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#46
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Don't do it.
MB's are so much more satisfying to drive. However, I am the only one that relies on mine so it doesn't bother me too much to have to work on it and schedule my life around my car maintenance schedule. And, yes, I do schedule my life around my car maintenance schedule. Is that wrong?
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1993 W124 300D -297K on the clock as I type this. |
#47
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Just my $0.02... |
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I figured the electic fans in front of the radiator should turn on once the engine gets to a warmer temprature. My car almost always runs at or above 100 degrees C. Even when the engine gets close to 120 degrees, the electric fans don't turn on, when are they supposed to turn on? Does one turn on with the AC? Quote:
I'm trying to work through all the issues, but I spend alot of time on this car, and I haven't been able to quickly address the probelms. I plan on checking the timing chain during the next few days when I get a few hours of time. I don't have an account with a dealer getting wholesale prices so all of these little nick-nack parts add up when you paying full rip off retail for them. (So how do I get one? ) Quote:
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Just as an example about fixing a "simple" fix, changing the water pump is not typically a challening task, but it turns out I need a $80 pump from germany, 2-3 specialty tools to get the fan clutch on and off, and replace the fan with a later model mod to make it worth while and cost effective. I agree, not too hard, but buying the tools to do the job once in the next 100k miles still is irratating. I'm sorry I'm ranting, I'm excited about this car turning into what I hope it can be, my wife is just giving me lots of crap altely about this car, and after yesterday and previous few big car failures (front ball joint failure was a biggie about 4 months ago) I'm losing credibility with all the time I'm spending on it. I hope to make it to a junk yard tommorrow (1 hour away) to remove the hard lines from a donor car. I'm ordering the fuel line clips tonight. I plan on pulling the intake crossover tommorrow and then valve cover so I can check the timing during the next few days. Wish me luck and thanks for your encouragement. It does help me hope that the car will be cool.
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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo 150k miles 1999 F250 7.3L Powerstroke 225k miles 22mpg Intro Thread |
#49
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Here is a video of me checking the fan clutch at 120 degrees C.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QohSp4j70s
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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo 150k miles 1999 F250 7.3L Powerstroke 225k miles 22mpg Intro Thread |
#50
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Rocket,
Offer still stands. I've also got a spare IP if you need it, though I'm not sure how well it works. Dana
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'91 300D 2.5 Turbo 330K '00 VW TDI Golf, 190K '67 BMW R50/2 '73 Norton Commando Interstate |
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Thanks Dana,
I'm not ready to call it quits yet, but I'm happy to know that there is place nearby that if I get totally frustrated I can go to your recommended shop. How does one verify that the injection pump is good? I'm going to check the timing over the next day or two, and then revist the rough idle after that.
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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo 150k miles 1999 F250 7.3L Powerstroke 225k miles 22mpg Intro Thread |
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#53
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It was a Behr T-stat Quote:
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I'm a sucker for projects so I may consider making my own pop test rig. Did you make one, or did you send them out? I currently have the original injectors in (pretty sure original to the car) and there seems to be a lot more nailing. With the new set, I think only one injector is nailing. Quote:
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I also had a cool dream to take a 124 300CE and swap a 603 diesel into it and make a "rare" convertible diesel... got to get this all sorted out before I go that far. Quote:
How does the 87 124 6 cylinder compare in driving and performance to the 2.5? Is it a big difference in performance and acceloration? Which one do you like more, 3L, or 2.5?
