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Oil cooler repair - help needed...
Yesterday, my dad and I tackled the oil cooler line replacement project. It started out well, we were able to get the fitting off the oil housing with no problems (thanks Dieselgiant for the tip on the special tool).
Then, the upper one on the oil cooler itself came off with no problems whatsoever... but the lower line on the cooler was stuck rock hard - using plenty of PB Blaster, and gently trying to persuade it only resulted in stripped threads - see the photo. So now I have another project - fixing the threaded nipple. Reading through some of the posts on this forum, I was able to find an excellent thread on the topic: are the oil cooler fittings replaceable by themselves? I ordered the parts from my local dealer (I guess nobody in CO carries it) - the part referenced in the thread was # 915013-013002. Should arrive on Tuesday, meanwhile, questions on the actual repair for those of you who fought through this already: what are some of the steps for installing the patch fitting. Reading below it seems we need to cut off the nipple with the stripped threads back to the nut that's permanently attached to the cooler - that's clear, but drilling a pilot hole is confusing me... Why would we need to drill a pilot hole - isn't there already a big hole in the place where we just cut the nipple?! Wouldn't we just tap the big gaping hole in the oil cooler? Obviously I'm missing something.... and any help here would be appreciated - Here is the direct quote from someone on the above thread: "... All I had to do is cut the aluminum threads off the oil cooler, drill a pilot hole, tap new threads, and install the new fittings. The thread tap size is 18mm by 1.5mm. The drill size for the pilot hole is 21/32 inches, I don't know the metric equivalent. It took a local machinist 15 minutes to cut off the aluminum threads back to the nut part, drill the pilot holes (there's plenty of metal there), and tap the new threads. It took longer to rinse out all the aluminum filings and grit out of the cooler than it did to work on it. Here are the MB part numbers for the threaded oil line fittings and copper washers. MB Part # Description 915013-013002 Screwed Nipples (That's what the label said.) 007603-018101 Ring, General, Metal"
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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K |
#2
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I assume the 'big gaping hole' is not quite big enough and needs to be enlarged to accept the tap.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#3
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Still not quite clear...
Understand, but why would there be a mention of needing a pilot hole... that's the confusion I guess. Will probably get a better feel for the job when the part arrives...
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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K |
#4
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Quote:
You might try this if you think the threads that are left can be restored. See Post #13: striped threads on oil cooler
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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Looks like only one option left...
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Since I'll be pursuing cutting off the nipple at the nut and tapping the hole I'll need to clean the shavings and such out of the oil cooler after the fact. What's a good substance to use for - is common Brake Cleaner ok for that job?!
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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K |
#6
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The good news is that the Oil that Goes through the Oil Cooler is un-filtered Oil. The Oil returning from the Oil Cooler goes back to the filter housing to pass through the Oil Filter before going into the Engine. If you mean what to soak the whole Oil Cooler in; I believe I have read members have used Diesel Fuel or Biodiesel. Brake Cleaner would work but I am not sure if you mean to Spray it from Spray Can or use it as a flush from a 1 gallon can? If you are going to get a Gallon of Brake Cleaner you could just as well buy 1 Gallon of Slovent instead. I believe all of the above will work.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 05-11-2009 at 12:13 AM. |
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Flushing out...
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Finally, thanks for clarifying that the oil in the cooler is pre-filtered - that's great news. Was wondering about that myself. Thanks for your help - appreciate it.
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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K |
#8
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after you tap out the hole, flush the oil cooler from the top, and as the brake clean or what ever liquid you use, will flush the chips out. then nothing gets into the oil system.
There was a thread where the guy had pictures of doing the repair, wish I could remember who that was. It was over a year back. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#9
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Quote:
This means that the Oil Filter will protect your Engine from any chips that might get missed after flushing out the Oil Cooler.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#10
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Correcting...
Yes, understand - I just didn't pick the right words, but I'm glad the filter is in line to protect the engine.
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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K |
#11
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"pilot hole" should have been "tap drill hole". You may want to verify the 18 x 1.5 size, I was not able to find it in the chart below..
http://www.newmantools.com/tapdrill.htm
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#12
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Tools...
Found this: http://www.restockit.com/High-Carbon-Steel-Metric-Thread-Spark-Plug-Tap-Plug-18-mm-1-50-(VER21164).html
Says it's 18mm x 1.5 mm and the drill size is 21/32nd - hoping that's the one.... I'll need to try it out on something first.
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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K |
#13
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I'd just find a replacement at the JY.
-From the guy with too many spare parts JIC.
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#14
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FYI
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Engine oil cooler line issue link thread Engine oil cooler and hose/line issue, link thread Have a great day.. |
#15
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When I looked at several Tap Drill charts I found that all of them did not agree with each other. But, the drill I bought is the one that at least 2 members have actually used. So the one actually used by the members must have worked.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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