Oil leak from bottom of IP, '93 W124 300D - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

i-osprey · #1 06-23-2009, 02:10 AM

Now that I have cleaned up my fuel leaks from the IP and stop lever I have noticed that the black stuff on the bottom of the IP is still there.

I have cleaned the IP off several times while hunting down leaks and preparing it for the O-ring and pressure valve seal replacements so the oil on the bottom is an oil leak for sure.

Could I just tighten the bolts on the bottom or is it realistic for me to be able to remove the bottom plate and replace the gasket(assuming there is one there)?

I don't know anything about the IP internals so I definitely won't be taking it apart until I know for sure.

I guess the oil could be coming from somewhere else but it definitely looks like the oil is seeping "up" from the bottom plate of the IP.

vtmbz · #2 06-23-2009, 09:28 AM

I am chasing the same leak; in my case it is the side cover plate that is leaking. Thats a good thing since I dont think I could replace the bottom gasket without removing the pump. The gasket is hardened and one of the screws was missing. I called a Bosch service center and they are dropping off the gasket at the local general store when they drive by next... top that Bryan!

amg280 · #3 06-23-2009, 01:19 PM

I have this same leak you speak of. Let me know what you find.

TimFreeh · #4 06-23-2009, 01:48 PM

There have been quite a few discussions of this issue over the years - try a search.

Most everybody agrees that the only way to change the bottom gasket was to remove the IP - but there was one person here that claimed he was able to replace the gasket with the pump in situ.

I remember when he said he was able to do this I immediately thought "no way" but the last time I had my car up on the lift I looked carefully around the area of the bottom of the IP and I came to the conclusion that it might be possible - but it sure wouldn't be easy.

When I resealed my the IP on my 91 2.5 turbo I removed the pump - once the pump is on the bench its a 15 minute job to change the seals.

i-osprey · #5 06-24-2009, 01:38 AM

How hard is it to remove the IP?

Are there any other issues I might be able to resolve with the IP out?

TimFreeh · #6 06-24-2009, 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by i-osprey

How hard is it to remove the IP?

Are there any other issues I might be able to resolve with the IP out?

It's not too hard, I'd rate it a 6 or 7 on a 1-10 scale. You do need some specialized tools to properly time the IP to the engine but you can "get-by' without them. Read the procedure in the 603 engine manual carefully and don't forget the the bolt that secures the IP timer is left-hand thread. Also don't forget about the 13mm bolt at the extreme rear of the pump.

I'm not sure what you mean by your second question, If I was removing the pump I'd replace all the seals before I re-installed it - that might resolve future leaks. You might also want to consider replacing the seals on the fuel heater - they also will leak over time and its much easier to get at the fuel heater with the IP out of the way.

i-osprey · #7 06-26-2009, 12:57 AM

That's exactly what I meant by that.

This is a 602 engine, though.

Does the timing device you speak of look like this?

compress ignite · #8 06-26-2009, 04:41 PM

I believe it was gsxr that suggested the Official version with the RED plastic
handle was more finely machined in the Slot and fitted the IP shaft indent
better.

i-osprey · #9 06-27-2009, 01:39 AM

Does anybody have a link to the complete procedure for adjusting timing?

My timing chain is spot on, my IP has new delivery valve o-rings and pressure valve seals and my mpg is going down.

I know that it's really hot, my A/C is working it's tail off and one of my auxiliary fans has stopped working, but I expect better than 25 mpg in almost all highway driving.

I must also say that I drive in a very hilly and very windy part of the world but if some posters on here are telling the truth about their MPG(38.4?, 30/31 in mixed driving?) I am getting hosed.