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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo 150k miles 1999 F250 7.3L Powerstroke 225k miles 22mpg Intro Thread |
#54
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Free online, or fairly cheap to buy a bootleg off-line version if desired:
http://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/ Quote:
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Which do I prefer? Well, the 90-up models have a lot more goodies and upgrades... wood on the doors & dash, optional ASD, updated exteriors, one-touch-down windows, etc. I like all that, but I don't like the reduced power. The 1987 is more spartan, but it's got the power (grunt, grunt!). So, I ended up converting my '87 pretty much into a 1990-93 spec (wood, leather, etc) and plan to do the full exterior facelift when it gets painted eventually (it will look like a 1995 model when I'm done). The 1995 E300 would save all that hassle, but since it's a non-turbo, you can't increase the power output without an engine swap. That's the one nice thing about the turbo engines... you can increase the power relatively easily. The E300 has more power than the 2.5T, but less than the 1987. Kinda depend what you're looking for, I guess. At high elevations, the non-turbo will lose power, while the turbo does not... something else to consider, depending on where you live, or where you travel. The ultimate would be to get a 1994-95 version of the 3.0 turbo (124.133 chassis) which was only sold in Europe, not in North America. It would save all the effort of upgrading a 1987, but likely would cost as much or more, if you could even import one at all. I'll take one in Almandine Red with dual-zone climate control, thank you. If you want power, just get a nice E420, lol... the MPG ain't nearly as bad as you think on those! I've been pleasantly surprised with mine, but the cost & complexity of maintenance is significantly higher on the M119 compared to the OM60x diesel. |
#55
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'91 300D 2.5 Turbo 330K '00 VW TDI Golf, 190K '67 BMW R50/2 '73 Norton Commando Interstate |
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I also broke the plastic plug in the top of the valve cover trying to pry it out, so now I need to go figure out how to identify that part too. Also, should I replace the valve cover gasket? It looks like a nice all rubber one, and since I can't find the job I'm guessing at what to torque it to.
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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo 150k miles 1999 F250 7.3L Powerstroke 225k miles 22mpg Intro Thread |
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Felt nice and soft, so I don't think I'll worry about it at this time. I also looked closer at the fan shroud, and it isn't that busted up, but it does have a split in it. I also ordered injector hardlines and mounting plastic last night, along with 606 clutch, fan, temp switch. Are you sure you can see the crank index needle with the belt and fan in the way? I looked all over with shop light and flash light and it looks like from the service doc that the index needle is in the 12 Oclock position when looking at the crank balancer when looking front to back?? Plan is to get chain stretch checked, check IP timing, and then focus on cooling system all squared away, after that injector nailing. Which way do you prefer to do IP timing? It looks like there is a instrument intesive method (electric) or the drip method. Any good threads, how tos, special tools or comments on being prepared to do after I verify timing chain? Then I'll work on injectors and nailing, and I think I'll bite the bullet and build myself a pop tester. I also tried to setup the EPC last night and got too tired after the Java installation. I'll try to play with it some more tonight. As always, you rock and thanks for the help! Was up to 2:30 am again reading after getting the car back together so I could drive to work today!!
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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo 150k miles 1999 F250 7.3L Powerstroke 225k miles 22mpg Intro Thread |
#59
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Remember that if your chain is stretched by X degrees, the IP timing will be retarded by X/2 degrees. For example if the chain is off 6 degrees (6° ATDC instead of zero/TDC), the IP will be off by 3 degrees (17° ATDC instead of 14° ATDC). If this is the case, when you roll in a new chain, it will automatically advance the IP timing. Keep that in mind before making any adjustments... |
#60
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I agree, GSXR is the shiznit.
I had a very, very hard shifting transmission until I isolated a pretty serious vac leak in the rat's nest near the air filter box. It wasn't until I... 1) plugged off the supply line from the vac pump to that mess 2) did the pressure wastegate mod 3) moved the modulator key on on the side of the tranny four positions clockwise(because it had too much vacuum after isolating the leak and plugging the line leading to it causing it to shift way too softly-adjusting this key clockwise firms up shifts) 4) adjusted the vacuum doohickey on the IP by loosening both bolts, pulling the throttle wide open and rotating clockwise until I felt resistance and retightening the bolts ...that I got silky, buttery smooth and positive shifts from this Teutonic work of art. When I started this project, it would shift so hard that I thought the rear end would fall out of the car and I drove it like this for about 10K miles. I continue to be impressed with the adjustability and solidity of the design of this vehicle. Even when all seems lost, I haven't actually had a truly serious problem with the car.(knocks on wood) It's a matter of $olving the riddle one piece at a time. It's the beauty and the challenge. Good luck convincing your wife that's the case....
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1993 W124 300D -297K on the clock as I type this. Last edited by i-osprey; 06-17-2009 at 07:13 PM. |
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