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#1
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Injector
How hard is it to pull an injector out? Is it as straight forward as it looks or are there some tricks to it? The reason I ask is that my #1 injector seems to be clogged.
While I'm at it, any ideas on how to get a stuck fuel filter loose?
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1985 300D Turbo ~225k 2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k 1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k |
#2
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Did you try diesel purge yet? That does a good job at unclogging injectors. Otherwise, you will need a 27mm socket and a long breaker bar. I had to literally hang from the bar and bounce with my entire body weight to get mine loose. I'd think that it might be easier with a warm engine.
Did you try an oil filter wrench to remove the fuel filter? I use the strap type wrench that is meant to be driven with a socket wrench. If you have a strong grip, you might also have luck with one of those rubber jar opening pads - great to have in the toolbox. |
#3
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i did my injectors and the pre chambers this summer on my 240.
as already said 27 mm and stand on the bar. i tried an overnight soaked with wd40 on the last one and it came out real easy. Last edited by whunter; 01-25-2008 at 12:13 AM. Reason: spelling |
#4
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Which hose on the fuel filter housing are you talking about. There are the "clear" ones and then there is the cloth covered ones, and the infamous "cigar hose". To remove the cloth covered one's you will probably need a knife to cut at it on the ends. As you probably already know, the more you pull on those hoses, the tighter they constrict.
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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi) 2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi) 2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi) MBCA member |
#5
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rick, wake up
Rick, you're trippin'. I don't believe "hose" was mentioned in this thread at all.
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#6
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removing injectors
When removing and reinstalling injectors, use new "heat shields"...these are actually little compressible washers that the injector seals against. Its a good idea to get a bunch of these to have on hand...buy from mail order (Mercedesshop) for cheap...dealer wants a lot for these (as with most things). Also, before installing, make sure that the injector hole is very clean....a little piece of sand will prevent good seal and will impair operation. Dont, put the little disks in backward....when removing injector see position of the ones in the car (convex side toward engine, flat side with compressible rim toward injector) The injectors need to be torqued properly (I forgot the torque setting...look in Haynes or other manual)
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1984 300TD Wagon, 407,800 mi (current daily driver) 1985 300DT Sedan, 330,000 mi (gone to that great autobahn in the sky) |
#7
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Oh, I forgot... for injector removal....I use the standard Sears Craftsman deep 27mm socket. When I originally looked for a socket for this purpose, I thought I needed the type of deep reach socket in which the 6 or 12 point facets (?) run up the full length of the socket, to make room for the fuel bypass nozzles. This type of socket is very hard to find...i.e. you would need to get from snap on, or Craftsman Professional line, or other source. But it turn out that the standard 27 mm, deep socket off the rack at sears works just fine!!
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1984 300TD Wagon, 407,800 mi (current daily driver) 1985 300DT Sedan, 330,000 mi (gone to that great autobahn in the sky) |
#8
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dzldog, you're right. I don't know where I came up with hose.
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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi) 2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi) 2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi) MBCA member |
#9
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I'm not too worried about getting the injector out now, the fuel filter has proven to be very stuborn however. It is almost impossible to get anything on it, too many hoses and tubes around it. Any other ideas would be welcome.
Also is it ok to replace just one injector or do they all need to be replaced at the same time even if they work ok?
__________________
1985 300D Turbo ~225k 2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k 1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k |
#10
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Used an impact wrench with a Sears 27mm deep to get my injectors out; no sweat. Didn't do any damage to the nozzles because I padded the inside of the socket with cloth.
If you are having problems with removing your primary (screw on canister type) fuel filter; did you loosen the top (center) bolt on the fuel filter housing. This releases the pressure on the filter and makes it really easy to turn and unscrew. Good luck. Adam |
#11
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That bolt is stuck too, I don't have a socket that size, putting that much pressure on an adjustable wrench is just going to round the bolt off. Guess I need to make a trip to the store to get a couple of sockets. Thanks for the advice.
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1985 300D Turbo ~225k 2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k 1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k |
#12
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Yes, it is really important to use the correct tools to fix; repair you MB, otherwise you will create more trouble, cost, and problems than not buying the tools are worth (consider time lost etc.). I bought a cheep allen head socket for my oil pan bolts, and it broke off in one of the bolts. Had to buy a $10 removal too and a $6 titanium drill bit to remove the head of the key. Learn from my mistakes. I would recomend Sears Craftsman tools as a minimum quality for tools. Please don't buy KMART or PepBoys brand tools as they will break and either hurt you or your precious MB. Otherwise have fun and GOOD LUCK!
Also a can of PB blaster (or similar good penetrating oil) really does wonders. Actually unseized a seized brake caliper that wouldn't move even with 300 psi! Adam |
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