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#1
05-06-2009, 11:12 PM
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Serious PITA stuck Tie Rod
I blew a fuse today trying to get this damned thing out..now my car has to spend the night on jacks and wheel-less.
What have you all done with really tight tie rods? I've gotten one end out,(it's the outer right rod) but the inner boot is stuck beyond belief. I even broke the autozone ball joint / rod puller tool! I've hammered a bit too, but it's a tight spot with limited access. Grr!! Anyway, I need to figure something out, because I can't put it back togetger to go anywhere since the threads are basically smashed and deformed. Is it time for a blowtorch?? I don't think I have ever been so mad while working on my car..this has turned into a multiple hour project with little results! 
__________________
Dan 2005 E320 CDI - 246k 1987 300SDL TD05-16g, Herlevi pump, Elbe manifold, 2.47 LSD - 213k Past: 1987 300D - 264k 
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#3
05-07-2009, 12:36 AM
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I recently fought the lower ball joint and the LCA. I was not going to replace the ball joint and I definitely didn't want to destroy it in the process.
So: Get a puller that can put pressure on the end of the threaded stud. That alone won't get the job done, but it's a start. Then, carefully heat the outside of the joint for about two minutes with propane. Then, sharply rap the side of the joint with a hammer a few times. This one was quite stubborn, but the combination of force from the puller and shock from the hammer, coupled with some heat, got the job done.
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#4
05-07-2009, 12:48 AM
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I had one really tough joint on the 240D that pulverized the pickle fork. I ended up using this type of tool: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=1752
I had to wrench on it pretty hard before it popped out with gusto. Not sure if it would work any better for you than the tool you used, but maybe worth a try. I'm struggling to get the center link ends off now ... my tool won't fit under there, and I can't get any leverage with the pickle fork. No fun.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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#7
05-07-2009, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
 will do the job. I'm ready to give it hell; I'm taking a half day, etc. Rain or shine!! I just hope that I don't break anything else...I don't want to injure the boot on the center tie rod in the process.
__________________
Dan 2005 E320 CDI - 246k 1987 300SDL TD05-16g, Herlevi pump, Elbe manifold, 2.47 LSD - 213k Past: 1987 300D - 264k
Last edited by awsrock; 05-07-2009 at 08:45 AM.
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#8
05-07-2009, 08:43 AM
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Brian, when you say to apply heat to the joint, do you mean directly to the tie rod boot, or to the spindle that it goes into? Or both?
 This will be my first time using a torch...do I need to get one of those science lab-type sparking tools, or can I just carefully use a match / lighter to get it going? Also, once out, will the new tie rods go into place simply by tightening the nut, or will I need to force those in there too? I would think that just tightening would be enough, but after this ordeal, I am starting to question more things..
__________________
Dan 2005 E320 CDI - 246k 1987 300SDL TD05-16g, Herlevi pump, Elbe manifold, 2.47 LSD - 213k Past: 1987 300D - 264k
Last edited by awsrock; 05-07-2009 at 09:26 AM.
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#9
05-07-2009, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
You want to heat the outside of the joint so that it opens slightly and releases the tie rod. Do not heat the tie rod itself. Avoid heating the rubber to the point of smoking. I saved the boot on the ball joint...........the tie rod is smaller and heating it without smoking the rubber is going to be more difficult. You can use a match to light the torch...........the sparking tool is more convenient. I use the torch so often that I bought one that starts itself. The new tie rod fits the taper perfectly and is secured by the nut. Over time, the tapered joint becomes almost impossible to separate without significant force.
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#10
05-07-2009, 10:36 AM
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Don't de-emphasize the usefulness of a hammer either. Hammering the side of the spindle, ackerman or whatever your working on while applying pressure with the separating tool does wonders.
__________________
For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD 1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel
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#11
05-07-2009, 10:40 AM
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I'd soak it in PB Blaster overnight, and wail on it with a pickle fork and mini sledge. Thats how I popped the hard to get ones on the SDL. If that fails torch it.
__________________
1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200
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#12
05-07-2009, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
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#13
05-07-2009, 11:06 AM
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I have never been let down by an OTC #7503.
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#14
05-07-2009, 11:10 AM
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One of these days I'll spend money on some quality tools. Right now I don't really make enough to justify it...top of my list is a GOOD torque wrench, though. (Broke my $30 one- gears basically exploded, lol)
__________________
Dan 2005 E320 CDI - 246k 1987 300SDL TD05-16g, Herlevi pump, Elbe manifold, 2.47 LSD - 213k Past: 1987 300D - 264k
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#15
05-07-2009, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Seriously, I just want to go get my alignment (which is why I am doing the tie rod) so that way I can go to a far away junkyard to get a new bumper. Guh. That, and my gf gets mad at my car for wandering all over the place on the highway 
__________________
Dan 2005 E320 CDI - 246k 1987 300SDL TD05-16g, Herlevi pump, Elbe manifold, 2.47 LSD - 213k Past: 1987 300D - 264k
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