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  #46  
Old 06-17-2009, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TylerH860 View Post
Started the car, but haven't driven it yet. It has a distinct lifter noise.

Since the car has been sitting for many years and the oil looks thin, we are going to change the oil and drive it 10 miles or so to see if it goes away. I hope the hydraulic lifters will right themselves with the fresh oil.
My 603 has a noisy lifter at idle that goes away above 1.5k to 2k. I changed to synthetic right after I purchased and now have 3k on that oil. Lifter tick is still there.

I read somewhere on this forum that it may take many thousands of miles (if ever) for the noise to go away.

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  #47  
Old 06-17-2009, 12:38 PM
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Random question, but why do the diesels with hydraulic lifters seem to have more issues with ticking than the gassers? The M103 has hydraulic lifters....and mine with 140k on it is silent... any reason it happens more on the diesels?
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  #48  
Old 06-17-2009, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bio300TDTdriver View Post
Have you checked to see which head is on each car? I still don't think your new car came with the #22 head. The number is under the crossover on the intake.
I looked at the '87 head and its a #14. I have not looked at the existing one on mine yet.
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  #49  
Old 06-17-2009, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mplafleur View Post
With all those Benz's you are acquiring, it's time you did some of your own work. Pulling the head isn't tough and should cost you $200 in parts. It will also teach you alot about these engines and will be worth the effort.

From what I read, it does not have the symptoms of being a rod bender.
X 2

Last edited by Skid Row Joe; 06-17-2009 at 02:30 PM.
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  #50  
Old 06-17-2009, 02:29 PM
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Yes, obviously the pertinent head gasket issue has nothing to do with the rods, but if some of you would read and process my line of reasoning I laid out multiple times in previous posts, you would understand why I'm doing this. I am not going to repeat myself again.

I am going to swing by the dealer where this car was serviced since '92 and see if any major motor work has been done. If its had a factory replacement at some point in its life, it may give me pause.

Bob also agreed to the vacuum pump switch, but we have not discussed the head yet since I'm uncertain whether the current one is good or not.
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  #51  
Old 06-18-2009, 07:27 PM
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I can understand your desire to take the option that is easier and less expensive, but considering the three failure items on the 3.0L: Heads, vacuum pumps, and front covers, are usually not an issue on the 3.5, and that a failure of any one of them will cost plenty, it is worth considering.

Also, my '91 350SDL came with a #22 head when I bought it at 247,000miles, so there must be some head-failure issues on the 3.5L engine and their original heads.

Best of luck, hope it's something easy.

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