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#1
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124 Propeller shaft woes
Car is 1994 E 300 D wagon.
Can there be something seriously wrong with the propeller shaft even though there are no vibrations in the driveline? In the search for an unpleasant driveline noise I was under the car today. When twisting and turning the propeller shaft there is some clicking noises and play in the splines under the big nut. The big nut seems to be fastened, but I did not have the tools required to properly check it. The shaft inside the center support can be moved about 1/2" either way. The center support, bearing and front flex disk were installed brand new by the Mercedes workshop last july. Could they have done something wrong? There are no vibrations in the car, but a distinctive noise from about 25 mph. I can hear it all the way until the wind noise gets louder. The noise disappears when the throttle is released. This can of course be the differential - noise not unlike a bad MB diff - but everything was totally quiet before and after the propeller shaft was serviced. Differential oil also new in this service. Car has done only 7.500 miles since this. The noise came creeping during the winter and has become worse and worse during the spring and summer :-( Suppose I finally end up with a brand new driveline to keep the brilliant car running for another 15 years- but thanks in advance for any advice! |
#2
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If the 46mm nut is tightened properly the shaft cannot move. Also, it shouldn't move anyways unless the flex disc bolts are loose! I'd double check everything under there....and get that big nut tightened up!
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#3
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My thought is that if you get the tool to remove the "Big Nut" you ought to remove it and see if the splines (or what ever is in there) are chewed up; and decide what to do from there.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#4
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If you buy the actual 46mm wrench, it is about $27 at napa....and is around 2 feet long/7-8lbs or so. Its quite a tool. The guys at the store thought I was a weirdo.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#5
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__________________
Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#6
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Does anyone as any picture of the bolt that need to be tight, the 46 mm, or its location? My shaft had a wee play awhile ago too, we thought it was the UJ in the middle but couldn't be really sure?
Cheers. Olivier
__________________
E300TD year 2000. RUSTY SOLD cost a fortune to maintain on the road but run well on WVO Second Merc died due to corrosion ( NOT rust) How can mercedes get away with that for so long? Third lasted a month then went away... Fourth now... Corroded too... |
#7
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I have used Channel lock pliers to remove the nut. It isn`t on all that tight.
Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#8
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Hi Charlie.
Where is the bolt? When I went ubder the car the propshaft was only held by the donut's bold. Which one is the 46mm? Cheers. Olivier
__________________
E300TD year 2000. RUSTY SOLD cost a fortune to maintain on the road but run well on WVO Second Merc died due to corrosion ( NOT rust) How can mercedes get away with that for so long? Third lasted a month then went away... Fourth now... Corroded too... |
#9
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Got the big nut tightened today.
Reduced the clicking noises and play considerably. According to the workshop there can be SOME play here. But the driveline noise is still there. It has to be the differential. Olivier, the 46mm nut is marked 4 her: http://www.driveshafts.com/pages/picture_EV.html |
#10
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Well, I guess they were right. If you must press the issue.
Even weirder is that I carry it in my car alongside the seat! Self defense!
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#11
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Quote:
Never thought of keeping it in the car just in case! |
#12
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Quote:
All the best. Olivier
__________________
E300TD year 2000. RUSTY SOLD cost a fortune to maintain on the road but run well on WVO Second Merc died due to corrosion ( NOT rust) How can mercedes get away with that for so long? Third lasted a month then went away... Fourth now... Corroded too... |
#13
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This case is closed
This week I got a factory overhauled differential installed. It is the most expensive and most rewarding repair I have ever done to the car. It feels like a brand new car now, absolute silence at all speeds and conditions |
#14
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Good for you that you have corrected the problem, I was thinking it may have been a bad rear wheel bearing, as I went thru the same thing, pulling the drive line completely to no avail... Later replaced the wheel bearing Voila..
What did the factory overhauled diff set you back ?
__________________
Gary Experience is something you get, Just after you needed it.... '99 E300 295K, '83 300D 220K, '75 240D 185K sold '80 MCI Bus Conv DD 6V92TA, w/4 cyl. Kubota diesel GenSet 12.5KW |
#15
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Quote:
But the noise on the 124 could be "controlled" by the acellerator pedal, couldn't do that when the wheel bearing failed. My car has ASD so the differential was as expensive as it could get. 124 350 5814 set me back $3.800 (23.000 NOK). Changed the differential mounts also (not a nice job on the 124) so the total with labour was $4.500 (27.000 NOK). Norway is a HIGH cost country, we are used to high prices... Some friends say "I would never pay that much to keep an old car like that on the road", but these are people that pays $1.250 for a normal service (plug in the laptop, check for faultcodes, check the oil, look at the brakepads, stamp the servicebook) on their 2 year old Toyotas/Mazdas/Chryslers/Huiundays/VWs. I do almost everything myself on the old Mercedes and plan to keep this car on the road for as long as I can so after all I feel good |
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