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-   -   Any tips on removing fan/clutch from OM 606, 95 E300D? (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/252377-any-tips-removing-fan-clutch-om-606-95-e300d.html)

drgreenthumb 05-11-2009 08:36 PM

Any tips on removing fan/clutch from OM 606, 95 E300D?
 
I am looking at changing the accessory belt from my car and was ready to remove the fan/clutch assembly. There is very little room between the front of the fan and radiator. How do you get anything in there to wrench the bolt out?

TMAllison 05-11-2009 09:40 PM

I dont think you need to do any of that. Just drop tension, unhook the belt, turn it sideways (1/8") and fish it out between fan and rad.

The new one should go in the same way.

On the W210 once back in place you have to pull the belt up through a tight openning between the WP and harmonic balancer pulleys; i tie some twine to it and fish the string up through that openning, then pull it through. Takes maybe 5 mins start to finish.

compu_85 05-11-2009 11:36 PM

You can use the fan to guide the belt around, no need to take it totally off.

-J

connerm 05-12-2009 09:17 AM

Snaking the belt with the fan in place is a square pain in the neck. Buy the shorty hex socket and pully holder and remove it in about 30 seconds. Torque the hex bolt to 45nm (33ft/lbs).

drgreenthumb 05-12-2009 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by connerm (Post 2198361)
Snaking the belt with the fan in place is a square pain in the neck. Buy the shorty hex socket and pully holder and remove it in about 30 seconds. Torque the hex bolt to 45nm (33ft/lbs).

Both manuals (Bentley and Haynes) say a special tool is required to keep the H2O pump from spinning and the bolt is torqued to 100nm. They both recommend the real tool from MB since the amount of torque is so high and it is more likely that a home-made tool will fail. Is this accurate?

uberwgn 05-12-2009 01:26 PM

Doc: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/158069-r-r-viscous-coupled-fan-serpentine-belt-replacement-w210-e300d.html

pimpernell 05-12-2009 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drgreenthumb (Post 2198557)
Both manuals (Bentley and Haynes) say a special tool is required to keep the H2O pump from spinning and the bolt is torqued to 100nm. They both recommend the real tool from MB since the amount of torque is so high and it is more likely that a home-made tool will fail. Is this accurate?

Why go out of your way to look for trouble?? The other posters say that you can replace the belt without removing anything, and I will say that I have done it in about 5 minutes without taking a single thing off the engine. Its your decision, and your money. Good luck

drgreenthumb 05-12-2009 04:07 PM

Just asking for clarification from someone who has done the job.....I want to here what the people with this experience have to say. When I searched the archives I found the same type of response. Some people swear by taking the fan/clutch assembly off and some don't. I did not find the answer to my question in the archives which was how to get the wrench between the radiator and the fan.

drgreenthumb 05-12-2009 04:08 PM

Thank you for the response. I will be doing it this way since no special tools are required. Tension is dropped by removing the top bolt of the spring, correct?

drgreenthumb 05-12-2009 04:09 PM

Thanks for the link, glad I didn't get the bolt out and try reefing it to 100nm!

TMAllison 05-12-2009 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drgreenthumb (Post 2198728)
Tension is dropped by removing the top bolt of the spring, correct?

Correct.

WIS also tells you to pull rad fittings, fan shroud, exhaust, intake, intercooler and air box fittings before lifting the engine 1/4" to change out a motor mount too.....Most of us don't find that necessary.:rolleyes:


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