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#1
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W126 Brakes - a couple of questions
OK, I got the car jacked up (my other thread is below somewhere).
I have the wheel off, and I have removed the 19MM bolts holding the caliper on. The problem is, I can't back the caliper off. It looks like it would help if I removed the pins holding the pads on. Is that right? If not, how do I get the caliper off? A couple of other questions as well: Also, the rotor looks to be pretty near to spec - I would bet 1 and 1/16 inch. Is that too thin to use? Finally, I see the brake pads are pretty low - maybe 2/16 inch of material left on them (I won't know for sure until I get the caliper off). How do I make sure my brake sensors are working? I know I have a little warning light for low brake pads, but it has not gone off yet. I did look in the DIY, but I don't see anything about the 300 SDL. Thanks for any and all help.
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86 300 SDL - Vesuvius 96 SL 500 Assumption is the mother of all screw ups. Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light. - Dylan Thomas All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing - Edmund Burke |
#2
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I just found a post that says i should pop the retaining pin out.
First question answered, now just how do I do that? Should I use a nail like in the post?
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86 300 SDL - Vesuvius 96 SL 500 Assumption is the mother of all screw ups. Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light. - Dylan Thomas All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing - Edmund Burke |
#3
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A punch is a better idea. Nails are quite soft in comparison.
I prefer an air hammer for brake pins needing a punch. It's quite easy to tap the pin out with one of those. Not much power is usually needed. |
#4
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You can use what ever works to punch out the pins; if they come out easy. However, an actual Punch that is slightly smaller in diameter than the pin would be better.
I do not know how to check the wear sensors.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#5
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there is a DIY for the W123 front brakes and a DIY for the W126 rear brakes. some good pictures to guide you along. the SDL should be similar.
there are the two long pins that have to be driven back to be pulled out. use a thin punch (or nail with end ground flat) to drive them back. under them is the springy clip that holds the pads in. when I replaced my pads, I used a thin screw driver between the pad and rotor and gently pryed back to retract the caliper piston. this gives you the space to install the new thicker pad. There could be a lip on the rotor from wear catching the pad. pushing them back will clear that. The wire sensors have to be replace each time. I have tried to save them, but they usually break trying to pull them out of the pad. I don`t use them, Iam usually in there enough times rotating tires I do a visual. I don`t recommend you to do that, but that is what I do. I burned my wires, I go natural Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#6
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Thanks all, that did it.
There is a lip on the rotor which means I need to replace it according to what I read, and the pads were right at the sensor. Now I am off to do battle with the rotor - it is stuck good and tight like I was afraid of. I will try some of the stuff in the DIY guide for the rear rotor. Block of wood, mini sledge, etc. etc.
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86 300 SDL - Vesuvius 96 SL 500 Assumption is the mother of all screw ups. Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light. - Dylan Thomas All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing - Edmund Burke |
#7
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As long as shiny part of the rotor is in spec, you can use it.
My FSM keeps crashing my computer, so I can't look it up.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#8
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I think it is 1 inch (but i could be wrong).
All right, I give up. How do you get the front rotor off? Is there a trick? I thought it would have nothing retaining it other than the wheel and the caliper, right?
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86 300 SDL - Vesuvius 96 SL 500 Assumption is the mother of all screw ups. Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light. - Dylan Thomas All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing - Edmund Burke |
#9
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It looks like I should start by putting WD 40 in the wheel stud holes liberally and than wacking the snot out of the center of the hub (towards the wheel). Right?
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86 300 SDL - Vesuvius 96 SL 500 Assumption is the mother of all screw ups. Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light. - Dylan Thomas All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing - Edmund Burke |
#10
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It was my understanding that the hub must come off to replace the W126 front rotors, but I've never done that job.
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#11
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Interesting - I will stop right here as I will likely brake something.
Could someone else help me out here? Does the hub come off to do the front rotors on the SDL?
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86 300 SDL - Vesuvius 96 SL 500 Assumption is the mother of all screw ups. Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light. - Dylan Thomas All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing - Edmund Burke |
#12
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Matt L appears to be right - So, I follow the W123 procedure right?
I am sorry if I am a pest, I just don't have a clue exactly what I need to do. I am sure I will break something if I am not careful. For the record, I am on step 5 of the W123 process - I have removed the 5 MM hex nut, but the rotor still will not move. What I am missing?
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86 300 SDL - Vesuvius 96 SL 500 Assumption is the mother of all screw ups. Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light. - Dylan Thomas All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing - Edmund Burke |
#13
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have you removed the bearing yet?
EDIT: after you loosen the 5mm bolt, then unscrew the nut and then the rotor and hub will come off.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#14
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Could you state which end of the car you are working on?
Last edited by tangofox007; 05-16-2009 at 01:57 PM. |
#15
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He did mention the brake sensors, soooo assumed the front.
Too much Assumin goin on here, we need the facts Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
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