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My 1st MB . . . A 82 240D Manual!
Howdy!
Well I bought one yesterday . . . was a bit hot in the Phoenix area yesterday! saw 114F on wifes Volvo going to look at the MB! I have a few questions: 1. The Drivers door does not latch if you slam it, but if you close it very lightly . . . it latches fine! Is this an adjustment issue? 2. Driving back with the A/C on Max, fan on III the engine temp was running about 110 - 112C at about 55mph, bumped up to 65mph, it crept up to 118C!:eek: Is this normal fro it being so hot outside? once I slowed down to about 45, engine would cool down to 105-110C 3. Every once in awhile I would see the seatbelt light flicker on . . . maybe 4 times in 169 mi . . . (BTW trip & odo read together, and are off from Volvo's trip by 2 mi for that trip home!) 4. This morning I went out, and now can't get into the trunk! The key turns but doesn't open . . . is that the vacuum system that leaked down? The pass fron door was also locked, which was unlocked last night if I remember . . . drivers door was unlocked . . . 5. Does the A/C "turn off" when the temp is met? I don't see a "switch" to turn it off or on, Is there no "vent" position? 6. I have most if not all the service records on this, it looks like in the area of 67k mi it had the timing chain replaced . . . is that normal? Also vacuum pump & oil pan . . . at same time! maybe a accident? Also noticed in one of the folders written "Spedo replaced at" but no number, maybe it was done, maybe not . . . It needs some clean up, and TLC, but is rust free, and runs good! More later . . . Oh, yeah here are a few pics . . . it was dark out this morning . . . http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s.../77300D044.jpg http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s.../77300D047.jpg http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s.../77300D048.jpg http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/img_3099.jpg http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/img_3092.jpg |
Congrats! Sounds like you've got a good project ahead of you :). If your trunk is anything like my SD, you can turn it about 1/4 CCW and push the latch in to open it. Mine is always locking due to the vacuum. Timing chain at 67k? Not normal, it should go much longer than that. One possibility is the vacuum pump crapped out and spit its internals into the engine and pan, and the timing chain was replaced as a precaution? Was the oil pump replaced at any point? I can't really think of anything that would just take out those three major components without damaging/having to replace anything else.
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congrats! very cool looking car, classy color, and a manual to boot!
now, you really need to diagnose that temp. issue!!!! that is not normal really shouldn't be up that high. when mine was running hot i just went all out and drained, flushed, replaced all rubber hoses, put in a new thermostat, and filled it up with the proper coolant. it sounds like you might need a new thermostat, i'd start there and see how that goes. good luck with your new projects! |
I'll have to pull the reciept, and scan it, almost look like there was another pump, and maybe a head . . . working on little sleep now . . . and gotta go to work!
Scuabble, you also never probably saw 114 in NY either . . . once it cooled down to 90 or below, it was alot lower! I've got some more testing to do, rad has yellow coolant in it, didn't use any oil in the 169 mi drive home . . . got up to 80 for about 30 sec before a hill!:D topped the hill at 70! |
Congrats, I love my 240D!
Try turning your key the other way in the trunk. I always forget which way is which, but one way locks it the other unlocks it, but you have to press the button with the key turned. Re: seatbelt light - our 300TD does that. Never really cared too much about it - always figured just needed a new seat belt indicator switch. You can buy one here at fastlane I think. 118*C does seem pretty hot - for comparison, I did a citric acid flush and replaced the thermostat and used the proper (not green) coolant. This weekend, we have had temps of about 104*F here in San Antonio. With the AC (134a so harder on the engine) on, and on the HW at 65-70 mph temp ran between 90 and just over 100, maybe 105. So it does seem like you should do some investigating of the cooling system. I love it when it hit 104*F, b/c I can tell my Canadian in-laws that we hit 40*C and it blows their minds (like when they tell me it is -20*F!). The point is that the operating temp is so far above the temps we live at that I don't really think it impacts the engine temp too much. Good luck! Love the wheel covers and the manual Climate control |
Glancing through the service records, there was a complaint of the seat belt light about 20 yrs ago!
