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  #16  
Old 07-07-2009, 01:48 AM
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Diesel911,

The strip fuse (I believe) is under the hood, on the firewall, to the left of that black plug in my second picture. It is a metal strip, enclosed in a black plastic, flip top box. Looked intact to me.

Went to get the battery checked out. They said the amps were about 600, should have been around 1000 amps. And 5 years old, blah, blah, talked me into buying a new one $125.

Am taking this time tonight to clean up the battery tray before I put in the new battery, including soaking the bolt plates in citric acid overnight. The climate here is the best for facilitating rust, corrosion, rot - I don't think there is any other place that can win the prize for that.

The rust treatment on the tray is supposed to "cure" overnight, then I will give it a few coats of paint.

Then we'll see if it was indeed the battery.

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1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178
207K

1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car)

2000 Ford Ranger, 187K

2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K

Last edited by mbzr4ever; 07-07-2009 at 02:11 AM.
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  #17  
Old 07-07-2009, 10:36 AM
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I would suggest any soaking be done in a baking soda solution instead of a different acid. Then wire brush clean.
Try a product called POR 15.
I recently installed a new battery myself near that cost.
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  #18  
Old 07-07-2009, 03:14 PM
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too many,
Good point about the baking soda, although I wire brushed first, citric acid soaked - the rust, corrosion is a nightmare. Feeble attempts to stop the inevitable, LOL!

Yes, I've heard about the POR 15. I tried to find some a few years back, but was unable to locate some readily. Maybe I'll skip the painting of the tray and try to find the POR 15 and save that project for another day (adds to the long "to-do" list for the 240D).

After all, this started out as a "simple bulb change" project!


Update:

Put a piece of thick plastic material under the new battery temporarily as I don't have time to paint the tray right now.

Tried the new battery, started up. (Kudos to you that knew).

However, the glow plug light and the light next to it (seat belt? Don't know pulled them both out of the panel) are not lighting up. Burnt out bulbs? Will try and pick up some new ones at NAPA, might as well change all the bulbs since I have this panel out.

Need to make sure: is the green wire the glow plug light? It is taped together with the black wire (seat belt?) and the clock (red).
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1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178
207K

1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car)

2000 Ford Ranger, 187K

2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K

Last edited by mbzr4ever; 07-07-2009 at 05:16 PM.
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  #19  
Old 07-07-2009, 11:07 PM
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Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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good to hear you are back up and running.

If you decide to go the POR route. strip the paint off the battery tray. soak it in their product called Metal ready. it will remove all the rust down to clean metal. then give it 2 coats of the black paint.

Unless you have a lot of painting to do with it, the smallest can they sell I think is 1/2 pint. the paint is moisture activated, so it it hard to keep the opened can around for very long. wear some blue mechanics gloves, as the stuff will have to ware off your hands.
be sure to place Seran Wrap between the lid and the can, or you will never get the lid off once it sets up.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #20  
Old 07-08-2009, 12:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbzr4ever View Post
Diesel911,

The strip fuse (I believe) is under the hood, on the firewall, to the left of that black plug in my second picture. It is a metal strip, enclosed in a black plastic, flip top box. Looked intact to me.

Went to get the battery checked out. They said the amps were about 600, should have been around 1000 amps. And 5 years old, blah, blah, talked me into buying a new one $125.

Am taking this time tonight to clean up the battery tray before I put in the new battery, including soaking the bolt plates in citric acid overnight. The climate here is the best for facilitating rust, corrosion, rot - I don't think there is any other place that can win the prize for that.

The rust treatment on the tray is supposed to "cure" overnight, then I will give it a few coats of paint.

Then we'll see if it was indeed the battery.
Below is what my Strip Fuse looked like about 3 weeks or more ago.
Attached Thumbnails
What is this unit and could this be my problem?-v.jpg  
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  #21  
Old 07-08-2009, 09:29 AM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbzr4ever View Post
too many,
Good point about the baking soda, although I wire brushed first, citric acid soaked - the rust, corrosion is a nightmare. Feeble attempts to stop the inevitable, LOL!

Yes, I've heard about the POR 15. I tried to find some a few years back, but was unable to locate some readily. Maybe I'll skip the painting of the tray and try to find the POR 15 and save that project for another day (adds to the long "to-do" list for the 240D).

After all, this started out as a "simple bulb change" project!


Update:

Put a piece of thick plastic material under the new battery temporarily as I don't have time to paint the tray right now.

Tried the new battery, started up. (Kudos to you that knew).

However, the glow plug light and the light next to it (seat belt? Don't know pulled them both out of the panel) are not lighting up. Burnt out bulbs? Will try and pick up some new ones at NAPA, might as well change all the bulbs since I have this panel out.

