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  #1  
Old 05-23-2009, 03:40 AM
pawoSD's Avatar
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Another 300SD with a 2.47 differential transplant - success!

My dad's '83 300SD (daily workhorse) had ailing axles, differential, differential mount, flex disk, center carrier.....the whole assortment. So, we recently managed to snag an excellent condition (despite 330k on it!!) 2.47 differential and axles off of a euro 500SEL at the junk yard for $112 (for all of it!) The differential had 0 play in it, even the slightest movement of any shaft produced movement on the other side....inside it looked new. It must have been well serviced through its life time.

We put up the car on stands and pulled out the entire drive line, from the front flex disk all the way back.

We recycled the original 3.07 diff and axles, the axles were grinding and clunking, and the differential had a massive amount of play in it, close to 1/4 turn between input and output, plus metal shavings coming out in the fluid when it was changed. It passed on with 305k on it.

The axles that came with the 2.47 looked to be in good shape and moved smoothly, but the boots were beginning to crack, so we just went ahead and rebooted them using the pledge+cone+flex3000 boot method. Its very easy to do once you warm the boots in super hot water....maybe 10 minutes per axle if that. Then you just install one of the clamps (I always did the smaller one first) and then fill the boot with about 1/4 quart of gear oil. (Valvoline Durablend 80w90 was used) Then clamp the larger clamp (this can be annoying, two people is a huge help for the whole procedure.

With the diff all cleaned up, both inside and out, and all seals replaced, (output shafts as well as the pinion seal),I re-inserted the axles/clips and then reinstalled the cover and sealed it with the fancy MB sealant. Also replaced was the input yoke for the flex disc, as the gassers have a bigger yoke/disc. This requires a new 12point 30mm locknut. I installed it and used my impact to torque it to around 75-80lbs, I then peened the nut into the locking tab on the shaft, securing it from ever coming undone. An impact is very helpful for these tasks (both install and removal of the yoke nut as well as the rear 22mm diff mount to cover bolts) I just use my 12V harbor freight digital unit connected to an old computer power supply for endless 12Volts.

We lifted the whole unit into the car in one motion(using a floor jack), and just slipped the axles into the hubs as we lifted it in place....way easier this way. Brake calipers did not have to be removed either....nor did the wheels. In fact aside from drive line parts, all I removed from the car was the exhaust, under shield, and rear wheel center caps. I then reinstalled the axle securing bolts, and we set to work at bolting the diff in place. This can be annoying to line up because its a very snug and precise fit. After a while we got it in, and I put in the diff mount. I then installed the drive shaft (I had previously pulled and replaced the center bearing and carrier), and bolted up the flex discs.

The cover was then reinstalled, and then the exhaust, and it was done.

Driving impressions....off the line feels pretty close to a 3.07....slightly slower, but each gear is held much longer, its an interesting experience....it pulls quite strong up to 85+.....the main loss of power is in 4th gear on the highway, its a bit more gradual to increase speed. Noise is gone, the car feels completely different in that regard, its hard to believe its even a diesel, at 70-80mph its virtually quiet, even quieter than with a 3.07 at 55-60mph. All the clunks in the driveline are now gone, and it rides very smooth. The different ratio also made the trans behave differently....in a good way, it shifts more smoothly and less perceptibly. The 2.47 really smooths everything out. My dad is quite pleased and doesn't mind the slight loss of acceleration....if necessary it can be dropped to 3rd and it will pull strong to 80+mph in the 4000-4500rpm range, then it can be put back in 4th to cruise.....its like the car finally has an over drive!

So the project was a success. I am not sure if I'd do it with a 2.47 to my own car, I like the brisk acceleration of the 3.07.....I would readily do a 2.88 though.....I would still go 2.47 if I managed to obtain a limited slip unit.....I'd love to have that for the winter.

Feel free to ask questions about the project...all in all we probably spent about 40-45 hours on it.


I also replaced the shifter bushings while under there, that is a HORRIBLE job, perhaps the worst part of everything I did! Those nylon bushings are REAL hard to get in and out. For the front one I actually removed the shifter lever from the trans, and used a vice to squeeze the bushing into place. The other one my dad managed to get in after about a 15 minute fight. There's got to be a secret or special too for that....am I right??!

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Last edited by pawoSD; 05-23-2009 at 03:47 AM.
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  #2  
Old 05-23-2009, 04:14 AM
ForcedInduction
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Gear oil isn't for axles, you should use actual CV joint grease.

The bushings are easy, you just need a flat blade screwdriver to work it in. The hardest part is getting the retaining clips on/off without it twanging off into oblivion.
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  #3  
Old 05-23-2009, 09:57 AM
Ryan Z's Avatar
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Here's a thread that discusses boot lube. Starts around Post #26.

Flexx Boot Axle Repair Using Cone

---------------------
1984 MB 300SD Turbo
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  #4  
Old 05-23-2009, 10:31 AM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
...... I installed it and used my impact to torque it to around 75-80lbs, I then peened the nut into the locking tab on the shaft, securing it from ever coming undone. An impact is very helpful for these tasks (both install and removal of the yoke nut as well as the rear 22mm diff mount to cover bolts) I just use my 12V harbor freight digital unit connected to an old computer power supply for endless 12Volts. ....!

Where did you get the torque spec for 75-80lbs and procedure to tighten down the flange bolt? I question that this may not be correct. Also using an impact wrench to tighten down is questionable because of the risk of damaging the pinion bearing through the pounding nature of the impact.
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  #5  
Old 05-23-2009, 10:46 AM
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Nothing is a success without pics.........
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Gone:
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'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #6  
Old 05-23-2009, 10:49 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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You sure thats not a 224?