120C is where the red starts on the gauge. I agree it should be lower . . . It does have the 134 . . .so is the "manual a/c controls" a "good thing" I like most things "manual (except labor!) I'll get some real pictures this afternoon after I leave school/work I tried to turn it both ways, but not turning it when pushed in . . . I just got my paperwork out of the glove box to call in my ins co. and the pass door was locked again . . . I have a vac tester I need to play with . . . |
Congrats on the car! The 240 Manual is one tough SOB. You should replace the thermostat and see if that helps. The thermostat is only $20 at most .com parts guys. Dieselgiant.com has a DIY article on doing the thermostat..check out dieselgiant.com
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If there was also an oil pump and head, I would suspect a broken timing chain or tensioner. A piece could have shot out and damaged the pan or pickup. I don't know if the vacuum pump attaches to the timing mechanism (all I've heard is don't break it or you'll end up with shards in the engine) so that could be unrelated. Seems odd to me that the timing chain would go that quickly - I think they usually go 150-200k before they are stretched enough to pose a risk.
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Congrats on the nice car, i too have a 81 and i used to have that same kenwood HU in it till i put a nice one in.
On the running hot problem MAKE sure your Aux fan is working that and a new thermostat. Seatbelt light there is a plug clip on a rail under the seat that may be lose, but you would have to pull the seat to tell. Do you have manual windows? I'm confused as to why your car has wood on the console, ash tray, and the upper switch panel i would think it would be black like mine? Good luck, Michael |
CONGRATS!
I honestly love driving my 240D 4speed more than my '95 E300 Diesel or '01 E320.:rolleyes: ya know, I have manual windows, no sunroof... but have the wood in some center places too, but not all of it. hmmm. :o hope you enjoy! Matt |
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probably will pull the seat, when I noodle it Yes manual windows, but elec sunroof. Mine is a 82, bought mid Dec 01 . . . in OR . . .still has 1st aid kit full of stuff & the cover is intact! The cig lighter outlet, does not seem to have anything to plug into in the dash, but I see a plug on the bottom of the ashtray . . . :rolleyes: |
Nice! I'm about ready to set my 300E on fire and just buy one of those!
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Both my MT and AT '82 240Ds have wood-trimmed ashtrays, and around the shifter and swiches. Unless something's really messed up, turn the trunk-key all the way to the left, then with the key still fully turned, push the button in to open the trunk. Happy Motoring, Mark |
I did finaly get the trunk open, it seems it could be simpler . . . but I just need to remember how I did it . . .
Here are some copies of the service records . . . what do you think happened? Notice at 28911 mi it needs a vacuum pump (or rebuild) http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...0D/28911RO.jpg At 67000 mi it has no power & smokes, it needs a timing chain . . . plus . . . http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/67000RO2.jpg Page 2 Is that a cylinder head for $980? Why would it need that? http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/67000RO1.jpg At 82153 mi it has a oil habit!:eek: (has not used oil yet, only about 175 mi . . .) http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...0D/82153RO.jpg |
Pictures & Questions!
OK, here are some better(?) pictures . . . (Before I clean it up, just the way I bought it, other than my 1st aid kit on the back seat & tool kit on the floor . . .
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...0D/82240D1.jpg http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...0D/82240D2.jpg http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...0D/82240D3.jpg http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...0D/82240D5.jpg http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...0D/82240D6.jpg http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...0D/82240D7.jpg http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...0D/82240D9.jpg http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...0D/82240D8.jpg Like the "cup holder" I was given!:eek: It does work, but . . . not quite classy!:confused: http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/82240D10.jpg The hood pad seems to just be a piece of foam glued on, is this right? The only rust I have found is on the bootom of the hood, above the battery area . . . http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/82240D15.jpg http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/82240D11.jpg http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/82240D12.jpg What style of glow plugs are these? http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/82240D17.jpg This is down in the pass side front of engine compartment . . . what is it, and why is one line unhooked? http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/82240D13.jpg Another view . . . http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/82240D14.jpg The drivers door "clicks" when you open or close it (besides does not close/latch if you close it too hard) The "RED" arrow moves back and forth in the space of the "BLUE" arrow . . . what is wrong, how do I fix this? http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...D/82240D19.jpg Today on my way home, I decided to get a 0-60 time . . . talk about PROFORMANCE! I did 0-60 in 11 seconds! Man I was flying!:D Oh yeah that was 60 kph!:P 0-60 mph was 26 seconds . . .:rolleyes: seems like it is lacking in this area! IIRC it should be 20-21 area? |
You have pencil (fast) plugs. The circled thing looks vacuum related. That's about all can say about it with certainty.
