AC Repair - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

leathermang · #16 07-30-2009, 12:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 47dodge

Has anyone tryed "enviro-safe R-12a" It is a hydrocarbon refridgerant. I am going to try it. My system is empty, no idea what was in it. So flushing, and a new compressor, filter dryer, are in order anyway. The old compressor is locked up. Does anyone know which relay is for the compressor clutch? It is stuck in the on position. Or at least appears to be, as there is power to the clutch at all times.

Be sure to check and see if it is legal in your state....
Good Luck.

JimmyL · #17 07-30-2009, 01:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 47dodge

Has anyone tryed "enviro-safe R-12a" It is a hydrocarbon refridgerant. I am going to try it. My system is empty, no idea what was in it. So flushing, and a new compressor, filter dryer, are in order anyway. The old compressor is locked up. Does anyone know which relay is for the compressor clutch? It is stuck in the on position. Or at least appears to be, as there is power to the clutch at all times.

I'm running Envirosafe in my 240D and it works just fine. Better than R134a without a doubt. Probably not quite as good as R12, but the gap between Envirosafe and R12 is smaller than the gap from R134a to Envirosafe.
If you're going to redo everything I'd probably find some R12. I was just doing a quickie conversion on the 240D because the R134a wasn't worth using.

alabbasi · #18 07-30-2009, 01:15 AM

R12 is no longer as expensive as one would think. I sold a bunch recently for $20 can (all sold out now). That's about twice the price of R134 cans which is well worth it considering the hassle you can run into with a converted system.

If your going to stick anything other then R12 or R134 into your system. Please label it so that you do not contaminate stock in a recovery tank if you ever need to recover the system.

Most A/C shops will not touch a system unless it's R12 or R134 for that reason.

#19 07-30-2009, 07:58 AM

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

47dodge · #20 07-30-2009, 08:07 AM

Yes will label. Hopefully never go to an ac shop again. last time did it for me. 3 hours labor charge, and the truck was only in the shop one hour. had to pay to get my truck back. I'm a certified diesel mechanic, so paying someone to fix something just does not sit well with me.

For the original poster as to wether to replace the compressor, i would take it off and turn it slowly by hand. It should be smooth, and you should here each cylinder bubble a bit(assuming it has oil in it). if it is not smooth, and if needed add oil to the ports and you still do not get any bubbleing then replace. If it checks out ok, then most likey you are fine to re-oil and reinstall. I would also flush it a bit just in case any crud got in it.

I am a newbee at air conditioning but at leat this sounds reasonable to me.

leathermang · #21 07-30-2009, 02:28 PM

If you go to the trouble of taking the compressor off the car...
I think the MB factory shop manual on AC shows that you can hook it up to the usual gauges and an electric motor in a makeshift holder and actually test it....

dagObx · #22 08-13-2009, 09:01 PM

Thanks, 47Dodge, for the reply. I don't know what compressor is on the car, it's buried under other stuff. Will have to get it in the air to check it out. There have been no problems here-to-fore with it, so unless otherwise advised, I am just going to flush it with mineral oil & let it go to it.

Leathermag: Many thanks for your good info. Unfortunately, out here in the boonies where I am there are is no such equipment available. Everyone out here is a shade-tree.

leathermang · #23 08-13-2009, 10:59 PM

I was only referring to the standard gauges to hook up to the compressor..
and a few nails and boards to clamp it and an electric motor to test run it...
pretty basic and not expensive...... If your compressor is shot and you go to the trouble and expense of reinstalling it and have to take it back off to put a good one on there... then that IS expensive....

dagObx · #24 08-13-2009, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

I was only referring to the standard gauges to hook up to the compressor..
and a few nails and boards to clamp it and an electric motor to test run it...
pretty basic and not expensive...... If your compressor is shot and you go to the trouble and expense of reinstalling it and have to take it back off to put a good one on there... then that IS expensive....

Thanks again for your timely input. I see what you are saying about the holder & electric motor. Hopefully I won't need to do that, but it certainly is a good option.

While I have you here, I am not going to replace the expansion valve. Do you think I can get by without doing that? I know that the X-valve is only a $35 or so, but my problem is the massive amount of $$ I have in other parts & the fact that I am currently unemployed. It would be nice to eat occasionally

Note that the system was funtioning fairly well, even with the 134a in it.