Flexx boots won't go on, now I'm screwed - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tobybul · #16 05-31-2009, 04:18 PM

Bartdood, I covered that problem in this thread. Thats why I warned ppl about the angle of the axle when putting the axle in. It can pinch the Flexxboot. I redid the newly installed Flexxboots using Dormans because they were locally available and I did not want to order the Flexxboots again. THe Dormans are also heavier and a bit tougher to shove thru the cone but possible. I used Pledge to lubricate the cone per Astoria's recommendation. See thread below:

Flexx Boot Axle Repair Using Cone

ashedd · #17 05-31-2009, 06:01 PM

I need to replace the cracked boots on my SD. There is no way I am removing the shafts to replace the boots. My friend, formally of autozone, states that autozone sold split universal boots that could be installed w/o removing the shaft. Anyone ever use these? Even if the only lasted 5 years it's better than removing the shafts. I would guess my current boots will split open by winter.

pawoSD · #18 05-31-2009, 06:59 PM

Pledge works great, we were unsuccessful with oil, but pledge made it easy.

This week I am going to likely do them on my 300SD......

79Mercy · #19 05-31-2009, 07:34 PM

did ya'll replace the seals on the diff where the shaft goes inside?

tobybul · #20 05-31-2009, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 79Mercy

did ya'll replace the seals on the diff where the shaft goes inside?

I did not. They did not look beat up.

Also, I would not use the split boots. I think they stopped selling those. For the critial function of the axles, I would not risk the possibility of leaking in the seams.

The axles are not that difficult to remove. Plus, if you tear out the boots in place, getting the old oil out can be challenging.

pixelsblack009 · #21 06-01-2009, 10:44 AM

dont go to all this trouble I replaced the cv boots on my dads W115, why is everyone complaining just remove the cv joint end then there is no need to strech or boil em and you can use the original benz boots which are abit harder If your intrested post back all you need is a pice of plywood and a hammer and someone to hold it in the air post back and I'll post up the instructions

jeremy

tobybul · #22 06-01-2009, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pixelsblack009

dont go to all this trouble I replaced the cv boots on my dads W115, why is everyone complaining just remove the cv joint end then there is no need to strech or boil em and you can use the original benz boots which are abit harder If your intrested post back all you need is a pice of plywood and a hammer and someone to hold it in the air post back and I'll post up the instructions

jeremy

jeremy, why not just post the intructions right here so we can all avail of it....

bart_dood · #23 06-01-2009, 01:27 PM

The problem with the flexx boots is the type I used; I used the car version for all of them when I should have used the SUV/truck version....

See the attached pic with the arrow, this is the car version, its this that is the problem, getting tucked inside the CV joint metal can. On the truck version this extra flat area for smaller CV's is not there and so the problem doesn't occur.
I have 4 SUV/truck flexx boots on the way.

pawoSD · #24 06-01-2009, 04:44 PM

We used the standard ones on my dad's car and had no issues....all 4 have been in about 1.5 weeks with no leaks. The SUV ones will probably be too big and just have to be cut down to size anyways. Flex 3000 is the proper part.

tobybul · #25 06-01-2009, 07:06 PM

Astoria themselves recommend the 3000 (car version).

pixelsblack009 · #26 06-03-2009, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tobybul

jeremy, why not just post the intructions right here so we can all avail of it....

Ok sorry for the delay I sent some instructions to the guy with the picture of the yellow 2 door I have school tomorrow so it will most proberbly be friday(holiday

) or saturday may be friday when I post it up

jeremy

pixelsblack009 · #27 06-03-2009, 12:02 PM

could someone post up some pictures of the inside of the cv joint where the ball bearins are and the spider with the boot cut off there is a place that you need to hammer a little to get it off