300SD sag question - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

otto huber · #16 08-09-2009, 11:44 PM

mplafleur,

How did you install the spring pads? Thanks

yuke · #17 08-10-2009, 02:41 AM

I put H.D. Bilsteins on and H.D. springs it brought the back up appox. 2".I still wish it would be a little higher as sometimes I have a lot of weight on the rear.What is the differance between shims and pads?Do the shims go on the bottom and the pads on top? As my next step would have been to put some shims in the bottom.

mplafleur · #18 08-10-2009, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by otto huber

mplafleur,

How did you install the spring pads? Thanks

I knew this would happen. I didn't mention how because I didn't remember. It was rather intuitive I remember. I don't think you actually have to remove the spring to change out the pads on top, but I also remover the springs once without compressing. I'm pretty sure I unbolted the subframe mount. It's got that long pointed bolt going up through the middle. Then I used a prybar and the spring falls right out.

Brian Carlton · #19 08-10-2009, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mplafleur

I'm pretty sure I unbolted the subframe mount.

I'm sure you removed the diff mount and possibly one subframe mount. At that point, nothing holds the spring to the body and it will fall right out.

The danger is in the proper support of the subframe during this process.............

charmalu · #20 08-10-2009, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashedd

where does one find thick spring pads? I looked at fastlane and such but didn't see anything.

take a look in All Parts Express, they are listed for the 83SD, all 3 of them.

Charlie

ashedd · #21 08-21-2009, 06:35 PM

Driving me nuts I tell ya....

I found a nice pair of springs from the pic-a-part. I pulled the nuts off the top of the shock and boom the shock let loose. That is what I wanted to do but I thought I could get the spring out after that.. wrong. Do I need to compress these springs to get them out? I do see I little hook/latch thing that is mechanically keeping the subframe from dropping all the way. I think can get the hook to yield to my demands with a sledge hammer. I think the spring only needs to unload another inch or two.

It sits higher than it did because I put those rubber rings in the springs.

Brian Carlton · #22 08-21-2009, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashedd

Driving me nuts I tell ya....

I found a nice pair of springs from the pic-a-part. I pulled the nuts off the top of the shock and boom the shock let loose. That is what I wanted to do but I thought I could get the spring out after that.. wrong. Do I need to compress these springs to get them out? I do see I little hook/latch thing that is mechanically keeping the subframe from dropping all the way. I think can get the hook to yield to my demands with a sledge hammer. I think the spring only needs to unload another inch or two.

You've got the trailing arm hitting the subframe stop. Sure, you could do the ghetto approach and destroy the subframe stop to allow the trailing arm to fall further.........but, that's not very professional.

Support the differential and remove the two bolts that hold the differential to the differential mount.

Then remove the two large subframe bushing bolts that hold the subframe to the body up front.

Carefully lower the subfame until the springs fall out.

Be sure you can properly support the subframe at three points........two in the front and one in the back (under the diff).

Also, if the differential mount is original and the rubber is compressed all the way down, you'll gain about 1" if you replace it.

pawoSD · #23 08-21-2009, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

You've got the trailing arm hitting the subframe stop. Sure, you could do the ghetto approach and destroy the subframe stop to allow the trailing arm to fall further.........but, that's not very professional.

Support the differential and remove the two bolts that hold the differential to the differential mount.

Then remove the two large subframe bushing bolts that hold the subframe to the body up front.

Carefully lower the subfame until the springs fall out.

Be sure you can properly support the subframe at three points........two in the front and one in the back (under the diff).

Also, if the differential mount is original and the rubber is compressed all the way down, you'll gain about 1" if you replace it.

That would be quite the feat to pull off at your average pull a part....where the car sits on uneven gravel and dirt....like at our local yard....especially since they don't allow jacks or jack stands in the yard.

Brian Carlton · #24 08-21-2009, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

That would be quite the feat to pull off at your average pull a part....where the car sits on uneven gravel and dirt....like at our local yard....especially since they don't allow jacks or jack stands in the yard.

Apparently, I mistakenly thought that he was working on his own vehicle.

Definitely..........at the pull-a-part.........you just unbolt the diff mount and the subframe bolts and get out of the way. Four bolts and you're done. This might not work at the yard unless the body can be supported..........

ashedd · #25 08-21-2009, 09:24 PM

Ok I will drop the diff mount and sub frame bolts. I have a new diff mount on mine and it still sits low. With 430K some odd miles I think the springs have had it. Should I grab the shocks too? This car at the yard has about 200k on it. I have no idea how old mine are. The SEL at the yard has 100k but the wrong springs.

pawoSD · #26 08-22-2009, 12:11 AM

At our pull a part it would work well, they support the car on the welded rims, on the spare tire well, and one under each front rocker on the sides....so the whole driveline and subframe can be dropped right out unimpeded. I might try it sometime just to see how it works.

There's a couple W126's at the yard right now....

Brian Carlton · #27 08-22-2009, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

I might try it sometime just to see how it works.

There's a couple W126's at the yard right now....

Just be sure you are not below the subframe at any point when you do it. Shouldn't take more than 15 minutes.

pawoSD · #28 08-22-2009, 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Just be sure you are not below the subframe at any point when you do it. Shouldn't take more than 15 minutes.

Indeed, I will be sure to stay clear. I've removed everything short of the subframe before, but never the whole subframe itself......I think I might try it sometime in the next week or two if I go to the yard....especially if there are some nice trailing arms....I'd especially like to get a set off an SEC....since they're aluminum....no rust! Are they aluminum on the SEL's too?

Brian Carlton · #29 08-22-2009, 12:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Indeed, I will be sure to stay clear. I've removed everything short of the subframe before, but never the whole subframe itself......I think I might try it sometime in the next week or two if I go to the yard....especially if there are some nice trailing arms....I'd especially like to get a set off an SEC....since they're aluminum....no rust! Are they aluminum on the SEL's too?

Also.........if the driveshaft is still attached, the subframe will fall downward and forward. If you're close to the subframe when you're doing the two large bolts that hold the forward points, it can still catch you on the way down.

Be careful.

pawoSD · #30 08-22-2009, 12:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Also.........if the driveshaft is still attached, the subframe will fall downward and forward. If you're close to the subframe when you're doing the two large bolts that hold the forward points, it can still catch you on the way down.

Be careful.

I'd stay off to the side and use my longer breaker bar while doing it. Also, I'd probably collect some tires or seats and stuff to pile under it to soften the fall.