Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 05-07-2009, 11:14 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 18,355
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bajaman View Post
Don't de-emphasize the usefulness of a hammer either. Hammering the side of the spindle, ackerman or whatever your working on while applying pressure with the separating tool does wonders.
I've always got them out this way without heat. On ball joints I use about a 6-8' prybar putting pressure on the joint to separate. I then hit the outside of the fitting 3 or 4 times with a 3-4lb sledgehammer. Never had that method fail.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 05-07-2009, 11:35 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: West of Ft. Worth. TX
Posts: 4,145
I agree with the tool suggested by Mo-Betta. Sometimes I think what happens is applying extreme end pressure to the threaded portion, especially with a hammer, can cause the tapered portion to bulge and make removal a next-to-impossible proposition. This is my suspicion on a ball joint that I fought for two days, not that long ago. I had to resort to drilling the threaded shaft to make the "walls" weak enough to break it free.
__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 05-07-2009, 12:31 PM
Hatterasguy's Avatar
Zero
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Milford, CT
Posts: 19,306
Quote:
Originally Posted by awsrock View Post
I did soak it in PB yesterday, so maybe it will help more that it has sat overnight..PB works like that I guess. I remember a nut that was impossible to move that was like butter after sitting in PB for a day.

Seriously, I just want to go get my alignment (which is why I am doing the tie rod) so that way I can go to a far away junkyard to get a new bumper. Guh. That, and my gf gets mad at my car for wandering all over the place on the highway
If your letting it soak keep spraying it with PB. That stuff does work, if you give it time.
__________________
2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ
2007 Tiara 3200

"No free man shall ever be debarred the use of arms. The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government."
-Thomas Jefferson
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 05-07-2009, 01:11 PM
BodhiBenz1987's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: East Coast
Posts: 3,005
Quote:
Originally Posted by awsrock View Post
Also, once out, will the new tie rods go into place simply by tightening the nut, or will I need to force those in there too? I would think that just tightening would be enough, but after this ordeal, I am starting to question more things..
Just screw on the nuts. Torque should be 26 ft/lb if you have a torque wrench. It will pull the tapered portion into place securely. When you start turning the nut, you'll probably need to hold the threaded part secure using an allen wrench on the end so it doesn't spin as you wrench. After a few turns it holds and you can just wrench it tight.
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--14,500 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 05-07-2009, 01:23 PM
Phil's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Sonoma County, California
Posts: 1,062
If you try a pickle fork it is important to use the correct size. The first time I used one on my car it was not the right size and I never got the joint to separate but then I tried a fork that fit properly and it only took 3 or 4 hits to separate. As stated if you push on the end of the threaded portion it can cause it to tighten in the taper but a pickle fork stretches the taper helping it to release.
__________________
1983 300SD
200000miles
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 05-07-2009, 01:31 PM
awsrock's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Tinley Park, IL
Posts: 623
Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
Just screw on the nuts. Torque should be 26 ft/lb if you have a torque wrench. It will pull the tapered portion into place securely. When you start turning the nut, you'll probably need to hold the threaded part secure using an allen wrench on the end so it doesn't spin as you wrench. After a few turns it holds and you can just wrench it tight.
Ah, I did notice that the tops were allen sockets. 'Wondered what that was for.
__________________
Dan
1987 300SDL s200g, Herlevi pump, Elbe manifold, 722.6 collecting dust - 185k
Past: 1987 300D - 264k
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 05-07-2009, 01:43 PM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: central Va
Posts: 7,820
Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
Just screw on the nuts. Torque should be 26 ft/lb if you have a torque wrench. It will pull the tapered portion into place securely. When you start turning the nut, you'll probably need to hold the threaded part secure using an allen wrench on the end so it doesn't spin as you wrench. After a few turns it holds and you can just wrench it tight.
Yes, the FSM suggests using a spacer to "set" the ball joint. I used an open end wrench of the proper depth. Bodhi... did that with an allen, if your new one doesn't have that.
Attached Thumbnails
Serious PITA stuck Tie Rod-ball-joint-setting.jpg   Serious PITA stuck Tie Rod-ball-joint-setting-001.jpg  
__________________
83 SD

