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#16
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Quote:
Unfortunately the pice does not show the Subframe. http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP=1&F=123193&M=617%2E952&GA=722%2E120315&CT=F&cat=318&SID=42&SGR=090&SGN=05 This is to the whole site: http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb0.asp?TP=1
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#17
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That's helpful for understanding what's involved. I had the CDs for that car, but haven't looked at them yet.
Thanks for the links.
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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century OBK #55 1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles 2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles 2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles |
#18
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Unfortunately the long line (Part 17) from the master cylinder to the "T" in back runs between the subframe and the body.
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1984 300TD |
#19
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I replaced mine from the T up to midway on the car last winter. I had a time getting the new line fished up over the subframe, but it was way easier than removal of the subframe(and I have fairly new subframe mounts)
I spliced the old line where it was still good using a regular old AMERICAN double flare. ( the 3/16 line from Mcparts is very close to the 5mm.) I just used an adapter from 3/16 SAE to 5mm bubble at the T.
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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven. 1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven. |
#20
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It sounds like you replaced the hardest part. Why not just do the whole thing? Mine is leaking somewhere close to the tee in the back. I'd rather just do the whole thing and not have any splices along the way.
__________________
" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century OBK #55 1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles 2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles 2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles |
#21
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Quote:
__________________
" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century OBK #55 1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles 2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles 2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles |
#22
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Back to this
Guys,
Its been through a year and I now have time to address the brake lines. I have access to a lift now and a mechanic who suggested I splice in at the part of the car where the rear line goes back from the firewall. I dont have any rust until this point. The mechanic is renting me the lift for cheap, and he has the double flaring tool. I just need to do the bends, he will do the seals and falres. He assured me they do this all the time (he's a full time tech at a Volvo dealership). He's been very detail oriented thus far on other consultations, so I trust him. What size line do I need? 5mm? I can I order the right size in generic lengths from somewhere like CarQuest? I didnt see them on PP and Id assume shipping would be huge. dd
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#23
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The brake lines have an outer diameter of 5 mm. The fuel lines have an outer diameter of 8 mm.
I actually got my brake lines from the dealer - it worked out cheaper than buying a flaring kit. |
#24
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Quote:
Make sure thats actually legal in MA if you have an inspection coming up. Just a word or warning. Bought a car in VT where brake line unions are legal, and tried to register it in RI, where I discovered that they are specifically illegal for the safety inspection. Junction blocks were fine, but a line to line union was a big no no. Had to replace the whole brake line from junction block to junction block. have no idea what the MA rules are, but it would be worth knowing before you do something that you might have to undo later.
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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr. |
#25
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Wrong you don't have to drop anything..contact fedhill brake lines and make up new lines with cufner lines very easy to work with and will not rust, you can use your old fittings if there not damaged..just a thought done this many times. just remember to bubble double flare your new lines and put the fittings on before you flare, lol, Federal Hill Trading Company
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#26
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Per the suggestion of other forum members I have ordered the lines from the dealer and will be installing them today. No lift, just high up on jackstands.
I'm going to do all 5 lines and 4 rubber hoses. $150 from the dealer for all 5 brake lines, with fittings and flares already, just not shaped.
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#27
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Quote:
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#28
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The OTC kit is decent. I own one, and it produces good bubble flares.
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#29
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Quote:
I spliced in a piece of line and would have used bubble flares but I couldn't find any unions that would fit them (this is for bigger line than the brakes -- 1/4 or 6 mm. maybe). So I had to put double flares at the union. It sealed just fine, and it handles constant high pressure when in operation. |
#30
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it is a pita to replace the long line, but it can be done w/out dropping the subframe. it requires patience and careful bending of the line. i did it on my td. it was a dirty irritating job, but it works, the line is not rubbing anything that will wear a hole in it. i would never use compression fittings on brake lines btw. they may leak at some point, just not safe. factory long line isn't that expensive anyway.
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1984 300TD "MAX" 303K+ still going... fast '70 Chevelle 200k+ home built Shovelhead chopper |
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