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  #1  
Old 05-19-2009, 07:57 PM
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Location: Toronto, Canada
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Ignition tumbler help PLEASE!

Hi all,

It figures! I was thinking I was doing a good thing and sprayed some WD-40 alternative into a fine working tumbler and it's now giving me grief. I have to pull my key out slightly to get it to turn, and my new duplicates don't operate the cylinder. What route do I take now? replace? Soak with more lube??

I have looked how how replacing it is done on diesel giant but that's when you can't turn the tumbler. I am sure there is someone here with help!

Thanks again!

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  #2  
Old 05-19-2009, 07:59 PM
79Mercy's Avatar
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replace the tumbler or just leave it alone and it will sure itself. I did the same thing to my door lock, it took a month or so and then it worked fine.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg
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  #3  
Old 05-19-2009, 08:29 PM
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Take the tumbler out, soak in Simple Green and rinse with hot water. Work key in and out. Repeat till no more gunk in rinse water. Blow dry with a hair dryer. Do not lube with anything! Key should now work nice and smooth in tumbler! .
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #4  
Old 05-19-2009, 10:13 PM
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Thanks, but how do I take just the tumbler out? I haven't been able to find a step-by-step process.
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  #5  
Old 05-19-2009, 10:25 PM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2kAIA2-sZ8
__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg
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  #6  
Old 05-19-2009, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 78240D View Post
Thanks, but how do I take just the tumbler out? I haven't been able to find a step-by-step process.
Diesel Giant has a tutorial using a paper clip to get the tumbler out.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #7  
Old 05-19-2009, 10:38 PM
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Thanks for the link, but mine looks NOTHING like that! I believe it is the original and there is a black trim ring with a chrome border surrounding my tumbler, and there is no hole to accept a wire
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  #8  
Old 05-19-2009, 10:50 PM
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thats right your 240D has the early style tumbler. I have no idea how to remove that?
__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg
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  #9  
Old 05-19-2009, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 78240D View Post
Thanks for the link, but mine looks NOTHING like that! I believe it is the original and there is a black trim ring with a chrome border surrounding my tumbler, and there is no hole to accept a wire
Pry away the chrome cover and you will see the hole for the paper clip.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #10  
Old 05-20-2009, 12:37 AM
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My ignition is different
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Sonny


86 190D N/A 2.5L Auto 265k "Ruby" -Sold-
79 300D 242k "Condi" my first -sold- RIP
2013 chevy sonic hatchback - had to for work
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  #11  
Old 05-20-2009, 02:15 PM
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I pryed off the chrome ring but where do I got from here? There is NO pin-hole. Anyone?
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  #12  
Old 05-20-2009, 03:47 PM
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EARLY ignition tumbler replacement.
__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg
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  #13  
Old 05-20-2009, 10:05 PM
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I did this last year. My early 79 should have the same style as your 78. Let me bust my noggin and consult my Haynes manual, and I'll post up a how-too. As I recall you have to remove your lower dash panels and instrument cluster, & unplug all vacuum lines and the electrical connector plug.

I'll be back.

EDIT: You don't have to do all that just to remove the tumbler.
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1979 240D, 4spd manual, Power Sunroof, manual windows, 147k miles, Pastel gray/Black MB Tex.
1991 300D 2.5 - Smokes like it's on Crack!

Last edited by Brandon_SLC; 05-21-2009 at 12:29 PM. Reason: Clarification
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  #14  
Old 05-20-2009, 11:54 PM
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Okay, I'm back...

Try this first: With cluster and lower dash panels removed (for visibility and access), locate "Paperclip hole". It's hard to see. In fact, I don't think you can see it at all, when the steering column is installed in the car.

To locate the hole: When key is in accessory position, the right top edge of the key will be lined up with the hole. The hole is located on the side of the shaft, that the tumbler fits inside of. The top edge of your key, (when it's in accessory position) should point the way. You will be accessing it through the hole where your instrument cluster was, or from underneath the dash.

When the key is in the accessory (first click) position, pressing a piece of stiff wire through the hole will depress a release mechanism. While that mechanism is depressed, your tumbler should pull out when you tug with your key. Be carefull not to tug too hard. Remember your key must be in the accessory position.

In my case a paperclip was too weak. (Thirty years is a long time to sit in one position, I'd be stubborn too.) The first time I removed my tumbler, I pushed the sharp tip of a drywall screw through the hole - because of the long pointy end, and strength. (I also did mine with the entire steering column removed.)

If your tumbler will not come out easily, turn your key slightly back and forth (partially towards "on" and "off") while depressing the release mechanism - with the implement of your choice. You will be able to feel when the key is in the correct position - because the release mechanism will depress the furthest. Once fully depressed, tugging straight out on the key while jiggling a little should pull the tumbler straight out. My tumbler was stiff and stubborn, hopefully your WD-40 made yours' more agreeable.

If you can't get it out this way, you may have to remove the entire steering column. I have directions for that too.
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1979 240D, 4spd manual, Power Sunroof, manual windows, 147k miles, Pastel gray/Black MB Tex.
1991 300D 2.5 - Smokes like it's on Crack!
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  #15  
Old 05-21-2009, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 78240D View Post
I pryed off the chrome ring but where do I got from here? There is NO pin-hole. Anyone?
After seeing that video, I can see why you would be so confused. On our cars, it's located on the side and not visible from the front. The newer style looks easier. I see some mentions of ""coat Hangers". Those will never fit in the teeny tiny hole. A small brad might work. When I was learning this the hard way, last year I tried several different implements before finding something that worked well.

The WD40 must cause too much surface tension between the leaves.

These are good locks, but don't work well if dirt or metal shavings get inside. Chrome plated brass keys should only be used in emergencies. Try to keep your keys clean.

I was under the impression graphite was the only approved lubricant for these old Mercedes locks? (As opposed to NONE.) Seems I can remember my dealer service department telling me this back in the early 80's.

My early 90s Lexus has probably the best ignition lock of any car I've had. It also uses a steel key. With almost 300k miles on it, it still works perfectly. In contrast out of the 3 Chryslers of simmilar vintage in my extended family, all ignition switches have failed at 100 -130k miles.

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1979 240D, 4spd manual, Power Sunroof, manual windows, 147k miles, Pastel gray/Black MB Tex.
1991 300D 2.5 - Smokes like it's on Crack!
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