Broke Oil Filter Housing Bolt

[shertex]

Please allow me to vent my frustration...and perhaps my stupidity.

Was doing an oil change, replaced the filter, set my torque wrench to 18 ft.-lb., and proceeded to snap off the head of one of the oil filter housing bolts. The %#$(*% wrench never clicked and I didn't have the good sense to know I was over-torquing.

Is it a pretty simple matter for someone to remove the stud and replace the bolt? I have no idea what to do.

Do you "get what you pay for" with torque wrenches? I paid $20 for this thing at Pep Boys and it failed on its second use. Can anyone recommend a good RELIABLE torque wrench that doesn't break the bank?

Thanks.

[tangofox007]

Originally Posted by shertex

Is it a pretty simple matter for someone to remove the stud and replace the bolt?

Yes.

Originally Posted by shertex

Do you "get what you pay for" with torque wrenches? I paid $20 for this thing at Pep Boys and it failed on its second use. Can anyone recommend a good RELIABLE torque wrench that doesn't break the bank?

Thanks.

In my opinion, most folks are better off with a beam-type torque wrench for the lower torque ranges (30 ft/lbs and below, more or less.) They are more reliable than a micrometer type wrench and much less costly.

[shertex]

Can I remove the broken stud with vice grips or something, or is there more to it than that?

[tangofox007]

Originally Posted by shertex

Can I remove the broken stud with vice grips or something, or is there more to it than that?

If there is enough of the stud to grip, you can just unscrew it.

[sixto]

You're lucky if the bolt/stud broke. That's very soft aluminum it threads into.

Sixto
87 300D

[shertex]

Originally Posted by sixto

You're lucky if the bolt/stud broke. That's very soft aluminum it threads into.

Sixto
87 300D

And I suppose it's possible that I BOTH broke the stud AND stripped the threads.

[shertex]

Originally Posted by tangofox007

If there is enough of the stud to grip, you can just unscrew it.

What do I use? I tried vice grips, but no success thus far.

[sixto]

This - http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94640

or a small enough one of these - http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96335

If not for the oil I'd say heat.

Sixto
87 300D

[Diesel911]

I find it odd that using a Torque wrench is the cause of the problem.
I have had defective and worn out "click type" Torque wrenches that would not click right; but if the metal gives way before it is supposed to click it also will not click.

I am thinking the Prior Owners of may have had Oil Changes at the Jiffy-Lube and tune type places who might have over stressed the Stud/threads over the years.

Another owner comes along with a Torque wrench and it snaps off and thinks it was the Torque Wrench.

Better to use USA or Japan made Torque wrenches. I assume Euro made ones by the quality tool companies are good but have no experience with them and they are less available and more expensive. I think if you were going to buy an expensive one you might as well get a Snap-on or other quality American one.

[shertex]

Originally Posted by Diesel911

I find it odd that using a Torque wrench is the cause of the problem.
I have had defective and worn out "click type" Torque wrenches that would not click right; but if the metal gives way before it is supposed to click it also will not click.

But, as I look back, I was certainly (by feel) torquing it was to tight. It "felt" wrong, but I kept listenting for the click.

[scottmcphee]

My buddy came over this w/e to help me R&R the injector pump... and brought a real kick-butt torque wrench that I lusted over: Snap-on digital. This thing rocks. Gives an audible tone when torque is reached, and vibrates the handle for feedback, you stop and read the LCD and it tells you to two decimal places how tight the bolt is... he pays more to calibrate this one, than we spend buying a whole new click type.

BUT the amazing thing is, when he was putting in the bolts on the vacuum pump on the front of the car, he stops torquing before his Snap-on says so. He just stops and says that's enough. Huh-whu? He reads the LCD and looks at the thread pitch on the bolt and sees he's screwing in to aluminum... and declares that's enough for these bolts. Ok, you can't buy a torque wrench with that kinda feel to it.

Cheers
Scott

[shertex]

Having made a valiant effort to remove the broken stud, I gave up and had it towed to my mechanic. Sigh....I guess I'll just look at this as part of my ongoing tuition/education.

[funola]

I was going to suggest a pipe wrench in conjunction with penetrating oil. Let us know how your mechanic get the stud out.

[scottmcphee]

Originally Posted by funola

I was going to suggest a pipe wrench in conjunction with penetrating oil. Let us know how your mechanic get the stud out.

Get a blowtorch going... but that oily firewall may do just that - catch fire.
Ya, be interesting to know what does it.
Maybe he'll swap the part...

[tobybul]

I've never used a torque wrench on the oil filter and have never had a problem. Basically, the o-ring seals the cap to the housing. Using a standard socket wrench, once the bolt meets solid resistance when screwing the cap down, I stop.

I mainly use a torque wrench for the lug nuts.