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Weak to no reverse on my SDL
Reverse had been taking longer and longer to engage on my SDL. When I got the car it took about 2 seconds, and doing a transmission service didn't affect it. This past month the delay had gotten worse. Today when I pulled into work after getting on to the highway I had no reverse at all
What should I check now? The fluid is clean (and slightly overfilled, I'll be fixing that tonight). Thanks, -Jason
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states! Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels. 2014 Cadillac ELR 2013 Fiat 500E. |
#2
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B3 band needs to be adjusted. Unfortunately I don't think that your transmission has an external adjustment screw like the older ones did. IIRC 722.0-722.2 trannies had the external screw. You can try and clean off the valve body which may help get the fluid to the right places more quickly, but if it gets progressively worse I'd say you need a new B3 band which ain't cheap.
Edit: Check out this thread, same issue: slipping/slow engagement of reverse
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth Last edited by tbomachines; 06-23-2009 at 08:56 AM. Reason: added link |
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Damnit
Thanks guys. |
#4
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I had a Buick that did this. I put in some snake oil stuff called Transmission Fix and the problem went away. Made by Lucas Oil. Worked for me, just give a couple of weeks to work. Not sure what it does but it worked. It's been 3 years and I have not had a problem since in the car. It's like thick honey and U use half a liter or so, about half a quart bottle.
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1982 300SD |
#5
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From what I hear, the Lucas oil stuff works for a week or two then bogs down again. Most likely that would be caused by clogged strainers in the valve body. Compu If I were you I'd drop the valve body when you change out the filter/fluid (said it was overfilled anyways, which won't help) and make sure everything is clean and intact. Your problem certainly could be caused by fluid blockage within, worth a check. It is worth not having to buy a new transmission or having to replace the B3...you'd at least have peace of mind.
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
#6
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Ya, I'll try that first. The PO said a new trans was installed 60k ago! The bottom pan is new, the part number sticker was virtually new when I got the car.
-Jason
__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states! Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels. 2014 Cadillac ELR 2013 Fiat 500E. |
#7
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My 300sel takes a good 4-6 seconds to engage reverse too. With nearly 300k, it's days are limited. PO had it resealed, which is good... but why they didn't go thru it at the time is beyond me. My mistreated SD and SDL still take up reverse quick.
PM me and I'll mail you the factory manual on the 722.3 It's not a super complex trans by any means, you'll see when you check the PDF Rev clutch pack is behind the 3rd gear pack and the B1 band. So if you wanna do it quick, just replace those two clutch packs, reseal it, and drive on. Buy your kit from bulkpart.com Install the shift kit from Superior trans to clean up all the up and down shifts. A cat I know rebuilds the ZF trans in my BMWs, he may do the 722.3, I'll have to ask him if you're serious. The FULL REMAN on the ZF isn't even $1k. Change your rear main while in there!
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#8
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You're in Hell MI?
I am tempted to work on this myself because I've never messed with an automatic before and would like the experience... though a cheap price to have it done right sounds good right about now (see my mystery tappity sound thread... that's still an ongoing issue!) Does the engine have to come out with the trans or can you just slip it off the back? The thing that bums me out the most is I've only driven this car 6k miles and its giving me a bunch of problems -J |
#9
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Quote:
You can remove the trans without removing the engine....it can come out from below. The worst part is trying to undo the bolts holding it to the motor, not easy to reach them! I'm pretty sure Hit Man X is in Texas.... I am in MI though! On the West Coast! We have a trans shop around here that will rebuild a 722.3xx for like $950ish....pretty good!
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#10
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If you can follow directions, you could probably manage.
Can drop it off the back end.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#11
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What I would be worried about on the cheap-o rebuilds is whether they took the time to completely pull the clutch packs apart and change the flange to drum sealing o-ring that can leak over time. It takes lots of time to get to all the seals and time is money to a shop. They will only be interested in getting you down the road during their warranty period whereas you may be interested in keeping the car on the road for ten years.
Rick
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#12
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At this point I might just pull the whole damn drivetrain, maybe then I can take things apart more easily and figure out what the clicking sound is.
-J |
#13
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Quote:
I agree, chances are very slim a local shop will do the proper work. The $3k pricing is comical at best. The 722.3 is very simple. I can buy full race transmissions for less cash. The $700 to R&R is CRAZY on it in this car too. Anyway, I saw some cats on ebay doing the 722.3 for about $1100. Just an idea for reman pricing.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#14
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And...you will never know within the short warranty period whether they bought new frictions or just reused yours or somebody else's. Unless you stand there and watch them rebuild it....
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#15
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Well I've gotten quotes from a couple different shops, they're all around $2700
-J
__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states! Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels. 2014 Cadillac ELR 2013 Fiat 500E. Last edited by compu_85; 07-28-2009 at 06:54 PM. |
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