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  #31  
Old 06-15-2009, 11:23 PM
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The pan can be tig welded. It will have to be removed from the car.

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Originally Posted by a2t View Post
im not set up for that and really dont want to get into pulling an engine in my garage. im going back and forth with repairing vs replacing the pan.

the good news regarding repairing is if i stop drill the cracks i can clean the shavings from inside the pan, due to the side cover that bolts on. it allows good access to the area, so i could ensure its clean.

but i hate to drive the engine on a repaired pan, unless i get the pan out and take it to my machine shop and have them professionally tig weld it.

donno what to do....wish i had some good tips on R/R 603 pan to decide if its possible w.engine in the car. at least im on vacation now, 20 beers into the day and the fish were biting in Destin. Red snapper is gooooood
The safest bet is to replace the pan. You will need an engine hoist to lift the engine high enough to remove the pan, but it is doable in two days or less. Be glad the case didn't crack all the way open and lost the oil along with your engine. Also, hardly anything is ever cheap to repair on these cars. Replacing an oil pan is about as cheap and lucky as you are going to get dealing with a near catastrophe.

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  #32  
Old 06-16-2009, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimFreeh View Post
I would not bother trying to remove the pan with the engine in situ - I'd remove the engine if I had to do this job.

I also agree with prior posters, don't try to repair the old pan.

As an aside not all aluminum alloys are weldable and many of the ones that are lose a significant amount of strength when they are subjected to the welding process (unless they are properly heat treated after the welding is complete)

If you absolutely have to fix the pan I'd recommend brazing it - you need special fluxes but it works pretty well.
Removing the engine is a major PIA.

Lifting it a couple of inches needed to remove the pan is easy. I did it a month ago to replace the oil pump. It can be done in a few hours.

The dealer is on crack. 6 hours?
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  #33  
Old 06-17-2009, 11:08 AM
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OK thanks. Sounds like some good options here.

So does anyone have any tips for the job? Do all those 50 bolts just come right out, or are some opposite thread/you need special tool/ect... ? Once all the bolts are out, is there some trick to actually getting the pan out? The manual says something about having to rotate crank shaft to gain clearance? Also, how high does engine need to be lifted to do this? How high can it be safely lifted?

Any and all help greatly appreciated. I guess I will change out motor mounts too, been meaning to do that...
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  #34  
Old 06-17-2009, 05:28 PM
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I first removed the bolts that fasten the transmission cooler lines to the block and pan. The lines remain attached to the cooler.

I disconnected the exhaust pipe and the it's connection to the transmission mount as well as removing the 2 bolts at the rear transmission mount. This is because I figured since I was leaving the transmission attached, that the trans would need to tilt up. This might have been unnecessary.

I removed the fan shroud and then removed the fan clutch/blade. The radiator does not have to come out.

Remove the motor mount bolts and the engine shocks.

I disconnected the air tube going to the turbo and also the throttle linkage and the upper radiator hose. I did not lose a drop of coolant.

This might have been all that I removed. I then attached a heavy strap at the engine lift points and lifted the engine up maybe 2 inches, little by little while looking everything over for binding and pulling.

I then removed the side pan here as it needs to be removed to get at all the pan bolts. Watch out here, as some oil will come out. Remove the rest and hit the pan with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer to loosen it.

I did not have to rotate the crank. The pan came right out. The engine was lifted just enough to get the rear of the pan over the cross member with a little tilting.

I hope I didn't forget anything. (I almost forgot about the motor mounts and engine shocks)
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  #35  
Old 06-18-2009, 09:12 AM
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Thanks. Were those instructions for a 124 or 126 chassis?

I dont believe my car has engine shocks. And Im almost positive the front sway bar needs to be removed, 1/4 of the pan goes over it.
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  #36  
Old 06-18-2009, 10:25 AM
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Mine was a W126.
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'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
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  #37  
Old 06-18-2009, 12:24 PM
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Wow. Are you SURE that was a dog?

Anyway - book time is 5.0 hours and I believe every minute of it. The dealer estimate of 6.0 is reasonable, IMO. Cleaning the block surface in the car will be a real pain, the old gasket gets almost cemented on there. I'd see if you could get it properly welded with the pan on the car (may need to drain the oil while it's being welded). I would be more nervous about a JB-Weld fix, unless this is a beater car you're not really concerned about. If you have collision coverage (not many people do on a vehicle this old), definitely call and inquire about that... it should be covered.

A new pan is $350-400, but a couple people are parting out OM603 engines at the moment... one of them may have a good used pan for sale. Just make sure it's a 1986/1987 3.0L donor engine, the 1990-95 3.5L has a slightly different pan. I've never pulled the pan with the engine in the car, it sure doesn't look like fun. I'd plan on 10-20 hours as a first-time DIY.

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  #38  
Old 06-19-2009, 08:28 AM
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It was either a dog, or Chubakka.

Thanks Dave, Im seeing about a mobile TIG service. The car isnt a beater but its got nearly 300k miles, its worth maybe $1.5k w/o the veg oil kit installed so I really dont want to drop $1k at an Indy. But it needs to be fixed right, we're driving the family up to NC over 4th July and I really want to avoid paperweight-ing the motor, if at all possible!
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  #39  
Old 06-19-2009, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a2t View Post
Im seeing about a mobile TIG service....
If you are thinking about trying to TIG weld that pan without removing the pan and cleaning out ALL the residual oil that will still be in the pan make sure you have a large fire extinguisher handy - because you are going to need it.
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  #40  
Old 06-19-2009, 11:26 AM
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You could pull the side sump off the pan and make sure it's clean & dry on the inside prior to welding... but the welding guy should be able to tell you how much risk there is.

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  #41  
Old 06-19-2009, 09:24 PM
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fix it right.

remove pan from motor. repair or replace. if strapped for time, I would just replace.

also get new motor mounts. you are unbolting them anyway. . .300k. its time for new ones.

a lot of work yes. but not impossible. only special tool required is a cherry picker.

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  #42  
Old 06-19-2009, 10:43 PM
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new to me 87' 300D (reading a lot and trying to learn)
Brian, as a new 1987 300D owner, you may want to read this article about that particular year & model... might answer a few questions for you.

Paul, sorry for the derailment, now back to the oil pan topic!

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  #43  
Old 06-20-2009, 12:29 AM
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yeah my TIG guy thinks Im smokin somethin. he wont touch it unless the pan is removed from the car. theres no more oil in it, and its clean but he still wont do it. guess i cant argue.

hmm....jb....fiberglass...or dust off the cherry picker. i got a decision to make. prob bite the bullet and remove the pan. he can reweld it once its off, that will save me $400 on a new pan minus the $100 or so to TIG and blend it. if I try jb or fiberglass it and it doesnt hold, we wont be able to TIG the pan because there will be too much crap in there. might as well just pull it and TIG. Will also waste my time on Mon and call Fulton county, see if they will pay for any of this (yeah right).
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  #44  
Old 06-28-2009, 12:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
Brian, as a new 1987 300D owner, you may want to read this article about that particular year & model... might answer a few questions for you.

Paul, sorry for the derailment, now back to the oil pan topic!


Thanks!!! I have had the car over a year now. read all that stuff. I need to update my sig!

thanks for the link. been to your site a few times. great photos.

Back on subject. . . Is the 87 in question fixed yet???
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