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  #1  
Old 07-14-2009, 09:43 AM
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Location: Greensboro, NC
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Removing master cylinder

So I am removing the torsion bar, and in that process have to remove the master cylinder. I am now removing the nuts that hold it to the frame, but can only get to 2 of them easily. I've looked at directions and they don't tell me to remove anything else, but it seems as though there are a lot of little gadgets in my way. This is a 1982 300D. Any tips or ideas?

I've searched the forums, but couldn't find any help with this.


Last edited by bbjornson; 07-14-2009 at 10:09 AM.
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  #2  
Old 07-14-2009, 11:21 AM
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Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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Well your title is removing the mater cylinder. so it is 2 nuts and 3 brake lines.

If you need to remove the booster also to get to the tortion bar under or behind it. there are 4 nuts holding it on.

remove the large vac line mounted to the booster, 19mm and a 17mm/19mm on the other end, careful not to snapp off one of the platic nipples. that thing is a $50 part or so.

remove the panel under the dash. pop out the 3 or 4 plastic screw covers, remove the screws. there might be 2 ( one on ea side) grey fastners with a screw head, give them a 1/2 turn and they pull out.
remove panel.

have to remove the safety pin and slide out the pin that holds the brake peddle to the brake booster. remove the 4 nuts that mount the peddle assembly to the firewall. these are the nuts that also mount the booster.
remove booster.

from there you are on your own, haven`t gone into it that far (YET).

charlie

Maybe I shouldn`t say on your own, a more experienced member should jump in here with add knowledge
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #3  
Old 07-14-2009, 11:22 AM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
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These pics are from the FSM.
Attached Thumbnails
Removing master cylinder-img_2062.jpg   Removing master cylinder-img_2063.jpg   Removing master cylinder-img_2064.jpg  
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83 SD

84 CD
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  #4  
Old 07-14-2009, 11:31 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Greensboro, NC
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Thank you guys for the help, and yes I meant brake booster. It's those four nuts that I can't seem to get to though. I only have been able to remove 2 of them, while the other two are very difficult to get to due to all the wiring in that area.
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  #5  
Old 07-14-2009, 04:59 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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The top left nut was the PITA for me. when I replaced everything, I used some washers for spacers on the top left one, then I could tighten it down.

this must be put together at the factory before the AC/Heating unit and dash are installed.

Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #6  
Old 07-14-2009, 05:53 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 69
Well I finally got it off. I had to remove a bolt that was holding some large rectangular unit onto there, essentially covering that last bolt.

Now onto the torsion bar.... this thing is a big PITA to get out.

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