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Those are pencil-style glowplugs, not the loop ones.
The line on the passenger side appears to be EGR related. Something electronic is supposed to switch the vacuum to the EGR off and on. It's not important, as long as that open end there isn't leaking vacuum away (block it off, and find the other end that connected to it and make sure it's blocked off". |
Looks like a nice car. it looks to be a 237K mile car but a nice one. The timing chain at 60K is not at all normal, I cannot imagine how that could be.
Best of luck with it. |
Good looking buggy. Looks to be in decent shape.
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Here is more pics! They are small hard plastic lines . . . http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s.../82240D022.jpg One goes here: http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s.../82240D023.jpg Other goes here: http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s.../82240D024.jpg If this is EGR junk, I should just remove it all . . . I believe I have read that here somewhere . . . I'll have to search some . . . |
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Paid $1800 it was 169 mi one way . . . Rear diff has small seep . . . over all seems good to me, handles well . . . drivers seat needs some help . . . wash and wax should make it look great, vac and shampoo shoud do wonders for interior, dash has a few small cracks . . . windshield has a small chip/crack . . . |
Yeah, that vacuum thing that is disconnected is EGR related. If you don't have an emissions test there, you might consider finding a pre-82 240D and swapping both manifolds to rid yourself of all that crap. There is a butterfly valve in the middle of that mess that can't be doing good things.
Rick |
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I remember seeing a butterfly valve when I looked down into the intake when I pulled the air filter . . .is that what your talking about? |
My 81 is the spitting image of yours right down to the wood dash.
I had a bent steel wheel so I put a set of bundts on. The 4 speed is fun but still slow. Enjoy the simplicity |
Slow? maybe, but I got the same times as a few not-so-good porsche drivers in autocross in my 240. great car, wonderfully simple and reliable. You even have the crank windows! My biggest problem is I have about 100 times as much rust as you (25 years in salty new england)
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RE door - you need a new door check - you can buy one here they are pretty inexpensive and really easy to install. You have to remove the inside door panel to do it, but you can find great write-ups on removing them all over the place. I need a new one on the wagon - same problem.
Looks to me like the dark brown hard line goes in that soft rubber recepticle. Not 100% sure, but I think that is the same two lines (colors) on the EGR in the wagon. Many people disable the EGR, making sure to block the lines to seal the vacuum. Really nice looking car! Rear seats are in really nice condition! |
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That egr system does have a butterfly, take it out and the spaghetti on top of the cam cover too.
Plug off the two holes on the side just below the intake. This is my old 82 240, a friend has done the work, he drives it to this day. |
Yeah, I guess you could just gut the intake manifold to delete the butterfly valve you have too. The airflow might be better on the old style one, if you can find one.
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Made me think of the time we were in Esslinen (just outside of Stuttgart) where my Father was born and we went into a pizza place, and they college kid noticed our difficulty with German, and wanted to show off & practice his English! We ended up ordering a "Pepperoni" pizza, we went out side to eat it, and they had put on these really HOT long skinny peppers on it! Now that was "Peppier"!:D (no meat on it!) My 240D certianly is not the fastest car I have ever driven, but it is sufficient for what I need now! Auto tranny weighs more . . . auto tranny has some "slip" also . . . I like having the stick to move around, and complete control of when I shift. |
Nice one Shawn. Almost a twin of my 81 that I tragically had to get rid of a while ago except for more wood on yours. Mine had 379K when I picked it up and almost 400K on it when I had to dump it. Motor was still going great though. It was a fantastic car. Good luck with yours.
- Peter. |
The trunk locks on these cars can sometimes act like they have a mind of their own and lock you out at very inconvenient times. Its best to unlock the trunk by unlocking the doors. Avoid opening the trunk with the key and you'll have less problems, at least I haven't got locked out "since" doing it that way.:P
Nice car, happy motoring Oh, and be sure to check the tranny fluid, sometimes folks put 90 wt gear oil in there, probably not the case with yours but you want too be sure theres ATF (or "ATF" type) in there. |
Wouldn't that be "pepperier"?
