
1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)

yep

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Jim

X3, patience grasshopper!

Sometimes removing the rack damper bolt helps.

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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DIY shows getting at that bolt from the top. I could not do it. I was able to get it from the side in between the oil cooler lines with a stubby 13mm open end wrench.

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1996 E300 110,000
1985 300TD 212,000
1980 300D 238,000

This is the 85? The rack sensor is right in the way to hit that nut.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

yes 85 Cali. but thats not the bolt i was having issues with. i could get to the one under the rack sensor with socket and short extension. It was the bolt in the rear, attaching it to the mounting bracket that was a total PITA. had to cut the box end off a cheapy 13mm so I could get to it from in between the oil cooler lines and have room to turn it. Maybe could get to it from the top with a really long 13mm wrench. Done now. Set to 26* looking forward to some increased mpg hopefully !

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1996 E300 110,000
1985 300TD 212,000
1980 300D 238,000

I had to modify a long 13mm box wrench for this task. The head of that bolt needs a slight offset forward to put the top of the wrench right between the pump and the oil filter housing. An offset of about 1" worked well. The rack damper bolt had to be removed as well otherwise there is no room to swing the wrench.

A fine tooth ratchet wrench is ideal for this job.

tried that. not enough room to get the ratcheting box end on to the bolt head. At least not on my 85.

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1996 E300 110,000
1985 300TD 212,000
1980 300D 238,000

Mine and another member's '85 are completely missing this rear mount. I wouldn't be surprised if they are completely removed at dealerships or MB service stations.

try going directly for the bolts that go into the block.

or, once all the other bolts are loosened... it should easily rotate with some force... it might actually help control your movements when you are doing the actual deed.

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When I did mine I cheated.
looking up from down below you can see the lower part of the rear IP Bracket that has 2 bolts that bolt the bracket onto the Engine Block.
I removed those 2 bolts.
When I rotated the IP towards the Engine Block to advance the timing the Bracket below rotated away from the Engine Block.
When I was done timing the IP I went down below with a Punch and Hammer and tapped the bracket back against the block. Tapping the Bracket back that direction would tend to loosen the 1 Bolt to the rear of the IP. I re-installed the 2 Bracket Bolts and was done.
I did not bother to try to tighten the 1 rear IP bolt.
For better or worse that is what I did.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel