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  #16  
Old 07-13-2009, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee8go View Post
A Mercedes mechanic I spoke to last week told me that you have to drop the rear subframe assembly out to get to the brake lines. Is this true? If so, how does that work exactly? I see what he means because there is a joint from the main F-B line to the L-R lines which seems to be concealed by the subframe.

Unfortunately the pice does not show the Subframe.

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP=1&F=123193&M=617%2E952&GA=722%2E120315&CT=F&cat=318&SID=42&SGR=090&SGN=05

This is to the whole site:
http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb0.asp?TP=1

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  #17  
Old 07-13-2009, 11:34 AM
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That's helpful for understanding what's involved. I had the CDs for that car, but haven't looked at them yet.

Thanks for the links.
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  #18  
Old 07-14-2009, 01:19 AM
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Unfortunately the long line (Part 17) from the master cylinder to the "T" in back runs between the subframe and the body.
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  #19  
Old 07-14-2009, 08:40 AM
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I replaced mine from the T up to midway on the car last winter. I had a time getting the new line fished up over the subframe, but it was way easier than removal of the subframe(and I have fairly new subframe mounts)

I spliced the old line where it was still good using a regular old AMERICAN double flare. ( the 3/16 line from Mcparts is very close to the 5mm.) I just used an adapter from 3/16 SAE to 5mm bubble at the T.
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  #20  
Old 07-14-2009, 12:23 PM
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It sounds like you replaced the hardest part. Why not just do the whole thing? Mine is leaking somewhere close to the tee in the back. I'd rather just do the whole thing and not have any splices along the way.
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  #21  
Old 07-14-2009, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
thanks guys. i should replace that line. i think i knew it all along.

trouble is that it's a nightmare to replace that 10' line back to the rear without a lift. i may limp this one over to the indy to do. id think with a lift and their skills they'd be able to patch it up very quickly and not cost too much.

dd
Did you get them replaced, Dan? It looks like I'll have to have mine done. I don't have a lift available. I asked an indy mechanic in Vienna what it would cost and he estimeated $500-600. How does that compare with what yours cost?
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  #22  
Old 06-22-2010, 02:28 PM
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Back to this

Guys,

Its been through a year and I now have time to address the brake lines.

I have access to a lift now and a mechanic who suggested I splice in at the part of the car where the rear line goes back from the firewall. I dont have any rust until this point.

The mechanic is renting me the lift for cheap, and he has the double flaring tool. I just need to do the bends, he will do the seals and falres. He assured me they do this all the time (he's a full time tech at a Volvo dealership). He's been very detail oriented thus far on other consultations, so I trust him.

What size line do I need? 5mm? I can I order the right size in generic lengths from somewhere like CarQuest? I didnt see them on PP and Id assume shipping would be huge.


dd
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  #23  
Old 06-24-2010, 02:48 PM
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The brake lines have an outer diameter of 5 mm. The fuel lines have an outer diameter of 8 mm.

I actually got my brake lines from the dealer - it worked out cheaper than buying a flaring kit.
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  #24  
Old 06-24-2010, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
Guys,

Its been through a year and I now have time to address the brake lines.

I have access to a lift now and a mechanic who suggested I splice in at the part of the car where the rear line goes back from the firewall. I dont have any rust until this point.

The mechanic is renting me the lift for cheap, and he has the double flaring tool. I just need to do the bends, he will do the seals and falres. He assured me they do this all the time (he's a full time tech at a Volvo dealership). He's been very detail oriented thus far on other consultations, so I trust him.

What size line do I need? 5mm? I can I order the right size in generic lengths from somewhere like CarQuest? I didnt see them on PP and Id assume shipping would be huge.


dd

Make sure thats actually legal in MA if you have an inspection coming up. Just a word or warning. Bought a car in VT where brake line unions are legal, and tried to register it in RI, where I discovered that they are specifically illegal for the safety inspection.

Junction blocks were fine, but a line to line union was a big no no. Had to replace the whole brake line from junction block to junction block.

have no idea what the MA rules are, but it would be worth knowing before you do something that you might have to undo later.
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  #25  
Old 06-24-2010, 03:34 PM
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Wrong you don't have to drop anything..contact fedhill brake lines and make up new lines with cufner lines very easy to work with and will not rust, you can use your old fittings if there not damaged..just a thought done this many times. just remember to bubble double flare your new lines and put the fittings on before you flare, lol, Federal Hill Trading Company
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  #26  
Old 07-30-2010, 08:55 AM
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Per the suggestion of other forum members I have ordered the lines from the dealer and will be installing them today. No lift, just high up on jackstands.

I'm going to do all 5 lines and 4 rubber hoses.

$150 from the dealer for all 5 brake lines, with fittings and flares already, just not shaped.
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  #27  
Old 07-30-2010, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
Per the suggestion of other forum members I have ordered the lines from the dealer and will be installing them today. No lift, just high up on jackstands.

I'm going to do all 5 lines and 4 rubber hoses.

$150 from the dealer for all 5 brake lines, with fittings and flares already, just not shaped.
Good luck - I did mine about a month ago now with the same pipes from the dealer... I didn't come up against any real problems other than a little bit of a lack of space under the car when it is only on jack stands!
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  #28  
Old 07-30-2010, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
They also sell the "Bubble" Flaring kits. I bought one several months ago it was about $24 from one of the Ebay Sellers and while a China Import is marketed by the too company OTC.

They may be available from the local autoparts but I did not look.
The OTC kit is decent. I own one, and it produces good bubble flares.
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  #29  
Old 07-30-2010, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobetta View Post
I replaced mine from the T up to midway on the car last winter. I had a time getting the new line fished up over the subframe, but it was way easier than removal of the subframe(and I have fairly new subframe mounts)

I spliced the old line where it was still good using a regular old AMERICAN double flare. ( the 3/16 line from Mcparts is very close to the 5mm.) I just used an adapter from 3/16 SAE to 5mm bubble at the T.
I had to replace the high-pressure SLS line last fall on my wagon, which required dropping the front of the subframe, not full removal. That's not so big a deal -- just pull the big bolts at the mounts and let it hang.

I spliced in a piece of line and would have used bubble flares but I couldn't find any unions that would fit them (this is for bigger line than the brakes -- 1/4 or 6 mm. maybe). So I had to put double flares at the union. It sealed just fine, and it handles constant high pressure when in operation.
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  #30  
Old 07-30-2010, 12:12 PM
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it is a pita to replace the long line, but it can be done w/out dropping the subframe. it requires patience and careful bending of the line. i did it on my td. it was a dirty irritating job, but it works, the line is not rubbing anything that will wear a hole in it. i would never use compression fittings on brake lines btw. they may leak at some point, just not safe. factory long line isn't that expensive anyway.

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