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On the way up to get the registration transfered . . . after about 20 mi of 2 lane at 65 mph, we got to the interstate and I bumped it up to 75 w/AC at MAX the heat quickly climbed to 110-115C (was about 95-100C) I saw a MB 320 CLK (I think that was the letters) up ahead, and my wife had just said a few miles back "how fast will this car go anyways" so I put it to the floor . . . took me about a mile to get up to 85mph:eek: and then it was all it could do on the flat to maintain that, as we are pulling up beside the 320 I looked back and saw a small cloud of black soot! The temp was just about up to 120C so as I passed them I eased off and turned the AC off from Max, and set the fan down to II it soon cooled down. Running around town w/AC OFF it was about 80-85C. While we were in town for about 2 hrs a storm came through, and cooled things off, on the way home I did another 85mph run, but with the rain & mist from the tires, I could not see if I blew/burned out and carbon/soot . . .I then settled down to a leasurly 55mph the last 20 mi home, it stayed at about 85-90C. (w/o AC on) Filled it up with fuel . . . put in 6.93 gals drove 217.5 mi = 31.38 mpg . . . not so bad, probably a 1/4 of that was under 45mph, 1/4 at 55 mph, 1/4 at 65 mph, and the rest at 75 (except for that little Italian Tune Up;)) I am keeping track of it, and will see in the long run how it evens out . . . |
I know the manual in certain years said to use a light engine oil, but after reading several threads here and talking with the techs at MB of Reno, I use Dexron III ATF.
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- Peter. |
Nice Car !
To answer your AC question , the colored thumbwheel is the on/off switch , when it's rolled all the way to the white zone , the AC pump is cut off .
90W in the tranny will kill it . My 1st. Mercedes Diesel was a 1982 240D auto , white like yours , we still have it , well over 300,000 miles and it returns 34 MPG's @ 65 MPH across the desert , fully loaded with people and trunk , AC on MAX , yours will be the same or better . No need to take the fuel tank all apart to kill the fungus , just find a boating supply store and buy some STARTRON by Starbrite ~ it's in clear blue bottles , works a treat . Get or make some open ended 14MM wrenches and learn to adjust your valves then check 'em every other oil change . No need to remove the EGR , if it bothers you knowing it's there , push a BB into the primary vacuum hose on the top of the rockerbox , that'll kill it but still allow passing inspections when they turn up in a couple years . The plastic pipe slipped out of the moulded bent hose as the hose is stiff & hard ~ those and all the various rubber elbows on the breather tubes are cheap and easy to replace & then your oil seepages will pretty much stop . This car is dead simple and easy to repair , begin by cleaning it up and changing all the niggly little things , you're going to _LOVE_ it ~ in Pheonix there's terrific Pick-A-Part self service junkyards that'll yeild all the small things it might need . The trunk will give you zero troubles once you learn to always turn the key CCW as far as it'll go before pushing it in ~ all W-123's are like this . Replacing the various vacuum chambers (don't forget the filler flap one) will usually restore the central locking to perfect health so it'll hold vacuum for a week . |
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When your running at 65 w/AC on MAX what does your temps run on the engine? No problems yet with fuel, maybe the gauge to the fuel, but at the moment I have other things in front of that . . . Apparently the pass front door is the only door working on vacuum, does that make sense? yesterday I ended up locking the car, then I had trouble getting in the trunk while the doors were locked . . . I later did find that there is a vacuum line pluged . . . http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...40D/82240D.jpg One yellow line is hooked up, one is plugged . . . I plan to clean it up this Thursday after work, the school I work at has a preasure washer . . . then I have a 3 day weekend to play with it . . . I work 4-10hr days, and by the time I get home from horking 10 hrs out in 100 degrees I'm ready to take it easy:D I do plan on adjusting my own valves too!:D My AC recently got a new compresor & condenser and it has been converted to R134A . . . works, but not as quick to cool down as other veh I have had. Phoenix is about 200 mi away, not sure how much I will save driving 400 miles round trip for some used parts . . . but . . . that maybe the only way for me to get a pass side mirror . . .which I would really like to have:) How hard is that to add? |
Phoenix is about 200 mi away, not sure how much I will save driving 400 miles round trip for some used parts . . . but . . . that maybe the only way for me to get a pass side mirror . . .which I would really like to have:) How hard is that to add?