Need to make sure: is the green wire the glow plug light? It is taped together with the black wire (seat belt?) and the clock (red).
POR 15 may be available from a boating supply store. Nothing wrong with scraping away crud first, actually a better idea.
You may have burnt out bulbs.
Here are some pics from the FSM, the relay is #22.
Attached Thumbnails
What is this unit and could this be my problem?-img_1995.jpg   What is this unit and could this be my problem?-img_2001.jpg   What is this unit and could this be my problem?-img_1996.jpg  
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Last edited by toomany MBZ; 07-08-2009 at 09:34 AM.
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  #22  
Old 07-08-2009, 09:33 AM
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A few more.
Attached Thumbnails
What is this unit and could this be my problem?-img_1998.jpg   What is this unit and could this be my problem?-img_1999.jpg   What is this unit and could this be my problem?-img_2000.jpg  
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  #23  
Old 07-08-2009, 04:20 PM
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toomany_MBZ,
Thanks for the diagrams.
I found my W123 disks that are supposed to detail the wiring, but they are too blurry to make out the wiring colors.

Off to locate some replacement bulbs...
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1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178
207K

1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car)

2000 Ford Ranger, 187K

2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K
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  #24  
Old 07-09-2009, 01:12 AM
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charmalu and toomany_MBZ,

I will try the other marine store here for the POR 15; the one I usually go to did not carry the POR brand. I would sure like to try it, it seems to get very good reviews and our environment here would be the ultimate test.
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1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178
207K

1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car)

2000 Ford Ranger, 187K

2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K

Last edited by mbzr4ever; 07-09-2009 at 01:19 AM.
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  #25  
Old 07-09-2009, 01:18 AM
mbzr4ever's Avatar
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The new bulbs for the glow plug and seat belt are not working.
Checked the fuses again; all look ok.

I would be willing to pass (temporarily) on the glow plug and seat belt lights, but I don't know if the car will pass the safety inspection now that the instrument console has no working lights. And I would definitely not want to drive it at night.

Which is better for the battery terminals? Petroleum jelly or sil-glyd or something else?
__________________
1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178
207K

1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car)

2000 Ford Ranger, 187K

2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K

Last edited by mbzr4ever; 07-09-2009 at 07:15 PM.
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  #26  
Old 07-09-2009, 01:37 AM
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extend rust remover by the locktite company works pretty good ... it neutralizes the rust and then seals the metal ... great for tight places as it is in an aerosol can
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  #27  
Old 07-09-2009, 03:44 AM
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charmalu,

I noticed your post on another thread, I will check the ground as you described:

Quote:
The brown wires are the grond wire. behind the dash is where a clump of ground wires attach the the chassis.

there has also been discussions about where the tach, spedo and the oil/ temp/fuel clusters over lap on the back side of the instrument cluster, don`t get a good ground. they sort of overlap each other.

the round connector only goes on one way, no way to get it off. I did read where some one had the pins all come out and needed to know how to put back together.
lighting, electrical problems: dash, brake, temp
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1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178
207K

1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car)

2000 Ford Ranger, 187K

2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K
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  #28  
Old 07-09-2009, 04:24 AM
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FYI, the service manual pdfs have relatively low resolution preview images. They print clearer than they show up on screen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbzr4ever View Post
toomany_MBZ,
Thanks for the diagrams.
I found my W123 disks that are supposed to detail the wiring, but they are too blurry to make out the wiring colors.

Off to locate some replacement bulbs...
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  #29  
Old 07-09-2009, 08:35 AM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbzr4ever View Post
The new bulbs for the glow plug and seat belt are not working.
Checked the fuses again; all look ok.

I would be willing to pass (temporarily) on the glow plug and seat belt lights, but I don't know if the car will pass the safety inspection now that the instrument console has no working lights. And I would definitely not want to drive it at night.

Which is better for the battery terminals? Petroleum jelly or sly-glyde or something else?
Your dash lights are probably the rheostat behind the dash, turn the dimmer knob back and forth, they may light up.
Sorry to hear your new bulbs didn't correct your problem. May be a ground issue, does your battery light work?
Pull the fuses to determine if they're good, this style can look fine yet be worn out on the ends.
I used to use petroleum jelly, but don't use anything now, try dielectric grease.
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  #30  
Old 07-09-2009, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aersloat View Post
FYI, the service manual pdfs have relatively low resolution preview images. They print clearer than they show up on screen.
Didn't know that, thanks.

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1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178
207K

1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car)

2000 Ford Ranger, 187K

2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K
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