I just bought all new a/c parts for my car, New compressor, receiver/dryer, expansion valve and all new seals, My question is how much oil do I add to the compressor and other components? I was told to use PAG oil.

Ummm, it depends which car you have. A wagon? W123? A GTI?

If you're using R134a, then PAG is OK. If R-12, use mineral oil. I'm assuming you're doing a full flush. My W123 used 170ml of mineral oil, basically 1/3 in the condenser, 1/3 in the drier, and 1/3 in the narrow line to the evap, and enough in the compressor to be sure the moving parts were wet (but most came dribbling out when the compressor was mounted).

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Bob
'82 300D Petrol B-G Metallic

Opps, Don't know why I forgot what car lol it's a 1984 300D sedan

That's more like it.

2.6 lbs R-12 (adjust accordingly for R-134a)
170ml mineral oil - not sure if adjustment is needed for PAG.

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Bob
'82 300D Petrol B-G Metallic

I am going to be using 134a, Do I just divide that amount of oil between the compressor and the other components? Sorry for all the questions, I just don't want to mess anything up.

Then don't use R-134a!!!

There is no problem using R134a.

1) Fill the compressor with 8oz of Ether oil. Pag oil is OK but it is better with Ether as the system was using R12 before and has mineral oil. Ether Oil mixes better with the old oil unless you can purge the mineral oil completely.

2) Put 2 oz of oil in the rec/drier. It is not necessary but some people recommend it.
3) Pull vacuum down to 20-25 hg or better and make sure it holds for a few hours, or overnight.
4) Charge with R134a.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

Cool, Thank you very much. A friend of mine is going to vaccum the system and charge it for me.

I think you mean Ester oil, short for Polyolester, often abbreviated POE.

PAG is a much better lubricant, but it will not tolerate chlorine. Water either, but you can now buy double-end-capped PAG, known as DEC-PAG, which is much more water-tolerant. The stuff at our local parts store says "Super Moisture Tolerant Formula" or some such, and it is DEC oil. For PAG, you use 46cSt viscosity.

As for the chlorine, it appears that you will be using your old flexible hoses. You won't get all of the refrigerant out of them, so there will be chlorine. If this is the case, I would go with POE oil, in 100cSt viscosity (I would use 100. What you use is up to you). Note that POE oil is also not water tolerant.

I would recommend fluorescent dye in the oil. You can buy it that way off the shelf.

I should add that I agree with TangoFox. Spend the $15 and an hour or two and get your 609 certificate online after taking an open-book test. Then you can buy R12 legally. It is more expensive than 134a, but it's really not that bad.

There is presently a worldwide shortage of Ether Oil!!! You won't find it anywhere. All the better reason to stick with mineral oil and R-12. And since water boils at 130*F at 25" Hg, I would recommend pulling a bit more vacuum than 20-25."

And one more reason to use R-12: you will actually be able to tell when your a/c is on!!!

The person that had the car before had it converted to 134a, I used the pag oil and plan to have the vaccum done tomorrow night. Ive had 134a in all my cars and its cold enough for me Ill just be happy that it will be blowing cold air I flushed the hell out of the lines and condensor but I forgot to put the new expansion valve on lol.... where is it?

Once again ah-kay is willing to overlook certain facts which have been learned the hard way in an effort to promote R134a.

I have no problem with R134a per se....

but to use it in a Delco Hotchkiss compressor and have a chance for years of problem free service you must be sure you have one of those type compressors which was BUILT FOR R134a use.

This means being sure you have certain serial or model numbers on your compressor.

Ask Tray Carlisle at Carlisle Auto Air in San Antonio, Tx for the specifics... although I may have posted it in the archives...

There is a huge amount of evidence in the archives not only from this forum but Aircondition.com and ackits.com concerning the long term lack of reliability using the Delco made for R12 and just substituting R134a.

Millions of the Delco hockey pucks are working just fine with R134a...but if you got an exact replacement for your Delco when you purchased the new compressor then you are likely to have problems about a year out if you substitute R134a for the R12 it was originally made to work with.

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

The compressor does have 134a stamped on it in a few places, Does that make a difference?

I am not promoting R134a, I am just stating the facts. Find me a new car using R12.

Statistically any component has a chance of failure. The engine may quit, the tranny may not shift tomorrow. If you buy a compressor, new or used, it stands the same chance of failure using R134a or R12. The issue is not the cooling agent, it is the oil in the compressor. If you put the proper oil, ( BTW, I recommend using Ester oil, not Ether ) then the compressor should be as reliable as any other components.

The compressor failure you are referring to likely caused by installers did not purge all the old mineral oil from the compressor with the compressor in situ in the car. In this case, the compressor is out of the car and as long as it is filled with the proper oil, I really do not see any issues.

My 300D is running fine for 2 years with R134a since I bought it. I do not know how long the PO had it converted. We can talk about it until the cows come home but as far as I am concerned, I will continue to use R134a.

__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.