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  #16  
Old 05-11-2009, 03:03 PM
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I'm replacing oil cooler lines this upcoming weekend, and hopefully they come out with no issues. They did not come out nice from the parts car.

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  #17  
Old 05-16-2009, 11:16 PM
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Small oil leaks...

Today dad and I worked on the cooler lines again. Had the cooler out already with the broken threads, so we cut off the nipple, drilled out a bigger hole with 21/32 drill, tapped the hole with 18mm x 1.5mm thread, cleaned it all out of junk real good and screwed in the fitting with a copper washer.

We were feeling really good about this fix, but in the process I believe we have made one key mistake: we didn't cut the nipple flush with the nut on the cooler housing. Instead, we wanted to have a bit more metal to screw the new fitting into so we left extra 3 mm or so above the nut. In retrospect we should not have done that. That cut must not have been exactly straight (we used a hacksaw) and even after some careful filing to get it even it must not have been perfectly flat because it leaked between the copper washer somewhere. It's a small leak but it's a leak nevertheless, so I'll need to deal with it. Luckily I have no leaks a the oil filter housing... whew!

So what's my best bet at this point - note that I have everything assembled now... wondering if I should either:

a) take the cooler out again and cut the nipples flush with the nut and then use a new copper washer, or

b) just remove the lines and replace the copper washers with new crush washers - hoping that the new copper washer would compensate for the uneven surface that remains...

Not sure, but it seems that option (a) is what I probably will do - probably should not take shortcuts here. Hopefully I won't have to drain all of the oil again.

Any advice would be welcome.

James

Here is a pic of the almost successful fix -
Attached Thumbnails
Oil cooler repair - help needed...-upper_cooler_line1.jpg  
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  #18  
Old 05-17-2009, 01:48 AM
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Unscrew the repair nipple and degrease the internal threads and the threads on the of the repair Nipple that thread into the Oil Cooler. Coat the Repair Nipple threads that go into the Oil Cooler with JB Weld (or another slow setting Epoxy that can take the heat) and install the Repair Nipple. Follow the directions as to how long to let it cure to harden it.
If for some reason the temperature is lower then it shoud be to cure; someone will have to stand there with an Electric Hair Dryer and keep it warm while it cures (do not use a heat gun as it might get too hot and un-solder something).

If you degrease the threads well there is no reason why the JB Weld will not seal and hold the pressure.

I lost some threads on my upper Oil Cooler Nipple and used JB Weld on the origional threads (partly seen middle top) to make sure mine seals. It has been taking the heat and the pressure for at least 1 1/2 years now.

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Oil cooler repair - help needed...-6.jpg  
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Last edited by whunter; 05-10-2010 at 05:55 PM. Reason: attached picture
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  #19  
Old 05-17-2009, 02:08 AM
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Even if you had cut the old threads off straight it is hard to hold a Drill Motor by hand and drill a straight hole (and with a big drill Aluminum can be kind of grabby and jerky), and because Aluminum is soft it is also easier to tap a hole slightly crooked.
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  #20  
Old 05-17-2009, 02:35 AM
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Here is the thread I was thinking about with the pictures. first post.

www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=232734

Charlie
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  #21  
Old 05-17-2009, 09:24 AM
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JB Weld it is....

Thanks for the hints and for the link - yeah, I can see how JB Weld can ensure a good seal - will take that route. With JB Weld as a sealer I probably won't even bother with the crush copper washer.

Will let ya know how it goes. THx
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  #22  
Old 05-22-2009, 09:36 AM
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Question about temp of the oil cooler..

I got the leaks taken care of using JB Weld - I disassembled it all, degreased it well - I sealed the threads with JBWeld and re-assembled. Worked fine - no leaks. Got the car on the road for a short test drive - no problems - cool.

TOday I drove to work - about 22 miles, so I got the engine good and hot. I popped the hood in the parking lot just to be sure. No leaks, which is good, but the oil cooler was only luke warm?! Was expecting it to be really warm after a hard 20+ mile drive at speed limit. Does that seem normal?!
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  #23  
Old 05-22-2009, 02:38 PM
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Anybody?!

Anybody know if the oil cooler normally gets pretty warm or if it stays cool like that even after a drive... I'm a little concerned about it....
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  #24  
Old 05-22-2009, 04:02 PM
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Carefully feel the differance in temp between the upper and lower Hose. The lower one being the hot Oil in and the upper being cooler Oil going out.
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  #25  
Old 05-23-2009, 03:45 AM
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There is a thermostat in the oil filter housing regulating the oil flow to the cooler depending on oil temp. middle of winter in Minnisota, or middle of summer in death valley makes a difference.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #26  
Old 05-23-2009, 03:50 AM
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My oil cooler is usually almost too hot to touch after a 20+ minute highway drive....no matter where I touch it!

I'd say the T-stat might not be opening all the way, or maybe the engine is running too cool to begin with? Whats the coolant temp getting up to?

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