EGR Removal
 

I reinstall my starter, refilled trans, replaced tran filter, and back on the road. Been reading about removing the EGR valve, but I donot have a complete idea of how to do so.
I broke off air charging hose from the rear of the IM to the valve unit adjacent to the brake booster.
I see that TooManyBenz removed this line in accordance with the EGR disabling.

I pulled the egr valve gasket for a template to fabricate and install a blank plate. Do I just plug the lines back to the unit on top of my valve cover. This is the 1983 300D turbo.

What else is there? I do not want to just start pulling and plugging.

Thanks,

When I broke the switchover valve line on the back of the manifold, it was just above the banjo bolt. Took the line and the bolt off the car and used a tiny bit of superglue to hold it together enough to put a sheath of JBWeld over the area. Still holding strong.

My EGR valve is gone (used a kit from Monster Craftsman) but I still have that line to the switchover valve. Only lines I removed and/or plugged were the ones connecting to the box on top of the valve cover. Removed the box too.

The crossover hose on my 300D broke during removal, I just used 1/4" fuel hose to splice it back to the connector.

I did replace the cross over tube with hose.
What is the purpose of the "switchover valve" ?

If I remove the EGR from the IM, plugging with a plate, Do I just plug the vac line to the module on top of the Valve cover ?
I look at the bottom of the metal corregated tube to plug that connection as well.

Having been associated with production equipment and facilities support refrigeration, pumps, fans, transformers etc. Preventive/Predictive Maint is key. I find myself gravitating back to these cars to extend their life, looking forward to the pleasure in driving these great vehicles.

Gary

That switchover valve is to prevent the turbo from overboosting the engine. A Mercedes mechanic mentioned to not worry about it as these engines are over built and the turbo doesn't produce too much boost anyway.
I have been told that bypassing it would be the death knell, it bought one of mine that way six years ago, it's still running.
I have removed the black box on the SD, left it in place on the CD, both are blocked/plugged off. The black box nipples are open, no need to block 'em off, AFAIK. I do have a kit from BC, haven't installed it yet. It comes with a block off plate for the valve itself, and a copper disc to be fitted over the flex tube end. I don't see why you can't just JB weld something over that hole, unless you think you may reinstall it.

I'd avoid that mechanic in the future. 2.5x the normal boost limit is a bit more than "too much".

^^Not to worry, too far away.

Can anyone tell me what tool to use to get the bolts off the egr to remove it and how did you plug the pipe down to the exaust? I have no boost and i'm trying this step next thanks guys

EGR removal - Hex head drive or hex head T handle I do not remember the size.

You don't have to go to all this trouble. Simply plug the vacuum line with a steel ball and put it back on. The only advantage to removing the valve is to see how much gunk has built up in the intake manifold.

If you're not getting enough boost, either the waste gate is open (not likely) or the signal line to the injection pump is blocked. Start by cleaning the sensor bolt at the back of the intake manifold.

alda is already gone, egr pipe off the bottom was broken in half. i figured the egr valve was open and i was leaking air out there so the turbo won't spool up. i want to take the egr off and plug it with a plate then put it back on but i don't know what size hex bolt it is to go buy one. i also need to block off the exaust pipe from the egr, it is also broken. any ideas? i also installed a manual boost control valve in wastegate hose. no boost still. i have a leak somewhere. can anyone send me a pic of the turbo where it hooks into the manifold? i have a gap there but i don't know if i should have one or not.

don B , Post a photo with the air cleaner off, it would help someone here give you some direction.

ok i will thursday thanks

Don, As for the tool. Just buy a set of "Allen sockets" at Sears, Home Depot, or the auto parts store. note: cheap stuff breaks. You should also have a set of "L" shaped allen keys if you intend to do any amount of auto maintenance on your own.

Don b, Renntag is right. I have found that over the years every car I have owned has forced me to add to my tool box ( not complaining ) and makes me wish I had not sold my large full tool box when I got out of Aircraft maint.
The hex sockets are a great way to go I added a set of long T handled hex wrenchs when I was replacing a head on a Porsche 944 Turbo.
Don b don't forget the photo.