84 CD
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 05-07-2009, 01:56 PM
speedy82's Avatar
Raccoons killed a Honda
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ottawa, Illinois
Posts: 130
Smile Serious PITA stuck Tie Rod

Ha! I did that just this past weekend and got frustrated as well. I used a ball joint puller (the pickle fork didn't do the job) and all of a sudden, the joint came loose! Tell you this much, the obsenity I yelled at a moment of frustration echoed in the farmlands surrounding me for miles. They come undone sooner or later.
__________________
1980 300SD (Mr. Sparkles), 1976 450SEL, 1982 300D turbo, 1989 VW Cabriolet morphing into a td cabriolet , 1997 TDI Passat, 1996 piece of Jeep,1993 F150, 1990 F250 7.3L...i think that's it, for now.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 05-07-2009, 02:04 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 8,678
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil View Post
If you try a pickle fork it is important to use the correct size.
Pickle forks cause as many problems as they solve. In particular, they tend to gouge the surface on which the TRE grease boot rides, ensuring a short life for the boot.

Last edited by tangofox007; 05-07-2009 at 04:22 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 05-07-2009, 02:07 PM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: central Va
Posts: 7,820
A pickle fork usually damages the boot, so if you can get a separator, that's the way to go. On the UCA tho, most folks are replacing the whole thing, so it doesn't matter.
__________________
83 SD

84 CD
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 05-07-2009, 02:31 PM
pop & blow's Avatar
forgotmorethenmostknow
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: rhode island
Posts: 208
Tie Rod Stuck?

just my 2 cents worth, take a big hammer and hit it real hard on the side, it will pop out, works for me everytime, done many, don't use heat.my opinion
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 05-07-2009, 05:20 PM
babymog's Avatar
Loose Cannon - No Balls
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Northeast Indiana
Posts: 10,767
No UCA on a 124 (the OP).
__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 05-07-2009, 06:48 PM
BodhiBenz1987's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: East Coast
Posts: 3,005
Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
Yes, the FSM suggests using a spacer to "set" the ball joint. I used an open end wrench of the proper depth. Bodhi... did that with an allen, if your new one doesn't have that.
Wow, wish I'd been clever enough to think of that when I did my UCA joint, which didn't have the allen socket ... I used a c-clamp to hold the steering knuckle and arm together while I turned the nut a few times to set it. Oh well, my method worked.
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--14,500 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 05-07-2009, 07:02 PM
SirNik84's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Sacramento, Ca
Posts: 1,470
I had this problems on a friends 300D. I always use the sledge hammer to the side, but it wouldn't worked. so I got out the pickle fork, that wouldn't work. After 2 hours I got pissed, then I started to thinking... I know thats scary... but then I got thinking about what takes out a stuck bolt, an impact. Why does the impact work, vibrations, hey thats why the hammer works. I need something to vibrate the hell out of this....
Answer:


I used the chisel bit, and pushed the sharp part past the joint, and used it like a vibrating wedge. WHAM 2 seconds latter, DONE.

If i could get a pickle fork bit for the roto-hammer that would be an awesome tool.
__________________
1983 Toyota Tercel 4WD Wagon - 1984 Mercedes-Benz 300SD 4-Speed(My Car!) 2005 C230 Kompressor 6-Speed Manual

Last edited by SirNik84; 05-07-2009 at 07:08 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 05-07-2009, 07:02 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 517
mine was pretty stuck on as well. did 2 nights of soaking and heat with a mapp gas torch. in the end, I took a grinder to the shaft, cut it flush, then used a big ass punch and a hammer to bang out the outer side. then the inside was easy to take off
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:00 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page