I was replacing the entire tie rod assemblies so I didn't care about the boots. The pickle fork was a joke, but along with a wheel puller it worked. I left the nut on the tie rod a few turns so when the joint popped loose it didn't fly off and hit something.

__________________

1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

I got it out!! I ended up getting a nice new $30 puller that is adjustable. It still took a bit of pressure to come out; I had to get the 18" extension out. Then once it was out, I had to press down the threaded bolt because it was so smashed that it would not come out of the spindle

Hooray!! It already feels much tighter. Tomorrow I'll be off to the alignment shop once again, but this time I'll actually leave with a straight tracking car! (Well, let's hope so)

Also, no torch needed. For grins, I brought out a lighter and as soon as I turned it on, the tie rod burst into flame! It was scary..I guess I didn't get enough oil off, or some of the pb blaster went up. Hmm. No biggie though, but glad I didn't need to torch it (literally!)

__________________
Dan
2005 E320 CDI - 246k
1987 300SDL TD05-16g, Herlevi pump, Elbe manifold, 2.47 LSD - 213k
Past: 1987 300D - 264k

torch= fire ext nearby.

glad you got it. I bought the napa balljoint tool like the pic i posted earlier- $35. it worked on all tie rods and ball joints the last time around on a 123.

Is this the tie rod end or the joint that connects the LCA to the knuckle? If the latter you could take the whole axle half to an indy shop.

121 dollars. a little pricey but they are worth their weight in gold

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it