It is straightforward You have to remove the the inner cover which snaps on, then the outer cover can be removed. Make sure you get the new inside cover with a hole for the mirror adjuster to pass through. |
I'm a firm believer & user of the citric acid cooling system flush , my 240D runs 82° C unless I exceed 70 MPH or go to Death Valley then it runs between 90° C ~ 100° C , occasionally drifts up to the very edge of the red zone on the temp. gauge but as the owner's manual says , this is entirely normal , remember : Diesel LOVE heat , they thrive on it and produce more power & better fuel economy when they're on the boil .
Those yellow tubes unbder the hood ~ the one with the stripe is for the vacuum resivoir in the trunk , get a Mighty Vac tool from Harbor Fright , it'll be your new best freind . the cylindrical thing the yellow tubes are connected to , is a one way vacuum check valve , it's filthy and so is leaky if not dead , replace it ASAP , they're cheap . The trunk will easily open even when the central locking is in the lock mode , unless of course , some boob hooked up the vacuum chamber's hoses wrong like they did on our 240D..... lukily you use , Mercedes designed an easy to remove black square cover you can pop off to acess both the hoses and chamber in the trunk . Under the passenger's side carpet is a black plastic cover , pop it up to find the vacuum tube's "T" connecters that split the passengers side front door from the rear door , use the Mighty-Vac tool there to ascertain where specifically the leak is.... yellow tubes are locks , red stripe is the lock circuit , green stripe is the un-lock circuit . The shop manual is long out of print , often foundin thrift shops cheaply , or occasionaly Flea-Bay hceaply *if* it's been used , many more are held for high dollars by jerkoff " serious collectors " who never , ever read the damned thing........... :mad: The OM616 engine is a seperate manual . Luckily Mercedes put the whole thing on a CD-R and sells it for $29.00 at any dealer or OnLine , it uses the early version of Acrobat (3.0) , this is included on the disc so run that first or it may not open... Pass side mirror is a snap to install , be aware that Mercedes changed the base a little bit in 1982 so be sure you get the right one before you pay for it and get all the tiny screws and inside cover plate too . they pop up on Flea-Bay and the classified section here all the time , don't pay too much they're cheap if you but wait . |
I replaced the tranny fluid from the PO (red stuff - unsure provenance) with Mobil 1 oil as per owner's manual and have had no problems since - significantly reduced the slipping going into 2nd gear. I may try the MTF others have mentioned on other threads when I am due for a change in a year or three.
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I have a vacuum tester I got a Craftsman . . . now I got something to use it on! I just this morning ordered the cd manual from mbusa Should I wait to do the thermostat r/r until I flush it, or does that make any difference? I have a new thermostat ordered from Phil @ Fastlane . . . |
Careful with pressure washing. You may want to spritz some degreaser and agitate a bit and use your home hose.
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I don't have any suggestions for you sadly, but I just wanted to say:
Totally awesome car! I love it. Sometimes I grab my automatic in the hope I can change gears like you cool folks! Your fuel economy also makes me jealous. Enjoy the ride! |
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But my automatic is great for local errands, and I often manual-downshift this one when needed for that little extra 'poke' uphill. Plus, I've learned how to give the accelerator just the right touch to control some of the upshifts too. With a 5-speed 300TD and a manual 240D, I really should be thinking about selling the automatic 240D, but it was my first diesel and I did bring this car back from 'total junker' status, so it's going to be hard to part with her. Happy Motoring, Mark |
My original plan was spray it w/simple green than drive it half a mile to car wash . . . but I just discovered we have a presure washer here at school . . . what do you think is best . . .?
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If I recall the 5W30 means that when oil is at ambient temps, (cold) it is a 5wt oil, and when it is in use and warmed up, that it would be a 30wt oil viscosity wise anyways . . . Do I have this right? So if I put in 5W30 when it was cold it would act like 5wt oil WOULD THIS BE TOO THIN? and once it is warmed up it would act like I had 30wt oil in it, WOULD THAT BE TO THICK? I would prefer to have synthetic oil in it . . . Owners manual calls for 10W20 or 20W . . . but I can't find that in synthetic . . . |
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