A lot of the euro 500s had 224 diffs.
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #7  
Old 05-23-2009, 11:06 AM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
You sure thats not a 224?

A lot of the euro 500s had 224 diffs.
Nope it has 2.47 stamped on the housing and on the internal gear as well....the 617 would probably just climb out of the engine compartment and crawl away in protest if a 2.24 was used.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
Nothing is a success without pics.........
I don't have a good camera at the moment so I couldn't take any while working on it, but I can try to take some now that its installed.... I may be doing the same project on my car sometime in the near future, I will try to do pictures for that one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
Gear oil isn't for axles, you should use actual CV joint grease.

The bushings are easy, you just need a flat blade screwdriver to work it in. The hardest part is getting the retaining clips on/off without it twanging off into oblivion.
If gear oil isn't for axles, why do they all have oil in them? I put in what came out....which was gear oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
Where did you get the torque spec for 75-80lbs and procedure to tighten down the flange bolt? I question that this may not be correct. Also using an impact wrench to tighten down is questionable because of the risk of damaging the pinion bearing through the pounding nature of the impact.
I only let my little electric impact hit it like 2-3 times.....its no air tool. It can't be much more than that in torque spec because removing it only took about 3-4 hits from the impact....it came off quite easily. I'm not too worried, it is quite durable looking and seems to be working fine....
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Last edited by pawoSD; 05-23-2009 at 11:15 AM.
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  #8  
Old 05-23-2009, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
Nope it has 2.47 stamped on the housing and on the internal gear as well....the 617 would probably just climb out of the engine compartment and crawl away in protest if a 2.24 was used.

.
I ran a 617 with a 2.24 with a 4spd for a 20K miles before swapping it out for a 2.47. For cruise at 70 a 2.24 sure is nice, but 2.47 is the idea ratio for my style of driving. you can shift to 4th about 80 km/hr -> 51 mph.
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1984 Euro 300SDC, (4spd standard)
1986 Toyota Landcruiser Diesel HJ60 5spd X2

Gone but not forgotten (some sold, some stripped)
1983 300 SD, 1985 300 SD, 1983 240D, 1986 300 SDL, 1985 300 SDL, 1983 300 D, 1984 300 D, 1985 300SD, 1987 300 SDL, 1983 300 SD, 1985 300 TD Euro, 1983 380SEC, 1990 300 D, 1987 300D, 1982 300D, 1982 300D, 1994 E420, 1987 300 TD, 1987 300 D, 1984 300 D
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  #9  
Old 05-23-2009, 06:16 PM
ForcedInduction
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
If gear oil isn't for axles, why do they all have oil in them? I put in what came out....which was gear oil.
Gear oil isn't for CV axles. What came out was old grease, not oil.
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  #10  
Old 05-23-2009, 10:26 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
Gear oil isn't for CV axles. What came out was old grease, not oil.
I've never seen grease that is a liquid.........the grease that comes in packets with the flexx boots is way thick and gross (and not nearly enough to pack the cans properly).....the gear oil bathes the entire assembly, I bet it will be just fine....
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #11  
Old 05-23-2009, 10:30 PM
ForcedInduction
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
I've never seen grease that is a liquid.
Thats what happens with age and wear, it breaks down.

Quote:
.the grease that comes in packets with the flexx boots is way thick and gross (and not nearly enough to pack the cans properly)
You may think so, but it comes in that quantity for a reason.

Quote:
.the gear oil bathes the entire assembly
Thats at rest.
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  #12  
Old 05-23-2009, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
Where did you get the torque spec for 75-80lbs and procedure to tighten down the flange bolt? I question that this may not be correct. Also using an impact wrench to tighten down is questionable because of the risk of damaging the pinion bearing through the pounding nature of the impact.
Here is a good thread on that very subject.

www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=233540

Charlie
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Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

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  #13  
Old 05-23-2009, 11:16 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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By putting 1/4 quart inside the boot/can, it fills it high enough that the center shaft and over half of the spider are submerged in oil.....when it spins that oil will be thrown all over the assembly by the ribs in the spider.....I doubt there will be any lubrication issues....if the old grease had turned to liquid and worked for so long, then I bet good gear oil will work just as well.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #14  
Old 05-24-2009, 12:33 AM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
Chairman of my Benz
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
Here is a good thread on that very subject.

www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=233540

Charlie
Exactly Charlie!

You need to measure the pre-load on the pinion not the torque on the nut. I am afraid you might of way over tighten it because it would take more torque to remove it then it would to tighten it down.

The proper procedure is shown starting at 2:00 (two minutes) into this video of a guy setting a Ford diff.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8APYO2sZyJU&feature=related



.
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  #15  
Old 05-24-2009, 01:05 AM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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I was still able to easily turn the assembly by hand after I reinstalled the nut (a new one) that holds on the yoke....it did not appear to have any more or less resistance than it did with the previous yoke installed.....it seemed to turn smoothly/freely....not stiff or binding.....from what I could tell when I put in the yoke it just slides in place and reaches a limit to how far it can go....

Think it will be ok?? I wasn't aware its such a precise science to install the yoke....

Its been driven about 50-60 miles since finishing the job and seems to be running quiet and smooth.....should I be paranoid or will it be ok?

I only went to 80ft/lbs or so on tightening the nut.....I saw in the "setting the load" thread that it could even be much higher than that to attain the proper bearing load.

Hopefully I am lucky.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Last edited by pawoSD; 05-24-2009 at 01:11 AM.
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