mystery 617: "Original Mercedes-Benz Tauschaggregat" = Replacement motor? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

compress ignite · #16 03-28-2010, 12:41 AM

Has it ,these naked blocks are sitting out in a field near Stuttgart awaiting need.
By naked ,I reference: No Sleves,No Cranks,No Nothing...Aren't even Bored Yet.

pwogaman · #17 03-28-2010, 01:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compress ignite

Has it ,these naked blocks are sitting out in a field near Stuttgart awaiting need.
By naked ,I reference: No Sleves,No Cranks,No Nothing...Aren't even Bored Yet.

Well they must be bored if they're just sitting around in some field.

benzkat · #18 03-28-2010, 08:30 AM

I do not know the details on Benz factory replacement motors. I have the repair invoice for this one and all the numbers match. It's a 37K motor that was parked in 2003 until now. I have a nice 100K+ motor from an 83 300D I was going to use but I couldn't pass this one up. I'm not sure I would even consider it broke in yet. As much as I drive that car, this should outlast me!

compu_85 · #19 03-28-2010, 09:29 AM

From what I've seen on my car the crate motors give you all the internals, the turbo, the IP, and nothing else. (IE no belt tensioner, fan, compressor, etc).

-Jason

DeliveryValve · #20 03-28-2010, 09:06 PM

I took these shots a few months ago in my local yard. This was found in a 1979 300TD. I was going to pull the motor but by the time I got back, it was already crushed.

The interesting thing is it does not have a "Bm" field as the other post have shown. Also the printed "80" was xx out and "88" was stamped above it.

Teil-Nr: 6170103802 (88)
Aggregat Nr: 644517

Mark DiSilvestro · #21 06-07-2011, 02:24 AM

Well, today I was installing a replacement vacuum-pump on my '82 240d, when I spotted this odd 'Original Mercedes-Benz Tauscheggredat' ID tag rivetted to the front of my engine-block. So my search led me here. Perhaps this explains, in addition to the relatively solid body, why this 240D runs & drives so well. Especially compared to some of the rusty, tired diesels I've owned.
If I can read the numbers on the tag, would the Classic Center be able to tell me when this engine was furnihed, or would I need to contact Mercedes directly?

Happy Motoring, Mark

compress ignite · #22 06-07-2011, 04:24 AM

They'll have records of the ambient Temperature and Barometric readings the
Day the Re-Man was produced.

Theseus · #23 07-22-2021, 10:09 AM

Does anyone know about casting ridge on the valve cover identifying the motor as rebuilt by the factory? My motor has a ridge on the valve cover, but don't see a tag.

t walgamuth · #24 07-22-2021, 11:38 AM

The valve cover might have been changed. That is why they stamp the block with the information.

martureo · #25 07-22-2021, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Theseus

Does anyone know about casting ridge on the valve cover identifying the motor as rebuilt by the factory? My motor has a ridge on the valve cover, but don't see a tag.

I have a factory rebuilt SD motor with the different valve cover. It threw me as I had no idea why they'd do it.

Theseus · #26 07-22-2021, 02:16 PM

Did it have a tag?

t walgamuth · #27 07-22-2021, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martureo

I have a factory rebuilt SD motor with the different valve cover. It threw me as I had no idea why they'd do it.

Could be a replacement valve cover made in India.....not meaning that as a negative at all.

You guys who got these old factory replacement motors got really lucky!

martureo · #28 07-23-2021, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Theseus

Did it have a tag?

Yup.

Here's a quick shot of the valve cover (sorry, still in storage and a bit dirty).

You can see that there's a casting ridge above the injector recesses. My other valve covers don't have this. The other oddity is that there are bosses/bumps along the centerline of the top surface. You can see two of them in this shot. One can be seen to the left of the large star, and the other to the left of the 3/2 valve cover/ below the shift linkage.

fauxwiehl · #29 04-23-2022, 12:15 PM

Keeping this alive. I'm trying to sort out what these ridged valve covers mean. How aure are we. Kent posted MS video about them. There was no mention of the tag on the block, and I'm curious how probable(known?) it is for this cover to be installed on a rebuild without the tag. It's possible I just haven't found it yet and may be under some crud on the block from valve cover seepage.
I have an 85 engine that I pulled in amazing shape with that cover. That engine is tight. The top end shows no wear, blew no smoke, has minimal chain wear, and the intermediate shaft bushing has zero discernable play. Also, I just realized the 84 that I am parting out(rear end collision) has the same cover, and is nearly identical shape. I'll be doing compression tests soon to paint a more clear bill of health, but the discovery of a second engine in my possession is a very high percentage given I've "only" owned 9 W123's.
I'm curious if the speculation on the covers is well founded. So far I have only this thread and that video above to base the idea of the cover being MB Factory Rebuilt(Exchanged?) specific.
So, anyone else have better idea? Thanks for the help!

Theseus · #30 04-26-2022, 10:34 AM

The valve cover of my engine has a ridge. It passed a leak down test with excellent results for a 188k car. I do not yet know how many miles a rebuilt engine has. I am trying to figure out what is causing the rough idle.

I have found the following:

- Engine timing off 8 degrees, needs a new timing chain.
- Tensioner rail was misaligned, appeared to be an MB OEM part.
- Tensioner needs replcement, missing o-ring
- Crank seal leaking, needs replacement.
- Crank Balancer had markings, may have been removed before.
- Rubber parts deteriorate.
- Injection pump may have been original - have documented issues with it.
- PO installed new injectors.

The valve cover should at least be removed for a rebuilt engine, and the timing chain stretch should be measured along with a leakdown and compression test. I would assume that anything rubber or plastic needs to be replaced since it is 40 years old. Eventually, as I am doing now, you will find yourself replacing components since you have the parts apart.