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  #16  
Old 06-28-2009, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
seems to me that there are so many variables with filling by pressure - you are better off, if at all possible, to fill by mass. This perhaps makes it easy.

filled by mass I thought. should have been 40 oz, I put in 2 cans so should be less than 24 oz, yet the pressures seem wrong. I put in 2 cans without even looking at the guages because it should have taken 3+ cans

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  #17  
Old 06-28-2009, 07:14 PM
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expansion valve issue...
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  #18  
Old 06-28-2009, 07:15 PM
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JH is right on the money here. Filling by weight is MUCH more accurate. I use a cannister and a charging scale which most folks don't have, but you usually can get closer by charging with a certain number of cans, even if you're guessing for that fraction of a can, than charging by pressure, especially with the junk refrigerants.
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  #19  
Old 06-28-2009, 07:19 PM
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A heated charging cylinder makes it even easier yet. Nearly fool-proof, and you can start charging as a gas without running the compressor until the very end.
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  #20  
Old 06-28-2009, 07:22 PM
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so still something is strange. it should have been 2.6 pounds, I put in 2 cans which isnt even 2 pounds
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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  #21  
Old 06-28-2009, 07:28 PM
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Lutz, that pic of the green canister holder is what I have. I thought I was going to get pics, but dealing with my daughter's car accident made pe put everything on hold...Sorry man!

What are your pressures?
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  #22  
Old 06-28-2009, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt L View Post
Connect the refrigerant can to the additional low-side fitting. With the refrigerant valve closed and both manifold valves open, vacuum the system. Then turn off the vacuum pump, close the manifold valves, and immediately open the refrigerant valve.

My manifold gauge set has four valves, which makes things a lot easier.
This leaves air in the refrigerant line connected to the can. You should purge the air from this line before you use the above procedure.
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  #23  
Old 06-28-2009, 08:07 PM
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I used the freeze-12 charge line to my center port on my guage. It has a purge nipple so I did purge the supply line before opening the valve to fill the car

pressures at idle, 85 ambient temp, 57 vent temp. my flappers do not seem to be working so this is fresh outside air all the time.

at idle low side 40, high side 225

at 1500 low side 25, high side 240
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

Last edited by lutzTD; 06-28-2009 at 08:21 PM.
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  #24  
Old 06-28-2009, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techguy512 View Post
This leaves air in the refrigerant line connected to the can. You should purge the air from this line before you use the above procedure.
Not if you evacuate it with your pump, when you do the car. If the valve at the can is closed, but the line is open to the pump, it will be evacuated. That was my intention.

But yes, you could also purge the line of air. Releasing a bit of refrigerant to purge the lines is specifically allowed per the EPA. And not just a good idea if you didn't evacuate the line with your vacuum pump, but it is essential.
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  #25  
Old 06-28-2009, 08:26 PM
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I filled my car with R-409 it worked well and i just went by the sightglass if you see bubbles in the glass then you need to add a little more, freeze 12 reqires about 20% less in the system than r12.

Also, if you REALLY want cold temps add a shot of r22 to the mix, then you will be seeing crazy low temps.
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  #26  
Old 06-28-2009, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Cervan View Post
I filled my car with ...
I would suggest not putting this sort of information on a public forum.
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  #27  
Old 06-28-2009, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt L View Post
If the valve at the can is closed, but the line is open to the pump, it will be evacuated.
Many of the inexpensive can taps (such as the one shown in the photo earlier in this thread) don't have valves at the can.

All I'm trying to say is that it is critical that air not be introduced into the system. Take any and all precautions and preventative measures.....
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  #28  
Old 06-28-2009, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techguy512 View Post
Many of the inexpensive can taps (such as the one shown in the photo earlier in this thread) don't have valves at the can.

All I'm trying to say is that it is critical that air not be introduced into the system. Take any and all precautions and preventative measures.....
And it is a good suggestion. If you don't know for sure that you aren't putting air into the system, you probably are. And of course, any air in the system is really not good at all.

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